PLEASE HELP! TIMING QUESTION
02-02-2006, 12:18 PM
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PLEASE HELP! TIMING QUESTION
Hey I had to take out my transmission to replace the torque converter seal and in doing so I was going to also replace rear main seal and timing etc. Anyhow I ended up taking off my flywheel and I am still kinda figuring out how timing works and everything. My question is, should I have marked where the fly wheel was positioned when I took it off? Can I just put it back on in any position? I think I have screwed up big time I dont want to bend any valves or anything? I am also trying to get off front crank pully. Is it ok for the crank to spin as long as the cam is spinning with it? I amn really confused at this point and I hope Im not damaging my car. But I dont think that would happen til it starts. I thinbk I have gotten in over my head. When I get the transmission back in should I make sure the pips are aligned in the housing? Then the crank and cam pips, then move distributor line to the mark? Does that sound right? Please let me know I am doing this today. Thanks guys! You are wonderful and I appreciate your help.
02-02-2006, 12:49 PM
#2
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Flywheel should only go on one way
The bolt holes are spaced so that the flywheel goes on one way, IIRC. I had the same question when I installed a flywheel.
As for the crank pully, you can move it as long as the timing belt is ON. I wouldnt spin the crank with the head installed and timing belt OFF. You are going to have to figure out how to hold the crank pully in one spot without spinning the motor so you can break loose the crank bolt.
As for the crank pully, you can move it as long as the timing belt is ON. I wouldnt spin the crank with the head installed and timing belt OFF. You are going to have to figure out how to hold the crank pully in one spot without spinning the motor so you can break loose the crank bolt.
02-02-2006, 03:26 PM
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Ok, So....
When I install the flywheel back on, do I need to have my crank and cam pips lined up then put the flywheel on so that the reference mark lines up with the mark on the houseing then just turn distributor to line up with its mark. Right?
02-02-2006, 07:11 PM
#4
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Re: PLEASE HELP! TIMING QUESTION
Good luck removing the nut on the frong crank pulley (AKA: Vibration Damper) without the two special tools from Zelenda. One holds the pully firm(tool 2084) and the other attaches to a 3/4" breaker bar(tool 2079) to give additional leverage to break the nut free as it is torqued down to 258 ft lbs. using the #2079 tool. Without that tool, the torque is way beyond most hand torque wrenches. I suggest marking that nut as a reference to get the torque close if you don't have a 3/4" drive torque wrench.
The flywheel is not indexed. It's position is not relevant on the crankshaft if the bolt pattern is not offset. I replaced a clutch on my old '87 5000CS quattro and do not recall any problem with the flywheel.
The front vibration damper (crank pulley) was impossible to remove (for me) without those two tools. The money I saved by buying those tools and not paying a dealer to replace my bad water pump more than paid for those tools. That pulley is keyed. There is no way you can put it on wrong. Of course, timing belt placement is critical. Both the vibration damper and the camshaft pulley have subtle markings used to align the two pulleys when installing the timing belt. I had over 200,000 miles on my timing belt before replacing it. I only replaced it because I had everything open and off and the new belyt was under $20. The original belt looked fine to me.
The flywheel is not indexed. It's position is not relevant on the crankshaft if the bolt pattern is not offset. I replaced a clutch on my old '87 5000CS quattro and do not recall any problem with the flywheel.
The front vibration damper (crank pulley) was impossible to remove (for me) without those two tools. The money I saved by buying those tools and not paying a dealer to replace my bad water pump more than paid for those tools. That pulley is keyed. There is no way you can put it on wrong. Of course, timing belt placement is critical. Both the vibration damper and the camshaft pulley have subtle markings used to align the two pulleys when installing the timing belt. I had over 200,000 miles on my timing belt before replacing it. I only replaced it because I had everything open and off and the new belyt was under $20. The original belt looked fine to me.
02-02-2006, 09:03 PM
#5
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Since the flywheel only goes on one way...
There is really no way you can screw up the timing marks 
. Try putting the flywheel on a few different ways (the holes are spaced so that it only goes on ONE way).
. Try putting the flywheel on a few different ways (the holes are spaced so that it only goes on ONE way).
02-03-2006, 04:50 AM
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The flywheel bolts is offset and only allows the flywheel
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36396/audi_flywheel.jpg"></center><p>
to go on one way. The flywheel on the 10v turbo is index in that there is a pin pressed into it for the crank position sensor.
to go on one way. The flywheel on the 10v turbo is index in that there is a pin pressed into it for the crank position sensor.
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02-04-2006, 01:42 PM
#9
Easy to remove the bolt...
Use a large Johnson bar and a length of pipe. Be sure to have the socket seated well on the nut. Now it the starter switch a couple of times. Let the starter torque do it for you. Unfortunately you can't do thiws to reinstall it. With some effort you will get it tight enough to drive to a mechanic with the impact gun afterwards.