danfil

While waiting for parts I thought why not test the ignition switch.

So I removed it. Found it was broken and in original equipment white plastic.

But it may not be the key to the problem. As for when I removed the ignition switch from the back of the dash area removed plug of wiring to it then, I re tested my battery drain and it was the same. As pictured..

Found a wire detached from wherever it came from, a red wire with black heat shrink on it, on the plug to the ignition switch..

Added a picture of the back of my dash, has label on it - 2012 something date if removed void warranty..

Hate my P.O.

Lago Blue

Dan,

Are you saying the subject wire into ignition switch plug is not connected to anything? Does it appear to be non-OEM?

Getting back to the list of usual "drain" suspects in those reference posts I mentioned previously, by physically dis-connecting them one at a time should net you the culprit. Comb through posts, make list and investigate each. Might be something simple like trunk light, cigarette lighter, a stuck door switch or the trunk hinge wiring?

danfil

Yes in the third picture of the wiring which plugs into the ignition switch (broken) as in first picture , has a small gauge red wire with black heat shrink unconnected to anything!!

To the right of the plug in the picture..

It has to be OEM wire from the plug as has a connector that runs through the plug to the switch with connectors in both the ignition switch and the plug for it It just does not go any where, or from any where. The wire in question. that is..

I thought the switch was OEM being white as the replacement is a black type.

I have deleted the trunk light, taping up both end connectors to the globe holder while removing globe.

Antenna is solid, not retractable as possible OEM do not know how it was rewired or meant to be rewired, will search, but I have sealed with tape loose connectors in general area in boot.

After market stereo, rear amp behind rear seat not on when car ignition off, stereo not functioning with ignition off, when on works powering rear speakers and front fine..Wiring as pictured..

Lago Blue

Dan.

That's good, the disconnected wire at your ignition switch goes no-where means it is a separate issue and not your drain. After drain is fixed you can find a factory wiring diagram and it will tell what that is for. However, just to review, looking back at your 1st post above, what about the red wire with the yellow crimped connector in your 3rd photo you called "solid red wire it was added by PO..." ? Have you run your test light with it disconnected from the positive terminal?

The old posts I referenced earlier will allow you to proceed down a list of likely suspects items which do -not- require the ignition switch for power, did you find them? Of that list, perhaps leave the trunk hinge-point wiring till last as that repair may be the most intrusive, however it may already be clearly visibly broken open indicating a likely issue. It therefore may be prudent to at least eyeball it quickly, it is a bundle of very small diameter wires (8 IIRC?) sheathed inside black plastic tube that snakes through the LH trunk hinge (on North-American models). It also has a molded black plastic cover. Right where the wire must fold due to trunk lid motion, inspect that portion. Is it kinked sharply and/or obviously broken? With a forum search here you will find fix procedures in the archive.

The original OEM ignition switches where white, however so are some of the less desireable non-OEMs. The updated OEM switch is black, however so are some of the non-OEMs. The most reliable are apparently the dealer-bought genuine Audi black ones. Colour alone is not the discriminator.

danfil

After the installation of the new ignition switch I tested the parasitic drain in amps. Result is in the picture.

After reading many posts on this forum I took the precaution of removing the P.O. attempt of adding a positive connector onto the battery. Incase of a mis-wire causing a catastrophe .

I started the car and everything I quickly tested works, stereo, indicators, motor, charging system through gauges and voltmeter.

Then I did a idiot test and tested the voltage and continuity of the added wire to the battery. It was throwing back to the battery 0.6 Volts !!

I also tested the wire from the OE ignition switch plug that was cut And found very little volts less than 0.6 volts coming from it when engine running.

I connected a longer wire to it for the test and suspect it is the 86s or 86a on some schematics I am looking at for a 1996 Cabriolet which may be different.
This 86 wire feeds the stereo OEM, when mine after market then the OE alarm, again mine after market. And also feeds the dash 'car system check module'..
I am still thinking about doing another operation electronically..Testing..

danfil

1. Removed stereo to check wiring to find out if every think was ok as added wire to positive seams to be the power for the rear speakers ( w/amp )
Picture attached of wiring connector in car.

The yellow and blue wires being disconnected from this plug I assume are for rear left right speaker..Superseded by rca plugs from after market stereo.
Orange wire still a mystery after trawling through 11 pages in this forum from a search "stereo wiring".
Even looked at blauplunks wiring as similar although my, to stereo plugs are cut and nowhere to be found..

2. Blew up my multimeter will purchase new one soon...

danfil

All O.K. orange from harness illumination +12volts when lights on

danfil

Have an update after investigations,
I was a bit hasty when I wrote possibly fixed, with new multimeter the drain is still 0.2 amps. Only drops 0.01 amp when the central locking fuse is pulled.

Looked again at the radio wiring and found the added in red wire to battery positive powers the rear speakers.(see younger photo in thread)

Diagram shows the wiring plug from the harness disconnected to the radio. Connected as marked, only change is orange connected as illumination dimmer for stereo.

Also the red wire behind this plug pictured inside the wiring harness runs to the amps power behind the back seat via a spliced join.

The black earth may be spliced in the wiring to another non OE earth on chassis.

Not looking at doing much more on this thread is taking up alot of time tracing wires etc. Maybe this weekend will install isolation switch near the battery to stop drain from OE wire on positive. This wire powers all dash starter circuitry.

Dan.

Lago Blue

Hi Dan,

You are very close to the fault. Quite the brain drain. Be sure to use meter on negative side of thīngs to help protect against over current damage, you may know that already. Perhaps that larger (abnormally high). current flow. you see leaking via central locking is simply a stuck relay, faulty switch keeping a light on , or a mechanical plumbing vacuum leak that this system is just trying to remedy by running the vac. pump to build stored vacuum?

Sorry for typos, forum issues. Again.

danfil

I am soon to install an after market alarm controlling the central locking via remote so I may not search for a vacuum leak right away.

Something I noticed today was a when locking the drivers door then unlocking the drivers door with the battery disconnected. The passengers lock button when unlocking the drivers tries to move..Is this residual vacuum or with the negative of the battery removed the pump trying to open with the earth leakage from the positive being connected?

I am not sure of which is occurring..

Installed a battery isolator for now.

In every search on this forum for the location of central locking pump, was as many threads if not more pointing towards the right boot hinge wiring being either broken or throwing voltage over other wires causing many problems. May look into this as mine kinks quite badly on the right of boot.