Subwoofer Install
04-12-2008, 11:50 AM
#12
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Re: Subwoofer Install
Rear deck remains unchanged as far as appearances. The subwoofer drops right into the original hole. The entire stock subwoofer and housing needs to be removed. The new subwoofer is actually installed facing up towards the car as opposed the stock, which faces into the truck.
04-12-2008, 11:52 AM
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Re: Nice work! I think we have the same setup (minus) the subwoofer.
Not much improvement to the midbass. Where I see the most improvement is on the low end. Low end now sounds much stronger and cleaner.
The Dynamat I think made a world of difference.
The Dynamat I think made a world of difference.
04-12-2008, 12:05 PM
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Re: Will the factory amp power the JL adequetly?
The factory amp has just enough to power my 10W1V2. Low end sounds much stronger and cleaner. Iwas worried about power, which is why I did not go wit the more poerful 10W3V3.
I think that the factory amp is sufficient as long as you are not looking to go thumpin down the street. For $120, driver plus Dynamat, I think the improvement in the low end sound is worth the money.
I think that the factory amp is sufficient as long as you are not looking to go thumpin down the street. For $120, driver plus Dynamat, I think the improvement in the low end sound is worth the money.
04-13-2008, 12:29 PM
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Excellent. It is amazing just how much better the bass response is. The JLs
move a ton of air and you can really feel the deep bass notes. My gripe is with the increase in license plate rattling though. For this reason I was thinking of going with a lightweight fiberglass enclosure (also it will lower the frequency response somewhat). For not having an enclosure though, the B&O system (with added JL sub) sounds very good. Credit to the dynamat for sealing the rear deck properly though. So many holes that it's somewhat amazing that the factory 8" sub sounded decent.
04-13-2008, 12:32 PM
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I'll chime in. It's a must. I swear by dynamat, and even keeping the factory sub
would realize a real benefit in deeper and more solid bass with dynamat installed. There are large holes in the rear deck (including where the trunk lid hinges are that should definitely be sealed. Dynamat basically minimizes the resonances that vibrate through the metal panels which if left un-done lowers or cancels out bass.
08-11-2008, 10:27 AM
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4phm Subwoofer - anyone?
All,
I am looking to replace my S5 sub-woofer. I am going to keep the stock amp, but would love to move to a 4ohm low-profile sub. My question is, will the B&O amplifier support a 4ohm load, or will it blow from the higher current?
I saw a couple of posts about sub-woofer replacements, and one post was referring to a 4ohm replacement.
So - anyone replace the stock sub with a 4ohm one and kept the stock amp? Any issues, is the stock amp ok?
Thanks!
John ('08 S5 took deliver in Nov!)
I am looking to replace my S5 sub-woofer. I am going to keep the stock amp, but would love to move to a 4ohm low-profile sub. My question is, will the B&O amplifier support a 4ohm load, or will it blow from the higher current?
I saw a couple of posts about sub-woofer replacements, and one post was referring to a 4ohm replacement.
So - anyone replace the stock sub with a 4ohm one and kept the stock amp? Any issues, is the stock amp ok?
Thanks!
John ('08 S5 took deliver in Nov!)
08-24-2015, 09:38 AM
#20
AudiWorld Member
Is it possible to repost the pics for this?
As good as the stock BO system sounds, it falls a little short when it comes to providing that deep sounding bass some audiophiles like myself enjoy. To remedy this, I decided to swap out the stock subwoofer for something a little more substantial.
There were many options to chose from, but I ultimately decided on a 10" JL Audio driver (10W1V2). I also considered the Pioneer TS-SW2541D (a shallow mount driver), but it only came in 4 ohms. Stock was 8 ohms, and I wanted to keep things the same since I planned on using the stock amp. I also considered the 10W3V3, but it's about 2 inches deeper than the 10W1V2, which meant it would have stuck out that much more in the truck. Moreover, because I decided to continue to use the stock amp, I wouldn't have been able to take advantage for the more powerful 10W3V3 anyway.
For my purpose, i.e., to improve the bass over stock and not go thumpin down the road, the 10W1V2 worked out great. The lower bass sound is now vastly improved over stock.
Here are some pictures from the install:
Stock subwoofer from the truck
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2106.jpg">
Stock subwoofer housing after rear deck removed
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2109.jpg">
Close-up of stock subwoofer and its housing
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2111.jpg">
Another close-up from the other side
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2112.jpg">
JL Audio 10W1V2
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2115.jpg">
10W1V2 installed - truck view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2113.jpg">
10W1V2 installed - inside view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2114.jpg">
Dynanmat Extreme
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2118.jpg">
Dynanmat Extreme
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2119.jpg">
Completed install - truck view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2120.jpg">
The install took about 1.5 hours, as the enitre rear panel and upper rear side panels needed to be removed to gain access.
CAUTION: When you remove the rear speaker cover over the subwoofer, be extremely carefull. The tabs break very easily. Trust me... I broke one!!!
There were many options to chose from, but I ultimately decided on a 10" JL Audio driver (10W1V2). I also considered the Pioneer TS-SW2541D (a shallow mount driver), but it only came in 4 ohms. Stock was 8 ohms, and I wanted to keep things the same since I planned on using the stock amp. I also considered the 10W3V3, but it's about 2 inches deeper than the 10W1V2, which meant it would have stuck out that much more in the truck. Moreover, because I decided to continue to use the stock amp, I wouldn't have been able to take advantage for the more powerful 10W3V3 anyway.
For my purpose, i.e., to improve the bass over stock and not go thumpin down the road, the 10W1V2 worked out great. The lower bass sound is now vastly improved over stock.
Here are some pictures from the install:
Stock subwoofer from the truck
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2106.jpg">
Stock subwoofer housing after rear deck removed
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2109.jpg">
Close-up of stock subwoofer and its housing
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2111.jpg">
Another close-up from the other side
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2112.jpg">
JL Audio 10W1V2
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2115.jpg">
10W1V2 installed - truck view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2113.jpg">
10W1V2 installed - inside view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2114.jpg">
Dynanmat Extreme
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2118.jpg">
Dynanmat Extreme
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2119.jpg">
Completed install - truck view
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91515/dscf2120.jpg">
The install took about 1.5 hours, as the enitre rear panel and upper rear side panels needed to be removed to gain access.
CAUTION: When you remove the rear speaker cover over the subwoofer, be extremely carefull. The tabs break very easily. Trust me... I broke one!!!