NYC Cabriolet

I am hoping that someone can help me. I purchased a 1996 Cabriolet that appeared to be in great condition. I brought it to the Audi Dealership in NYC for an assessment before I purchased it and they said it was sound. When I tried to have the car inspected by another Audi dealer I was told that the car could not pass inspection and needed the front tie rod replaced. After having put more than 1/2 of the original cost of the car to take care of this problem, in addition to having to replace the power steerin rack by a family mechanic....today the MIL, engine light is on! I am a NYC school teacher and am not able to spend alot of money to solve this problem. I was wondering if anyone might know of anything that I could do myself that might enable me to figure out what might be the problem without having to dish out too much money. I also would like to point out that there was a problem with the Airbag indicator light and is is always lit but I was told that it was a malfunction and can be ignored. I now have to question if this is also the case with the MIL warning light and try to see if I can avoid any unneccessary service costs.

I hope someone can help.
Thanks,
NYC Cabriolet

4000fixes

Most cases is the oxygen sensor from what ive seen...I know thats why mine comes on. Go to 12v.org and itll tell you how to check the codes from your check engine light. You can find decently priced oxygen sensors on Ebay. Its best to replace it with the factory plug tho and not the cheap universal replacement. Thats just my 2.8 cents

pilot345

but as for the MIL, as the guy below said, pull the code using 12v.org's instructions.

It can be a malfunction anywhere in the fuel injection system, a sensor, or an output.. possibly, but not limited to an o2 sensor. Look up the code, and identify the sensor giving bad data, probably meaning it needs replaced, but depending on the sensor it may be able to be fixed.

brockwestin

I need help with an AC problem on my 96 cabrio..im new to this site and so far have found this to be the only way to ask a question by replying here

sanchius

The Audi Cab is NOT an appliance car. You have a choice of either spending lots of money for mechanics to work on your car, investing the time & a modest amount of $$$ on tools to learn to fix it yourself or you should find yourself a nice toyotahondanissan. I chose the center path and, aside from mounting tires and windshields, no mechanic has touched my Cab since I got it.

Learn to work on your cab, safe in the knowledge that every $ you invest into tools & manuals will save you 3-10x in shop costs. Spend a few hours becoming strong in your search-fu, both here, on forums.quattroworld.com/9080 and elsewhere. They are amazing resources. I don't think I've run into anything that wasn't already posted here and I've gone deep into my Cap.

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8075731813_23c3ab04c6_o_d.jpg">

But, in the end, it's worth it and you will be a different and much more self-reliant person who knows that, no matter what goes wrong with your Cab, you can fix it yourself. It's a wonderful place to be.

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7226/7189277177_0819feaa49_b.jpg">

hubturn

Sorry, NYC Cab, but I have to agree with Sanchius. As a Cab owner, they are a beautiful thing when operating smoothly and the top is working, but if you don't have any skills, or aren't willing to learn, you might best get rid of the Cab. Each (there are two)control arm cost about $150 (with tie rod ends)and are easy to install, except that you pretty much have to have an alignment after. You either didn't pay much for the Cab or you got hosed on the control arm. The power steering rack is a total PITA (pain in the @##) to replace. I rebuilt mine for the $75 seal kit. The brake master cylinder and brake booster MUST be removed to do the job properly. Total cost in parts $175. Brakes have to be bled after. If the friend did it cheap, you might have caught a break. Here's the problem. The airbag is usually removed in the process. If the clips are not put back on the airbag securely, or you start the car prior to putting the airbag back, you throw the airbag code and it is there until you get the codes cleared. That means $50 bucks at a shop to clear the code or buy the Vag-Com for a couple of hunderd (adveretised on this site) or find somebody that has one. As to the MIL light. Are you using premium gas? Make sure the brake fluid is full, since it should have been bled. Next, get a can of MAF cleaner, go to 12v.org, and learn how to open up the intake plumbing and spray off the MAF. (Mass Airflow Sensor). Also. look around the intake manifold and make sure all the ducting is secure. Air leaks in the system cause oxygen sensor codes when they are not really the problem. OK, enough for now. Don't be discouraged. Knowledge is power. Get some.

Mike Atkisson

You guys are replying to a Thread started almost 6 years ago!

"brockwestin" posted about his A/C problem in this thread instead of creating a new one.

sanchius

Wow, LOL.

gotta96cabby

Hey - where'd you get those headlights?

varia

what headlight?
its a stock headlight w/ clear corners