egp320i

Replaced my original switch in my 94' the other day and as I suspected even though it started and the lights worked it was worn out or cracked.
I knew this because a few months prior the switch cracked on my A6 to the point the car ceased to start.

If your switch is white it's original or very old, the new ones are black and are updated B revisions.

The kicker is about a year ago my temp gauge stopped working or would work and die quickly.

My brown connector was cracked so I replaced it to no avail.
Replaced the sensor and same symptoms.

After the switch replacement the temp gauge magically works now as it is supposed to.

One would not think they are related but almost everything in the cluster runs through the switch at some point.

Got gremlins? it's probably the switch.

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=205tncg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i42.tinypic.com/205tncg.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

Mine on the left, A6 on the right and the usual area to crack where the spring seats in the hole.

I must say 19 years and thousands of turns, they are pretty darn durable.

2000_A6_2.8_Avant

There was a recall on ignition switches for 1994-1996 for your model. If it was not replaced at the dealer previously, you probably could have had it done for free!

Vehicle Make / Model: Model Year(s):
AUDI / 100 1994-1996
AUDI / 90 1994-1996
AUDI / A6 1994-1996
AUDI / CABRIOLET 1994-1996
AUDI / S4 1994-1996
AUDI / S6 1994-1996
Manufacturer: VOLKSWAGEN OF AMERICA,INC Report Receipt Date: JAN 29, 1996
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 96V017000 NHTSA Action Number: RQ00009
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Potential Number of Units Affected: 24,000
Summary:
DEFECTIVE IGNITION SWITCHES WERE IMPROPERLY MANUFACTURED AND CAN CAUSE SOME ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES TO MALFUNCTION.
Consequence:
SOME ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES, SUCH AS, TURN SIGNALS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS, LAMPS, POWER WIND0WS AND AIR CONDITIONERS CAN MALFUNCTION WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH.
Notes:
SYSTEM: ELECTRICAL; IGNITION; SWITCH. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. NOTE: OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME, SHOULD CONTACT AUDI AT 1-800-822-2834. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-800-424-9393.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

ive replaced my just as preventative maintenance also trunk wiring harness is another thing that causes all sorts of random crap

egp320i

Interesting there was a recall, I was not aware.
The original owner was meticulous when it came to this car.
I know the cats were replaced at the dealer under warranty but
never seen the switch.

I did not have any of the symptoms mentioned so maybe it was replaced.
I have no idea what year they revised and introduced the black B version switches.

The funky temp gauge just started about a year ago, that is most likely when the switch cracked but not to the point anything dash related stopped working or the car would not start.

It is so much better now and heck, it took less then a hour with me taking my time, besides I kinda lost my dealer last year when Audi USA pulled their license due to financial issues, complaints over shoddy work, etc.

The A6 is a 97'and not part of the recall, besides that little nub the switches are 100% identical I posted.

Both have new "black" switches now

Luxus Panzer

I scored a set of free injectors once

egp320i

Good deal. It only took me 10 years but finally got around to that switch.
I remember you saying "the switch must be bad" due to it's age but it still worked.
I want to say not long ago and when the temp gauge stopped working is when that crack probably appeared.

I have the paperwork for the injector rail recall and CAT recall but nothing about the switch.

Yanked the switch from my 88' when I was using it as a test bed and it's cracked in the same exact place too.

Looks original, 25 freaking years.....

mayaslady

M name is rick writing from Sequim, Wa. Awhile back My key was broken in the key chamber. We tried everything to remove it. No luck. I bought a new key and key cylinder. I also bought a new ignition switch. Where on the key system holding frame do I drill a hole to release the clip to remove the key and cylinder so I can replace them.I was told you have to remove the steering wheel. Can I take a small drummnal grinding wheel and thru the front where I can see everything if I make a small slice instead of a drill hole , would that work? But first I need to know exactly where to make my slice to push on the spring clip holding the key. Can I droll straight thru where the key enters the cylinder where it broke and gradually remove it that way?

egp320i

I'll have to fire up my other computer to check Bentley but as I recall you need to drill in order or put in the new cylinder.
It is fairly elaborate to do this but possible.

tsmousa

just bought a 97 Cabriolet, Starts fine, runs fine, took it in for an oil service just start a fresh, asked Audi to run a diagnostic for me to let me know what codes if any they get. They came back to me with your iginition switch is not recognising the the car is on or off, not recognizing any other electronics, so they could not check for codes until this is addressed.

Any ideas where to start? I bought a new switch but not sure it is the switch or the wiring to the switch.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

egp320i

Not sure how that makes much sense. Does the key turn all the way left and stop?
Generally when the switch cracks the key will go too far to the right.
A scanner pulls power from the bus but the key has to be ON [first click right].
Sounds like the switch might be faulty/worn out.
It's a $20 part for OEM, if it's white it's the old version and should be updated.