hubturn

This photo shows issues I am concerned with. After putting a light sanding block, 1000 grit, on the engine block I see these lines. Is this the result of a prior owner wielding a rotary wheel and ruining my block or is this normal and within limits. I can almost feel them, but possibly this is my imagination. A straight edge across the cylinders shows no deflection, but of course that's not 'engineering' flat. If my fears are realized, what's the fix? And yes, those are those cute little covers they put on your glasses in the hotel room after they wipe out the glasses with the past guest's nasty towel.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

thats not factory! someone screwed with it

hubturn

I figured as much. Is there a solution short of pulling the engine and having that machined? I'm really not looking forward to that. Too many "While you're there.." things that would crop up. However, is it easier to remove the block at this stage in the process?

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

far as i know, the only solution to that is removing the block. what i would do first, is take a straight edge and check to see if these imperfections cause a light to go thrum between the straight edge and the block.
i would say you will need another 1.5-2.5 hours to remove the motor, you've done the hard part already. also, removing your motor will give you a good opportunity to replace the rear main seal and gasket behind the flange. upper and lower oil pan gaskets, and the front oil seal if you haven't done that one yet ;-)
btw, if you show up at a machine shop and they tell you that what you have on that block is Okey... run the hell away from them!!!! that type of surface was OK maybe 60+ years ago when head gaskets were asbestos and didn't need a perfectly smooth surface to mate too. btw, those guide pins that are broken off on your block, if you can find an aircooled vw shop, they use those on type 1 flywheels as guide pins for the pressure plate, so they should have some of those kicking around or contact Dave at Foreign Aide in Albuquerque, he will know what your talking about as i grabed a set from him a few month ago

hubturn

As I figured. Additional info to consider. I measured the heads after resurfacing. The limit per Bentleys is 5.226 inches. I'm barely over that as in 5.229 on one and 5.227 on the other. My fear is that if the block has to be resurfaced, and I can't find any numbers for this, my effective total stroke of the piston will be too great and penetrate too far into the head. Can this be compensated for by a thicker head gasket? As I have never pulled this engine before, any idea as to the weight of what I have left to pull? I don't have a hoist and probably could rent one. Further, what is the strategy once the block is pulled. Can I get this resurfaced without removing the crank and pistons? I know, while you're there check all the bearings, etc but then I'm really looking at a total rebuild. Junking or parting out is on my mind. Thanks Crazy, I knew I could count on you for info on the block since you've pulled so many of these engines.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

to answer one question, its too have for you just to lift it, even with two people it would be a struggle to get it out of the car. just the flywheel in itself is 30lbs, you get the point

how much the machine shop will remove, you have to ask them on all of those details.

there is a slight problem with just checking the bearing, you will have to replace the bolts that you take out as they are stretch bolts and need to be replaced if you remove them.

you would have to remove the AC compressor (i just unbolted my from the block so i dont have to split the lines) alternator/starter, couple of sensors with wires, i would remove the driver side engine mount from the frame of the car, as it is a pitta to put it back on with the headers in place. coolant lines, front snub mount....mmm..... bell housing bolts and i took of the fans off with the shroud so they dont get in a way, i think that's about it (im probably missing something)

on the whole piston/valve clearance problem, you would have to take measurements of how far the piston travels, how far the valve opens, and so on... also i don't know if these limits were set so you don't change the compression ratio drastically or because valve and piston will be introduced to each other if you find out the answer to that, please post it here actually, a good the machine shop should be able to help you with that

Rusty Spokes

I think removing/shaving the block will create more problems than it is worth really..deck height problems, machine shop time, your labor and so forth..too much.

In that you are that that moment where there is not much to lose..I would lightly sand the block deck, clean it and put it back together.

You can check out the junk yards and craigslist..Watch for another engine..they can be had pretty cheap.

If the head gaskets are pooched because of the block (I think that is very unlikely, honestly)..then just rework your surplus engine and make a swap..easier in the long run than trying to fix the one you have.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

i wasnt looking at it that way, but i think Rusty is wright... most pick-n-pull's will charge you about $200-250 for an engine, that way you could find an AAH engine end use the cams ;-)
or you could try getting a peace of glass and some fine sand paper and sending down the block and then spray some copper head gasket stuff on everything, should help

varia

"I would lightly sand the block deck, clean it and put it back together."

i had to read it twice...

hubturn

Thanks to all for the input. I spent a day at the local import guy and an old school machine shop. Local import guy says, junk it, but if you won't, lightly sand the block and then coat the gasket with copper coat and put it back together. "That's what we'd do if we saw this." Next, geezer machinest says, "We can do the block, cylinders, etc and don't worry about the piston travel, there will be plenty of room. But if it was mine, I'd copper coat the gasket and put it back together. All you have to lose is a gasket set." This was after the discussion about how I'd have about a $1000 into a rebuild after machining (about $150, cheap really), and new rings, bearings (while you're there) some seals etc, gasket kit, a couple of tools I don't have, etc. Most of all with the rebuild is risk. Piloting the engine back on the transmission, some rather close tolerance measurements here and there, etc, and a big time investment. I'm going to lightly sand the block, copper coat the gasket and put it back together. Not optimum, but.... Varia, are you saying that's a bad choice? I know from your other posts that you are highly knowledgeable.