Eng Block question 12v Cab
#11
AudiWorld Super User
here is another option http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Short-Block-Factory-Rebuilt-Audi-A4-A6-quattro-Cabriolet-2-8L-V6-AFC-/300874680862?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460d874a1e&vxp=mtr
#12
AudiWorld Member
Thanks to all for the input. I spent a day at the local import guy and an old school machine shop. Local import guy says, junk it, but if you won't, lightly sand the block and then coat the gasket with copper coat and put it back together. "That's what we'd do if we saw this." Next, geezer machinest says, "We can do the block, cylinders, etc and don't worry about the piston travel, there will be plenty of room. But if it was mine, I'd copper coat the gasket and put it back together. All you have to lose is a gasket set." This was after the discussion about how I'd have about a $1000 into a rebuild after machining (about $150, cheap really), and new rings, bearings (while you're there) some seals etc, gasket kit, a couple of tools I don't have, etc. Most of all with the rebuild is risk. Piloting the engine back on the transmission, some rather close tolerance measurements here and there, etc, and a big time investment. I'm going to lightly sand the block, copper coat the gasket and put it back together. Not optimum, but.... Varia, are you saying that's a bad choice? I know from your other posts that you are highly knowledgeable.
Get a complete engine from the junk yard or car-part.com if you dont want to rebuild this.
#13
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That short block really has me thinking. Have to see the difference for AFC versus my AAH. I know there is a a head difference, and maybe an improved oil pump and/or the bigger oil cooler, but other than that, I don't know.
#14
That Audi short block looks nice and a good find by CR..$500 plus shipping..a better choice than reworking your old engine.
You don't have much to lose by reassembly of your old engine based on the geezer machinist advice and giving it a try. Varia is very correct the specs for the block surface will be incorrect. I've seen some similar sloppy engine block grinding/cleaning done on VW (aluminium head/iron block) engines. Discovered the poor work when doing a rebuild many miles after the hack job was done.
I would get that short block as a back up or winter project too if you try the repair to your old engine.
You don't have much to lose by reassembly of your old engine based on the geezer machinist advice and giving it a try. Varia is very correct the specs for the block surface will be incorrect. I've seen some similar sloppy engine block grinding/cleaning done on VW (aluminium head/iron block) engines. Discovered the poor work when doing a rebuild many miles after the hack job was done.
I would get that short block as a back up or winter project too if you try the repair to your old engine.
#15
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I'm looking hard at that short block. They quote it as an AFC, but the oil pans are different, I believe, between an AFC and an AAH. I sent them a request on Ebay, since the flange with the stamped letters has been machined off. Anybody know just by looking at the oil pan if that's an AAH? I can't quite make out all the part number. If it isn't can I swap the two and put my AAH heads on it? I'm an MMS 311 system, due to the current pre 12.94 engine (a really early 1995 production. My electrical system is all 1994 wiring!!) Think that valley pan gasket is guaranteed not to leak ?
Last edited by hubturn; 10-23-2014 at 06:53 AM.
#16
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Just talked to the guys at Eurospec. Shipping is going to kill me for this block - About $300. They are in California. This is a great item. Reman by the VW/Audi people, not some shadetree operation. You guys out west - Crazy Russian - you ought to get one. Looking like the copper coat and back together or junk the thing for me.
#17
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AAH/AFC will swap
im actually in process of rebuilding and building up my bottom end with ARP studs, new bearings and rings. I've also built a set of hybrid heads. few years back i got a brand new set of 12V heads from VW/Audi. anyways, they got AFC 7mm valve stem swirl polished valves, cut out to accept high-rev dual springs with titanium retainers and lighter lifters with a set of AAH cams, i removed about 330 grams from the valve train )
$800 shipped for a complete bottom end with new pistons is not all that unreasonable.
im actually in process of rebuilding and building up my bottom end with ARP studs, new bearings and rings. I've also built a set of hybrid heads. few years back i got a brand new set of 12V heads from VW/Audi. anyways, they got AFC 7mm valve stem swirl polished valves, cut out to accept high-rev dual springs with titanium retainers and lighter lifters with a set of AAH cams, i removed about 330 grams from the valve train )
$800 shipped for a complete bottom end with new pistons is not all that unreasonable.
#18
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I do agree that $800 is still pretty good. However, looking at those brand new pistons, it's pretty hard to bolt on some half worn out heads, and an old alternator, and everything else that is going to look like crap connected to an essentially new block. Therefore, I'd end up getting a bunch of new stuff and the $800 block would wind up being $2000 worth of new stuff. It would be fun though!!
#19
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heads are rebuildable and everything else can be washed but yeah, a project like this ads up quickly or you could just strap your old stuff to the new block and not worry about it till it brakes
#20
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