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Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

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Old 01-11-2011, 08:28 PM
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Default Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Does anybody have any experience replacing the ECT on a 2006 Audi A3 2.0T? I have tried searching and have come up short. I have no idea where this sensor is.
Old 01-11-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by allinthefamily
Does anybody have any experience replacing the ECT on a 2006 Audi A3 2.0T? I have tried searching and have come up short. I have no idea where this sensor is.
No experience with A3, but this is a diagram from ETKA for your car. Look on larger coolant hoses, lower right side perhaps, going to radiator, the CTS (#10 in blue), fits into radiator hose with a large clip. O-ring = #11, and clip = #12.
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:24 AM
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Did you find it? I am having an issue with my temp gauge not working. Car runs fine but last night the CEL came on. Went to Advance auto and got code P2181. I get heat when heater is on. Been reading that the thermostat should also be replaced. Cant find that either. Any help would be great. Some pics would be great. I want to do this myself as the dealer just got me for 2600 bucks 2 weeks ago. They replaced my HPFP and Cam. Thanks for your help.
Old 03-07-2011, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordon1976
Did you find it? I am having an issue with my temp gauge not working. Car runs fine but last night the CEL came on. Went to Advance auto and got code P2181. I get heat when heater is on. Been reading that the thermostat should also be replaced. Cant find that either. Any help would be great. Some pics would be great. I want to do this myself as the dealer just got me for 2600 bucks 2 weeks ago. They replaced my HPFP and Cam. Thanks for your help.
I did find the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. It is pretty easy to find and replace... Once you remove your intake. After intake removal, you can easily find the sensor, and I have placed a circle around it. You can see the green and brown wires. The previous post is semi-helpful. The key thing to note is to be careful removing the clip. If you break it, you will need to buy a new one and wait another week for delivery. The electrical housing for the sensor itself removes like most of the other electrical connectors under the hood. Make sure you order a 2pin sensor with new O-ring. Prepare the new sensor by placing the new O-ring on the new sensor. It helps to lube the O-ring similar to any O-ring replacement.

Now, I had a willing volunteer when I did this, but you can do this by yourself. I had my volunteer place their finger in the hole immediately after removing the old sensor while I grabbed the new one. Then did another quick swap (sensor for finger) when installing the new sensor. This yielded minimal fluid loss.

I wish this was my only problem. I have also been experiencing cylinder misfire codes and had a stint where my oil pressure light was coming on for no good reason. I ordered a new oil pressure sensor at lunch a few weeks ago and that afternoon the light stopped coming on. Go figure. Does anybody have any thoughts/experience with this?

Back to the ECT sensor... After installation the gauge started working again for about a week and a half with no CEL. Then, it crashed again with a CEL and stayed pulled cold for about half a week. Then, Sunday afternoon the gauge starts working again. I was told by the dealer that this was my only problem after inspecting the vehicle in response to this code. He mentioned that the failed sensor indicated to the computer that the engine temperature was always at -40°C! I'm sure those that live up north know what their car sounds like when it's -40°C, but I have no idea. Again, car has not been sounding rough or sluggish.

I have no idea why the gauge resurrects itself randomly, but I am on the verge of taking the car back to the dealer. However, I will probably try and replace the thermostat first. Which I have no clue about.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by allinthefamily
I wish this was my only problem. I have also been experiencing cylinder misfire codes and had a stint where my oil pressure light was coming on for no good reason. I ordered a new oil pressure sensor at lunch a few weeks ago and that afternoon the light stopped coming on. Go figure. Does anybody have any thoughts/experience with this?
I also had experienced the engine misfire CEL codes. I dont remember what the exact code was but it only happened in high gears and wide open throttle, usually around 3750 RPM or so. Dealer said my cam lobe was wearing down and my high pressure fuel pump was bad also because of the lobe wear. As i earlier stated, 2600 bucks later and its good to go. Now I just have this sensor to replace!!! Uggh!!
Old 03-08-2011, 06:07 AM
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allinthefamily,

Thanks for the assistance on locating the sensor, supplying the picture helped a lot!

Waiting on part to come in. Will update if it fixed it.

About the thermostat, I heard you have to replace the entire housing, not just the thermostat itself. Not sure about that but maybe others on here can provide guidance.
Old 03-08-2011, 08:11 AM
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you need a new thermostat. btdt
The 06's are 6 years old and losing their spring tension (mine was dated '05 when i pulled the old one)

there is a little known, undocumneted temp gauge disable function in some of the 06 e ngine software. THis happens just before you get the cel. This is your P2181.

If your thermostat is just a little weak, (still get heat, but a little slow to warm up)you will get a coolant performance malfunction code. This can hide on warm days, but a cold spell will cause it to show up. It will "fix itself" when the car is warmim ng up better due to warm weather or new thermostat with fresh spring.

oh, and buy a vag-com. dont screw around. will pay for itself. so much more than a pep boys scan will be revealed.

I changed the tstat myself in my 06 3.2, but search and there are diys around for the 2.oT. I think get the housing w/thermostat for your engine. ECS has the whole thing for under $40, but they only ship UPS so not best price to ship. I like autohausaz.com and dbcperformance as well. get some new G12+ coolant. you will lose it all. and those cool hose clamp pliers with the remote control cable made the job a piece of cake.

Last edited by SilverSquirrel; 03-08-2011 at 10:34 AM.
Old 03-08-2011, 11:00 AM
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http://www.dbcperformance.com/06f121...06f121111f.htm
Old 06-29-2011, 08:49 AM
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Gordon1976,

I noticed that you made a comment about dropping $2,600 for replacing HPFP and camshaft. Was this on a 2006 A3? If so, know that you should be covered under an extended warranty. It's good for 10years/120,000 miles. There is a reimbursement form you can fill out.

I noticed this thread b/c I am now getting P2261 and P2181 codes after the camshaft and HPFP was replaced by dealership last week. I have noticed that the car is slow to warm up, so it may be a totally unrelated issue. The thermostat is being replaced to resolve the P2181 code. And I think the turbo bypass/recirculation valve is being replaced to resolve the P2261 code. The dealership is hitting me hard on repairs. I'm hopeful that this is it and I can get my car back today or tomorrow.

Anyone encounter additional issues after the thermostat was replaced on a P2181 code?
Old 07-04-2011, 08:16 AM
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From what I've heard, it's best to replace thermostat and ect sensor together. I just did ect and still having problems. Thus, I will be doing thermostat soon.


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