thunderbolt1

I recently replaced the ECT sensor and my Cabriolet still stalls out when the coolant temperature gets about one quarter of the gauge. I have also replaced the coolant fan sensor and the radiator. What else should I try?

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

sounds like you got problems with engine internals not electrics

Rusty Spokes

Thunderbolt..it would be helpful if you could run the diagnostics with a VCDS. If there are no buddies in town with a VCDS or VagCom or a reliable shop that works on older VW/Audi cars then get the VCDS connector and VCDS lite deal from RossTech. There are a number of sensors that can cause problems. You need to know.

In the meantime, do check for any air leaks. A vacuum leak into the intake manifold will lean out the fuel mixture when the engine warms up.

Using an ohm meter, check the resistance of the crank position sensor and speed sensor. They should be about 1k ohms hot or cold.

Fuel volume and pressures? Do check these. A defective fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump that is failing when warm or plugged fuel filter will cause you fits.

Vacuum leaks and fuel pressure/quantity are not reported on the VCDS directly.

Check your spark plugs and see if they are worn out, black and wet or dry and white.

I presume your ECT sensor was one like this?:


Was it "out of spec"?

Rusty Spokes

And however unlikely as a problem..what condition is the air filter?

thunderbolt1

No the relay was a three prong connection. When I got the part from the parts store they gave me the one you posted but it was the wrong part for my Cabriolet. This Car is a 1/2 year car. They found the right one in a different book. It still drives me crazy

thunderbolt1

Every time the engine cools down it runs fine.

thunderbolt1

The air filter looks good

Rusty Spokes

I'm sure you installed the F76 sensor for the gauge..that is a three prong sensor. It only works the temp gauge and overheat warning lamp.



The sensor for the ECU is G62. Should look like the sensor in my earlier post.




The G62 can be tested with an ohm meter. About 2000 ohms at room temp. About 350/250 ohms at running temp.



Double check your ohm readings on the G62. It is hard to get back there and test. I will use a plug connector salvaged from the bone-yard with wires that fits the G62 and disconnect the existing wiring harness and plug in the test bone-yard connector then test the ohms.

The ECU will use other information if the G62 fails (like the outside air temps) so the engine will run, usually with a check engine light on..so I don't know if that is your problem.

thunderbolt1

Thanks, I'll try to find it.

hubturn

A few years back, didn't somebody have a similar problem that turned out to be plugged up catalytic converters?