Omaralt

so i've been a long time bmw owner (current is 13 550i) and interesting in getting a new s5. my local dealer has two 2013 S5's with 6 spd manuals. both have MSRPs around $58K. i'm used to negotiating BMWs, which is really simple. i'm having a hard time with this.

-what price should i aim for? considering they have a few 14's, are there deals to be had on the 13's? should i go for a 14 (any improvements?)
-leasing doesnt seem to work well with audi. on my current lease i have a MF of .00076 and a residual on of 59% on a 74K BMW. my lease payment for 15k/miles a year is only $760 + tax. are there special financing rates if i decide to purchase?

thanks for any help, never had an audi before so not sure where to start. wanted to get some advice before i contacted the dealer. thanks

ChipB

In my experience working with an Audi dealer is about the same as working with a BMW dealer - actually in my experience of buying four BMWs and four Audis over the years I've generally had "less friendly" negotiations with BMW dealers than Audi. As a starting point do some research on dealer cost for the car with the options. You should be able to negotiate a couple grand off MSRP, especially for the '13 model year that they have in stock. One other thing to consider - if you are a member of the Audi Car Club for 6 months or more you can get an automatic 6% off MSRP - it's a much better deal than what the BMW Car Club of America has for purchase or lease of a new or CPO car.

lmariorod

Deal with the dealership's internet person. And order if you don't mind the wait. Get the car the way you want it, not what you settle for on their lot. Pricing is so much more neg. when ordered.

The '14 has Drive Select and Advance Key as standard now. Whereas it was optional on the '13 PP but included with the Prestige.

I've had success using Amex/Zag or USAA, you'll get pricing very close to the Audi Car Club without the membership fee or wait.

You'll also qualify for Conquest cash coming from a BMW,MB,Lexus or other lux brand.

MichaelB_1969

I would say you should be able to buy a new S5 for between $250 - $1000 over dealer invoice.

tr3ndsetr

- Get the invoice price from Cars.com and Edmunds True Market Value as well as invoice price.
- If financing, check your credit score ahead of time at AnnualCreditReport.com. Look for FICA. If over 719 you will have no issues getting the best rate available to you.
- Google Lowest car loans.
- I applied ahead of time for credit check at 2 Audi dealers I was interested in working with. ( They do not prefer you do that, but I meant business, and since Im paying with my money, I was doing it my way ) . At the time ( June 2013) Audi was offering 2.9% for 48 months, but I found Bank of America offering 1.8% for 48 months. Approval is instant online when you fill a short application.

- After figuring out the exact options and colors I wanted, I headed to Audi dealer #1 in Princeton NJ for a test drive, and to check over the options and color combination I was interested in.
- I took a couple days to get my head straight. All the options seem fantastic, and it was mind boggling to know what I wanted at the dealer. I really needed to go away and think what I really would use, over what would be nice to have in case i might want the feature down the road. The annoying thing with Audi, with some of the option packages, sometimes you have to get 5 things you dont want, to the get the one thing you do want. Suddenly your car costs more than base RS5. Grrrr.
- I ended up getting few options, and pimping my ride aftermarket, but that's me.
- I called Bell Audi NJ dealer #2 and spoke to Ryan Schmidt on the phone. I told him I was looking for an exact spec, and it had to be exact. He said he didnt have a 13, but I could order a 14 instead. I asked if he could beat invoice. He suggested I come for a drive. I told him I already drove the car, and was ready to buy with cash at Princeton, but if he wants the deal, Ill come in now and sign. He agreed. ( I mentioned all my facts from cars.com, Edmunds, took the printouts, etc )
- I went in my old Audi A4, qualified for $1000 loyalty program, Paid $3K deposit on Amex ( to collect some points ) , and ordered my car. The transaction and negotiation was super fun, and super smooth. Ryan was fantastic and instantly agreed. He just said 1 thing to me, But the car from me and not Princeton and Ill sell it to you for the price you want. I asked him if he could do $100 less, and he said yes ( I should have said $300 or $5 )

- He knew I was serious when I told him to find my Credit application at the fax machine.
- The only thing with pre order is a car loan from the bank is only valid for 30 days. So when the car arrived 8 weeks later, I had to go back online and fill out a new application, but I got the same apr. Get the name and ext of the guy with followup call. he will communicate the rate to the dealer, and they handle everything for you.
- The service manager tried to sell me some products ( tire insurance, Low jack , extended warranty etc ) when the car arrived, at the close of the sale. I turned it all down. ....
So, I bought my car $100 less than invoice at 1.8% apr over 48 months for a 2014 Audi A5. I put an additional $20K cash deposit down at pick up, and my car payment is $700/mo

tr3ndsetr

Forgot 1 thing, The dealers kept telling me they work with all the banks and get the best loans, but in the end they were still only offering 2.9% for new cars. Over 5 yrs 1% less equates to an extra $1500 on a $50K car. So it makes a difference if you qualify for the loan outside, yourself. The way its processed is as if you got the loan at the dealership. A confirmation number is issued which you hand over to the dealer, and they place a call, and thats it.

Its imperative to know what the exact cost of the car will be before you sign.

- So,one other thing I forgot to mention, make sure you ask up front for a list of all the closing costs, and cross check those numbers with another dealer. Here they are:

Total Price of vehicle (before tax)
Sales Tax ( you have to pay this)
NJ Tire Fee ( ask to waiver about $10 )
Supplement Titling Fee ( ask to waiver about $200)
Registration Title Fee $400 ( You have to pay this, but you get free registration for the first 4 yrs )
Documentation Fee - This should not be more than $399
( Includes a Computer Fee $99, Clerical Expense $199, and Document Delivery Fee $99 ) - i think you have to pay this also


at the end they discount any loyalty programs, after tax is paid.

Good luck, hope this helps in closing a good deal.