Antwade123

Hello it seems everything is going wrong lately. It started with a bad PCV valve. I replaced that but found a rear main seal leak. Took it back to dealer because the had to remove tranny to do the work. Drove it back home and now I'm losing all my power and my EPC light is on. I have 161 k miles. I love the car any suggestions?? I've put 3000 in repairs in 3 months should I keep going? Anthony

windsofpassion13

This is my significant others valentine's day gift to diagnose his car. Here is the info... by tomorrow

2001 audi a4 Quattro. 153k miles other wise great condition
Code p0300 checking maf and cleaning tomorrow bad heater core epc light check engine light battery light stays on when key is turned forward initially it will crank crank crank and sounds like right before it turns over to start it keeps cranking the more we tried which wasn't often it started getting weaker or as someone said our engine looked tight and at the end of the day a mild jolt my words I'm terrible with explaining ... only threw one code also saw a couple of drips of antifreeze on ground could that be the heater core or is the radiator bad too I'm thinking. Inspection ran out 9 15 new battery just put in it and we have the heater core. Just purchased. When we signed title it was running. We smelled alot of starting fluid or ether not sure but it stayed running for a while until we turner it off. Never moved it. It over heated but stayed ish over the center mark the whole time we were purchasing. Tried the starting fluid again. Think I'm doing it right. Watched many videos and trying again in morning. Windows randomly go down. 2 x when obd ii was hooked up again the only code was p0300. Checking the list below in morning. Could it still be a fuel issue; Pump, filter, fuse, injectors? And it has failed it's emissions test several times I saw on carfax over the years and I believe once in 2015. We didn't test/cant as of now. Has been sitting atleast since 9/15 when the inspection ran out. Battery was dead when we got it bought a nice new one and we have been leaving the negative un hooked so the random alarm will stop going off not major but cops may get called for no reason with Noone within 20 feet of the vehicle to make it go off

With a grain of salt:
Things were TOLD have been replaced :
Water pump
Timing belt
Tensioner
Thermostat
Coolant temp sensor

Things we think could that it could be wrong:
Crank speed sensor
Crankshaft posit. Sen.
Distributor
Tachometer signal
Coolant/radiator sens.
Throttle positioning sensor
N80 valve
MAF sensor
Tune up
ECM?
Vacuum leak
Camshaft sensor or chain
Ignition control module/ coil
No oil around coils???
I believe a cylinder wash due to starting then turning off when it's cold dropping a couple drops of oil where the coils or plugs go

This is why I am stuck. All tests that I can do will be done tomorrow just bought it for transportation to my Dr's I have a deadly degenerative disease. I'm trying to spend the least in testing and the easiest on this tiny area.

Also the center panel has many and some thick lines going through it. Seen a few drops of almost new looking antifreeze under after sitting over night.

3 times the windows all 4 went down 2 of which the obd ii was hooked up and then the third hours later when I turn on the ignition key.

Did not throw a p0321 or P0322 or any other codes JUST p0300.. We used the obd ii

Cannot yet confirm if parts from previous owner were replace or even when. No records. All inside lights work and doesn't dim when cranking. I saw a video with the air flow and starter fluid I guess they started it somehow I worry they used too much starting fluid no signs of issues from it yet. However it stayed running when they did never shut back off. Now it REALLY won't start. But she tries and you get a glimpse she will and nothing. We are trying not to crank it but so much without knowing the condition of some parts.

Same issue.... js 2001 130k miles