TFSI 2.0t PCV valve/ oil separator
#1
TFSI 2.0t PCV valve/ oil separator
I'm posting this to hopefully save someone the $200 or more to repair this issue and the time it took me to figure it all out.
Total time it should take you is 20min. Research, drive time and labor took me 2 days.
If you own this:
My check engine light recently came on and had sucking noise when removing dipstick. So took it in for diag. Shop said the PCV valve has failed but should be warranty. Took car to dealer, they said the campaign for the PCV does not apply to this car so they would have to charge me $130 to diagnose it again, plus labor, plus the $90 part. I purchased the part and went home to replace it myself. Found out they sold me the PCV for the FSI motor (2008.5 and older). Crap!
Did some internet searching and found the proper PCV (part# 06h-103-495-e) for 2008.5 and newer.
Sells for $190 at dealer! Damn! Took the one off my car and disassembled the diaphragm.
Torn diaphragm.
More Googling found just the diaphragm kit (part# 917-064) available at Autozone for $20.
Got the new part. The diaphragm and cap are the same but the spring and spring plate are different. The spring is too strong and the plate has clips for the spring.
Do not use these new parts!
Only use the new cap and diaphragm.
Started the car and no more sucking noise when pulling the dipstick! Sweet.
FYI. No need to remove the whole PCV assembly. Just get a small flat-head screwdriver and a hook pick to carefully pry the cap off.
Total time it should take you is 20min. Research, drive time and labor took me 2 days.
If you own this:
My check engine light recently came on and had sucking noise when removing dipstick. So took it in for diag. Shop said the PCV valve has failed but should be warranty. Took car to dealer, they said the campaign for the PCV does not apply to this car so they would have to charge me $130 to diagnose it again, plus labor, plus the $90 part. I purchased the part and went home to replace it myself. Found out they sold me the PCV for the FSI motor (2008.5 and older). Crap!
Did some internet searching and found the proper PCV (part# 06h-103-495-e) for 2008.5 and newer.
Sells for $190 at dealer! Damn! Took the one off my car and disassembled the diaphragm.
Torn diaphragm.
More Googling found just the diaphragm kit (part# 917-064) available at Autozone for $20.
Got the new part. The diaphragm and cap are the same but the spring and spring plate are different. The spring is too strong and the plate has clips for the spring.
Do not use these new parts!
Only use the new cap and diaphragm.
Started the car and no more sucking noise when pulling the dipstick! Sweet.
FYI. No need to remove the whole PCV assembly. Just get a small flat-head screwdriver and a hook pick to carefully pry the cap off.
#4
I have same history as Grant, 3/17/13, dealer shop indicates oils separator damaged, may have caused irreparable damage to turbo. Repair estimate $2,500. So I opt to replace PCV as first step. Discovered I have a 2.0 TFSI as opposed to a 2.0T FSI when shopping for parts.
Checked out diaphragm as suggested by Grant -- how do I know that it is damaged? No obvious tear etc -- and I don't know what the interior of a PCV is supposed to look like.
Checked out diaphragm as suggested by Grant -- how do I know that it is damaged? No obvious tear etc -- and I don't know what the interior of a PCV is supposed to look like.
#5
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2009 A3 S-Line, blown main seal because of a faulty PCV
I have 156K miles on my A3 and I was quite proud of myself when i replaced the intake manifold and cleaned the intake valves (Quite a difficult job for a novice).
I wish that I would have had the insight to replace the PCV valve, at that time, which looks like an easy job and the part is relatively cheap.
Unfortunately, the main seal blew out because of excessive pressure caused by the failed PCV valve. The oil leak started a couple of days before the check engine light came on. I noticed the leak when I was changing the oil and planned on looking into it further on the weekend. On Saturday morning my check engine light came on and the rest is history.
If you have a car with these kind of miles, my guess 100K+, do yourself a favor and replace that valve, pronto. An ounce worth of prevention here.
Now I will be having the main seal replaced, as well as clutch service, etc.
Hope this helps someone save some $$$.
I wish that I would have had the insight to replace the PCV valve, at that time, which looks like an easy job and the part is relatively cheap.
Unfortunately, the main seal blew out because of excessive pressure caused by the failed PCV valve. The oil leak started a couple of days before the check engine light came on. I noticed the leak when I was changing the oil and planned on looking into it further on the weekend. On Saturday morning my check engine light came on and the rest is history.
If you have a car with these kind of miles, my guess 100K+, do yourself a favor and replace that valve, pronto. An ounce worth of prevention here.
Now I will be having the main seal replaced, as well as clutch service, etc.
Hope this helps someone save some $$$.
#6
Rust Consulting - Oil Consumption Settlement > mainpage > Home
James
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