bleezy123

Sweet warming her up now and yeah sure will

bleezy123

Bypass what.. and exactly I'll get it to straight coolant pouring out bleeder and running great until it builds air again. Bleeding from 1st bleeder now

bleezy123

[QUOTE=Rusty Spokes;24823262]The heater core (if the 90 is like a Cabriolet) is always "ON" and the flaps in the heater box deflect air to or around the heater core..so you still need to bleed the system "by the book" or you will have an air bubble. The block on the V6 will hold some air too till the thermostat opens..

And Grillage is correct..you need to wait till the bleeder gets warm. I think it is a flat blade screw-driver fitting. There are some YouTube videos on bleeding that may be helpful. Jacking up one side of the car will not help bleed the system.

Another problem is the thermo-switch for the radiator fans. Is it original and working? If any doubt..replace it. Use a 85/93 deg Celsius switch as the switch is on the cold side of the radiator. Part number 251959481K..check to be sure the spec you get is 85/93*C or 87/93*C. If you need help testing..let us know.

Yes and jacking up the front end has always helped me. It helps with circulating the coolant components at the highest point " my bypassed core" and getting the radiator higher as well.. so I don't really see how this would " not pertain". Its been bled like any other should just didn't know about the 1st bleeder. I flushed the coolant system before finishing mech. Parts. Two temp switches and sensors were replaced as well... been a while, and that is the new thermostat I have... there has been no mud in it, but probably going to replace it before I do the heater core.. was wondering if there was any special "qwerk", these cars have many.
Hopefully just air pocket to 1st bleeder,
Thank you

varia

ive had tons of different audi, some was easier to bleed then the other.
vacuum bleeder is the key.
like this
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...l&tag=fordt-20

works like this:

bleezy123

Amazing!!! Yes this car sux for me to do at least that would have been saving me hours! I know what I want for my birthday haha

bleezy123

So far no luck, 1st bleeder the 5mm Allen opened great. Did good for a bit but doing terrible again .. I got a vacuum bleeder and coolant test/fill kit off the snap on truck. I'm going to use it next weekend and check in on the status. If all fails time for a new radiator as everything else is replaced and is testing good.
Doing another flush at the moment! Wish me luck, and
Thanks everyone

bleezy123

Also I'm doing upper and lower oil pan gaskets next week and bolts are compromised (rust and corrosion). Need new bolts as well f anyone has a better site then me for parts for this friggin thing!

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

do a compression test. you are a brave man for planning on doing upper and lower oil pan gaskets in 2 days. you have to remove the subframe to get the upper off. as for hardware, i went to ACE hardware ans just got new metric bolts with washers.

kennedyanyanwu

well... while all this has been going on. have u noticed any white smoke from her exhaust. that engine is a bitch to bleed for sure but. look into performing a block test.
if you developed a leak initially and she ran hot for a moment hence the repaires then u might b having head gasket issues. looks like you've done enough to bleed the system already.

bleezy123

Yeah it sucked bad lol. But everything sucks to work on this car. And thanks guys I'm going to do a comp. Test and vac. Pressure test. No white smoke but going uphill, I go from 7k to 10kft in elevation everyday for work she overheats quick so pretty sure it is but will test. If so I'm done working on this car, already replaced too much she's going off the mountain :/