royemello

i have a 95 , 90 2.8.
cam seals are leaking need to replace, is there special tools to hold the cams in place when i remove the sprokets ?
please any help

maineman

you understand some of it.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=N1A1005

grillage

This should give you some info too....

http://12v.org/maintenance/index.php?section=ht

royemello

i see the rental kit- thanks.
1 ?, cams have NO key ways ? so when i pull off the cam sprokets- the cams can rotate - even a sm bit ? i dont see any cam shaft holding tools. how do i make sure cams are extally on the spot of allingment ?
i get it about , locking the crank in place, makeing sure all is at tdc.
but with out any key ways, how the heck do i know if cams have moved ?
it appears that the long bar holds sprokets, but when removed what holds the cams ?
i have the ebahn cd, not very clear. does haynes cover this eng in a diff book ? haynes does not make 1 for the 1995/90. of a diff repair book ?
i can strip & rebuild a e30 bmw ! but i clearly do not understand how to make sure cams are extally in time - or am i just missing something ?
thanks for the reply

hubturn

I had the same fears initially. The locking plates(#2 in diagram)fit on the cam only one way. The cam shaft is 'D' shaped on the end, and the locking plate center hole is also 'D' shaped. Further, there are two holes in the locking plate that are different sizes. The cam holding bar has two pins that are also different sizes. Therefore, the locking bar will only fit into the holes in the locking plate if the camshaft is rotated correctly to align the holes in the locking plate with the pins on the holding bar. You will not be able to screw this up if you use the correct tools, including the crankshaft holding pin! The sproket (#1) spins freely on the taper of the camshaft until the bolt (#3) is tightened, which you don't do until the belt tension is adjusted. Otherwise, it will be difficult to get the belt on and more importantly, the belt will be tight on one sprocket and loose on the other. Go to 12v.org and look over the procedure in addition to what the Bentleys says.

maineman

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html

scroll down until you get to the 12v v6 timing belt water pump procedure by catamount and click on it. Good procedure with pictures to help you along.
good luck

grillage

Look at this thread too...
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2813378

maineman

That is an excellent thread!

royemello

THANK YOU MEMBERS
i see the D shapes on the sprockets, with the crank holding tool & the bar , makes it set. (good thing ) for the D shapes !
a few other links tell how to do it with out the bar (& i understand ) but its worth the Audi tool rental for $40 to make sure.
my BMW's (e30's & e28's) use TDC , key wayed shafts & molded arrows in sprockets & Cly head to line up. gee Audi whats up ?
wasn't GM involved with auto union ? (lol)
THANK YOU VERY MUCH GUYS
+10 FOR AUDI WORLD MEMBERS !
might as well change water pump & T stat at the same time.
who has best deal on OEM (like) parts ?
pelicanparts i use for my BMW stuff - they have some Audi stuff - anyone better ?
AGAIN THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU !

maineman

You can get the whole timing belt kit from blauparts.com.
good luck