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Since i have replaced my ignition switch ive noticed a few things working again. The radio works without me jiggling the keys in the switch aswell as the lights. The feel of turning the key is much better its more firm and seems to stay in its place better than the previous one. Upon inspection i realized the engine ground was disconnected and tried putting it back on still yet to no avail.
Having someone else start the car and observe from the outside i hear something i suspect is my starter buzzing. The other day, for the first time the car was cranking and actually shut off during crank.
I've curious as to where the location of the crank and camshaft position sensors are on the v6, i may try to replace them if they arent too troublesome to get to. You wouldent happen to know where they are? I've tried searching yet no avail.
I would ignore the sensors for the time being, unless you can draw a line between them and possible current (intermittant?) cranking issues. If you do indeed have an issue with your starter, now would be the time to focus on that until you are sure all is well with its operation, your battery's state of charge and cranking the engine over, perfectly every time. Please tell me more about the (odd?) noise the starter is making.
Please also tell me about your engine ground (the one under the engine?) and why you cannot re-connect it. If I'm understanding you correctly, 4 threads you may want to read here:
As to CEL reading and clearing and component locations, get thee to "12v.org". and look around.
Know that it is customary on any forum to try to stick to the original subject of the thread (also why it is considerate to write a descriptive title) so that the conversation can be either read or ignored by others when viewed by its title alone.
The starter is making a faint buzzing sound, i tried hitting it a few times to see if it would start but nothing. I have to get under the car to inspect it i want to check and ensure the wiring on the starter is on there well.
The ground wire i found was close to the battery off the engine to the chaises.
I was thinking about these sensors since they can shut off the car/ cut spark i havent done a spark test yet, or fuel pressure test ether.
BTW the Video i uploaded starts at 27 seconds, ran out to take the paper clip out.
Have you been able to start the engine since switch replacement? It sounds like you are under the car beating on the starter solenoid while it makes noise, but the starter motor is not turning, correct?
Because the sensors will not prevent the cranking of the engine, that is why I think you may have to look elsewhere next.
If the ground wire you describe is the engine to chassis ground (chaise is a chair in French, btw) that does -not- connect to the battery, it may well be the current (limiting!) issue. Why is it now disconnected?
Since the switch replacement it cranked but did not start 1 time, a couple days after the switch was installed. It sounded like it was going to start then imminently died.
The ground was off where-ever it was originally attached to, i was just trying to say it was drivers side, near the battery. I'm going to try to re-attach it some-how tomorrow or go purchase a new harness because the end of that one broke. I hadent noticed this until today but defiantly something to fix. I'll post what happens once i replace it.
It may be apparent that you ought to be gathering certain items to have with you for those occasions where you want to do a road-side repair. IMHO, these items should include but not be limited to, as follows:
a.) A non-battery powered tire pressure gauge;
b.) A bicycle tire pump;
c.) A flashlight that is not your phone;
d.) The small owner's manual that fits in the glove box (This has fuse IDs, the maintenance schedule & much else.);
e.) The OEM (jumper wire) tool for reading and clearing codes;
The above may best be found at the wreckers, or the dealer may have them for very little costp
f.) Print off a paper copy of the article "Reading DTCs" from 12v.org;,l
g.) Find and print off a complete list of all DTCs causes and effects;
h.); OEM ignition switch plus required tools (for next time, even if your new switch is OEM);
i.) Find, read and print Owdlvr's post on this forum re abbreviated road-side ignition switch procedure;
j.) A POS;
k.) A Cam position sensor and required tools;
he above 2 may also be found at the wreckers, once you've found where to look, you can remove and test when found, or could be had from dealer, while there ask if they will mail you what you order from them.
l.) Whatever else you think might be worthwhile.
You will get 4444 100% of the time if you just check the codes. You need to try to start it, and after it fails keep the ignition on and THEN pull the codes.
If the engine has not tried to turn over the sensors will not see the Crank position sensor and you'll get 4444.
Yes, i have the 12v.org saved as a link and I've checked out 20v.org as-well. I'm going to be taking the belly pan off today and inspecting the car from underneath, looking for the starter wire and inspecting the ground wire for the battery and just ensuring nothing looks corded or broken as well as just a double check of everything.
To eliminate the possibly of me installing the switch wrong, are you suppose to install it like so? The key turns and such im just ensuring i did it right... i was an idiot and failed to remember witch way it went pulling out...figured itd only go in one way(fit/lock together) The picture below is of my old one, im not sure of what caused the small whole (ignition lock?)
Yes, grooves up, IIRC the two set screws are going to go into those grooves. , look at your old switch, any deformation from screws?. Irregardless the electrical plug only goes on one way and the switch doesn't even have to be re-installed back in the dash for it to function.
Please see my posts in the newer thread you started.
Last edited by Lago Blue; 07-31-2015 at 01:59 PM.
Reason: because this forum, unlike others, just does not function well when accessed from a tablet
07-30-2015, 07:57 AM
