danfil

Introducing myself in a first post, I am Dan.
Owner of an 1994 Audi 80 Cabriolet with a 2.6 E V6 Auto
Having some issues electrically after buying the car for mainly wife's use,
Firstly the alarm is non existent a remote was provided but function was nothing.

Looking for the 'black box' of the alarm, either after market or original, to check for a fuse or other I found some other irregularities.

The first impression was of a wire spaghetti mess under the steering wheel.

Secondly after poking around I found one purple/pink connector to the right of steering column, not far from the relay and main 60 Amp fuse block but lower.
Unconnected.

Thirdly now I'm getting even more vague there was a 4 wire severing and tape up of a pink,red,black,white combo. Probably not related

Third photo is of a siren, suspected after market.


While I'm typing another issue is NO temp gauges are working.


This could be very bad in summer with 45+ degrees Celsius.


The gauge on main instrument cluster is dead as is the dial above the centre console as oil temp. Q. would the bypass of fan control by a three stage switch cause these sensors death?
Someone has installed prior a switch only when running controls the fans at low and high speed connected to a sensor at the radiator.

danfil

Sorry if I did not give enough relevant info, my Audi has done 117000 kilometres and has been hacked electrically. The 'black box' for the alarm is missing, finding what I think remains is a plug that would go into the box.
After searching this forum and through discussions externally a temp sensor may be at fault if not within the dash display, at fault.

There are two separate sensors at the back of the motor that seem intact and then there are the Radiator fan sensors. One with a switch inside the cabin hooked up to it(three pin), the other o.k. My short term solution is to adapt a 12 volt temperature monitor in the engine bay with a display inside the cabin.

Has the temp gauge failed on anyone's car audi 80.

Rusty Spokes

No telling what the original installer did to wire that thing up...your plug connector looks like part of the aftermarket alarm.

Sounds like the PO (previous owner) had a coolant fan problem and jury-rigged a switch. Time to sort out the problem and fix it right.

Here is a wiring diagram for a 1996 cabriolet...I'm pretty sure the coolant fans and wiring is very close if not exactly the same for your 1994 80 cabriolet.

http://12v.org/urs/1996_Audi_Cabriol...g_Diagrams.pdf

You can test the coolant temp circuit..you may have a bad temp sender or it could be the cluster..or maybe the wiring.

You can get a new temp sender very cheaply at HansAuto here in the USA ..they work fine. If it is the instument cluster..you can find those used.

danfil

thanks rusty for the diagram link and the info. Looks like the after market alarm 'black box' has been removed along with the original.
Knowing this will take some time I know now what I 'll be doing for xmas.

Dan

danfil

Any how after looking through some electrics my '94 cabriolet 2.6e V6 which is meant to be used as my daily driver I have the bonnet open for some time in the greater ambient heat in Aus. To my surprise I find a puddle of coolant under the car (had not been running) under the front of the engine.
Great, so I do some investigating by removal of some covers around the top and timing belt upper covers. It is very hard to tell where exactly the coolant its coming from.
Some other things I did notice with all the covers off was the TB was alot tighter than I first thought after removing the first left TB cover. In which in my opinion was a bit loose. May be the tensioner in the TB overtightened the belt and threw out the bearing in the water pump I cannot see. But because of this I am not starting the car.
Additionally the condition of the TB is not perfect, though without cracks or other wear the rubber is, not flaking but like its been scuffed around the edge where it sits on the cogs, alike the metal cogs have scuffed the belt rubber cogs.
I'll try to get a picture later.
Any how I got a German made water pump with a metal impeller to go in but think the process will have to be re done when doing the thermostat and TB and tensioner and idler. But the water pump came with no gasket. And this is meant to be my daily driver.
I got the water pump to do the job right with TB kit and thermostat from an auto store here in Perth. But with X-mas so close now money is a issue as is the auto stores availability since all warehouses are closed.

I think the question of only doing the water pump is answered already, its not worth doing until all the right parts are in front of me.
But finding a correct TB kit and thermostat that's affordable here in Perth is difficult.
my chassis # ends with=8GZRA004900
or it could be =8G7RA004900
finding a correct ebay item is risky and alot of American sites may not post to Aussie and are for the 2.8 not the 2.6
Looked at dayco site for a correct kit but again not too sure on chassis #.

Any ideas?

danfil

after being totally confused by the dayco site for a timing belt kit for my chassis # it seams, that they do not allow for the cabriolet in their selection, looking through the web I stumbled upon a bosch catalogue for timing belt kits.

As I understand from both sites the 2.6 v6 abc motor for the 80 built between 07.92 and 05.95 there are two TB kits for these motors with different chassis #
up to "8C..S..025821" then from. The TBkit for before is
Bosch 8547 Dayco KTB 380E
and after is
Bosch 8023 Dayco KTB 477E
all this you probably know.
ok
For the cabriolet built 01.94-08.00 v6 2.6 abc motor
Chassis # up to 8G..S..001302 build date 01.94-09.94
TB kit Bosch 8547 Dayco KTB380E
Chassis # upward of 8G..S..001303 build date 09.94-08.00
TB kit Bosch 8023 Dayco KTB 477E

This gives me more info
but its still a little cloudy with a chassis number ending with

8G7RA004900
Any one a little more focused before I make a mistake.
If I was a betting man with my car stamped built 01.94 I would go with the Ktb 380E but with a chassis number that seems greater than the one specified "I think' am I wrong?

danfil

Merry x-mas to all,
this afternoon I started to strip the motor down until I ran out of light and availability of a marker to mark the belt, no liquid paper, or any thing alike.


If you have the time look at the belt is it ok just to replace the water pump for a time until funds are better?

I am still confused on the TB kit I am needing as above posts though need my daily back on the road.
Prices range from AU$400 some a bit cheaper plus freight.
I am certain the pump has failed and if the tensioner and idlers spin ok I may do a patch job for the interim..
The belt looks ok to me apart from the outer most edge to the front of the motor as described in previous posts.

Rusty Spokes

I'm sure the timing belt on the 2.6 is the same as the 2.8..did a quick Google search and found a German site that sell a kit that fits both engines.

Timing Belt Kit with water pump 2.6 2.8 AUDI A4 8D A6 4A A8 80 Cabrio

Now..the ribbed belt may be different..Audi went to a shorter belt and eliminated a pulley on later engines...that belt is easy to check or replace.

If you don't know when the timing belt was last changed..best go ahead and do it while you are changing the water pump. It is hard to judge the condition of the timing belt by general appearance. If it fails you have some very expensive repairs..just not worth it.

I would suggest getting the cam holding tool and a stubby gear puller..it really helps with setting the correct camshaft timing..they are not too expensive over on the Bay..a 2.8 SOHC Audi tool will work just fine.

hubturn

In regards to the timing belt, this is a case where you go to the Audi dealer and get them to give you a part number. Then ask what other cars that part is good for. Then you know if it is the same as the 2.6 and the 2.8. As to the looseness on one side and tightness on the other - This is a classic example of someone doing the job without the cam holding tool. Can it be done? Yes, but this issue is what you get. The problem is that the cam gears are not keyed to the camshaft. They are on a taper and have to be released from the taper with a gear puller. When installing the new timing belt, the cams gears (not the shafts) have to rotate to distribute the slack in the timing belt. Even doing it correctly, there will be a small differential in tightness on one side and the other. There are those who believe that you can be a degree or two off in the timing due to this, but that is for serious engine tuners. By the way, when removing the assessory belt tensioner, there are two holes on the perimeter of the tensioner that will line up when you put the 10mm allen socket in the slot and rotate it to release the tension. Put a nail or small screwdriver through these holes to keep the tension fixed in that position. You can't do this when you have it off the car and you will be hating yourself for not doing this. Get the crankshaft holding pin and the cam holding tool.

danfil

Well all is well after reading much good advice, replaced timing belt and water pump as per pictures, I won't go through all my mistakes during the work as the result is it runs well now if not better while not leaking coolant.
As the picture of the water pump may suggest the wrong coolant was used i.e. green stuff smelling sweet.
Rusty red water came out of the motor and radiator as I took it out for a reason (to get access to fix one of my mistakes).
I'm using straight distilled water for now then I will get the premix coolant from the dealer or other G12 stuff I have read, after doing a flush/clean cycle.
Overall it was not too bad, these allen key bolts can be a pain if you get at them on the wrong angle and round out easily. I was not using allen keys but still did a little damage, fixable though.
Glad its working I was very lucky really its not a little job on these cars with "0" tolerance for mistakes on the timing belt fit.
And x-mas is the perfect timing for parts over here with the boxing day sales at auto stores got the cam belt cheap.