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Hey Group, I have a 97 Cabriolet with a blown out subframe bushing. I have the front and rear bushings on order as well as the control arm bushings. The problem I am having is locating new bolts for the job. I have looked online every place I can think of to find them with no luck. I have a source for grade 10 bolts (fastenal) but need the specs. If you could help me I would be very grateful, seems these are like finding chicken lips.
The four bolts that hold the sub-frame are part number N90580801
About $4.50 each from VW
The four bolts that hold the "A" arms are part number N90489301 at about $4.50 each too..available from VW
The four nuts for the "A" arm bolts are part number N0211955 and are about $1.50 each.
The hardware is really not available at fastener stores..just a different design.
Follow the book as the sub-frame bolts MIGHT BE torque to yield..check and see.
The "A" arm bolts are tightened when the front wheels are loaded with the weight of the car on them..must do this or you will tear the rubber bushings when you get back on the road.
WOW You just made my day! I couldn't even get this information from the dealership. I would prefer to replace these bolts with grade 10 bolts as I don't like torque to yield. I guess I am "old school" but grade 10 just seems more trust worthy to me, I can be persuaded by someone with knowledge. Thank you so much , it gives me a way to find the size and length so that I can get the grade 10'S
The OEM bolts are very very good...and I doubt you can just replace them with standard grade 10 hardware. You notice the plug end with the step? That keeps you from stripping out the threads in the frame when you tighten the subframe..and the torque to yield keeps the bolts from falling out or becoming loose. It is a good practice to replace the hardware with OEM..no issues.
on a-arm im running grade 10 bolts with washers and locknuts, on subframe however, i would recommend OEM bolts and do the torque to yield thing if you're using OEM equivalent subframe mounts.
Thank you both for responding, I now have all the information I need to proceed. I am going to go with Grade 10 on the A-Arms and torque to yield on the subframe seems to make the most sense. I think I have found a new home, after a few years of Audiforums.com. The sight is full of browsers and very few replies unlike this site there are very few people that either know or are willing to share information.
Just finished the job and although it was a PITA it turned out great. All the clunking and other nasty sounds are gone, the car is handling great. Thanks for the info!!!
if you think Grade 10 worked out fine on the A-arms, I will replace with such if necessary on my own ride.
So, AD, since you just did this job... how did you torque down the A-Arm bolts? People always say 'to be done under full load' but you can't get to the bolts with the car on the ground. I simulate this with a jack under the hub. Just wondering what others do.
Hey Euro I am very happy with the grade 10's I backed those up with grade 10 nylocks and will replace them each time. I lifted my car and sat it on a set of ramps, it gave me all the room I needed to get the torque done. The front of the car won't clear the ramps so I had to lift it back up and remove them when finished.I couldn't be happier with the outcome, the front is tight and the grade 10's are more than capable of handling the load.
03-25-2017, 02:52 AM
Subframe and control arm bolts
