CRAZY_RUSSIAN

there is just one fuse box. but there are some relays under the driver side kick panel.
you probably tried an MMS-200 ecu compared to your mms-300/311 ecu, there is a single wire pinout difference between the 2 ECUs and thats why a early one didn't work. also a 3 and 4 wire MAFs make a difference, but thats another story on its own.
to check the timing, you need a special chamshaft holding tool 12v Pages - Maintenance
replace that #32 fuse just for the heck of it if u havent already. also i would just go thru all the fuses individually and check them.

xuno_gil

I am still going to check the 4 pin connector on the POS (need to wait for a hand to help on cranking) I feel that there can't be that 5v pulse coming from pin 1,3,4 on harness side of connector because everything down steam of that has already been replaced and I still have nothing. Again, I am going to check it with a VM once I get a hand here but what is next if I don't get the signals? Is it then that I assure myself that it has to be something related to timing or the ECM not getting proper signal.

xuno_gil

Thanks for all that info Crazy_Russian.
I have already removed and reinstalled all the fuses to verify them, I can replace the #32 20amp fuse but the fuse looks completely fine with no sign of separation, scaring, or burning. Might as well replace it though.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

you may have a broke or munched on wire somewhere thats causing this

grillage

Did you ever verify the grounds?

xuno_gil

Yes I have verified a good ground on the 4 pin connector (pin 2).
I will check the 5v pulse when someone can give me a hand but I feel i will not get what I am looking for. My next idea will be to use a 15amp fused jumper from a voltage source to supply power to the ignition system to see if it will start. After some searching there seams to be a fuse s103 somewhere under the dash in the passenger side. I know this area is prone to water damage and I guess there is a lot of vital wiring down there and some can lead to no spark.
I want to attach this jumper to the coil power but not sure where the best place for this is. There is the connector that comes from the POS (ICM) but I think this sends current to each coil, should I supply the jumper current to the other connector?

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

check the ground to the engine block. or maybe run another ground wire from the frame to the motor to provide additional ground

xuno_gil

I have checked my main ignition ground and it is great (12.89v) from battery positive through ground.

I just put a jumper from battery + to Black with green strip wire (which I believe is 12v wire) that goes to coils. Now I don't know if this is the ignition coil power supply but I figured through junctions it should get there. I had an in line 15amp fuse in that jumper.

This again did nothing...

How can I bypass the ignition power supply?

And, are there any water sensitive fuses or whatever under the passenger side dash? and do any of these fuses or whatever supply power to the ignition system?

xuno_gil

[QUOTE

So, to be sure this is all working, you should test each part of this.
Cranking the engine should give you pulsed 5v between pins 2 and 1,3 or 4 on the 4 pin POS harness. If that works, check that when that's plugged in to the POS you get pulses of continuity between ground and each of the pins from the small side of the POS.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks Grillage for the info above,

I just did this test and sure enough I did not get the pulsed 5v between each of those pins and the ground pin, when cranking.

So like I assumed the problem has to lay upstream, what should I be checking now?

xuno_gil

I am starting a new thread on this issue as this one is getting long and I feel a more specific thread will be helpful.

If I end up with a result I will come back to this one and post it.