Upgrading the Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer
03-30-2008, 05:11 PM
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Upgrading the Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer
While the Bang & Olufsen sounds excellent for a factory system. One of the shortfalls IMO of the B&O system is the subwoofer. It uses a relatively inexpensive paper cone woofer which sounds good for what it is, but can be greatly improved. I liked the mid-highs but I was looking for a bit more low end, with a higher quality driver that can reproduce the deeper (30 hz range) tones that the B&O seems to struggle with. At this point, I'm not looking to get the overwelming bass of 2 - 12" subwoofers, and even upgrading the amplifier is something that I want to stay away from. My goal is to keep weight down near factory levels, keeping the factory amplification, and improving the quality of the subwoofer. I figure the limits that I am imposing on myself will help me to keep from going too far on this project. The last thing that I want to do is have a car that pushes 5000 watts and an upgraded battery and alternator to cope.
I typically listen to a wide range of music but prefer music that has deep bass content somewhere in the track. After much contemplation, I went forward and removed the factory 8" subwoofer and found it to use a very shallow basket (plastic) and a basic paper cone. It is mounted inverted in the 9" rear deck cavity. Since the cutout is a perfect 9" hole, it leaves a lot of opportunity open for those of us that want to step up to a good solid 10" woofer. I used plenty of Extreme Dynamat to seal off any holes in the rear deck and to minimize vibration from the larger subwoofer. Anyone that has used dynamat before, knows the importance of it's use. It is a must - period. The difference in sound compared to not using it makes it a very worthwhile investment.
There are two subwoofers that I am experimenting on at the moment. At first, I looked at MB Quart, but figured it wouldn't quite give me the deep bass extension that I was desiring. I have always liked the higher end Polk Audio subwoofers and they have a new model that is supposed to be excellent. I have also really liked the clean sound of JL Audio subwoofers and ultimately purchased the 10W3V3 and the 10IB4. The 10W3V3 (pictured) seems to be a good compromise mid-range level JL Audio driver. It is intalled in the car now and the bass sounds much more authoritive and even in an infinite baffle setup sounds much more accurate in the lower levels. It creates enough volume and air movement to be felt/heard while not overpowering the rest of the factory components. To sound it's best though, it requires a sealed or ported enclosure with .625 cubic feet of space. Before I go into building a custom fiberglass enclosure, I want to try out the 10IB4 because it was specifically designed by JL Audio with Infinite Baffle in mind. The benefits of using it in this way, allows the trunk space to stay near the same, and weight is not increased from building a custom box. The downside is the bass is not quite as accurate but it still will easily outperform the factory setup. More to follow when I swap in the 10IB4.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14368/bo_project_6.jpg">
<b> Hard to believe that this 10" Subwoofer fits in the same location as the factory 8" B&O. </b>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14368/bo_project_3.jpg">
I typically listen to a wide range of music but prefer music that has deep bass content somewhere in the track. After much contemplation, I went forward and removed the factory 8" subwoofer and found it to use a very shallow basket (plastic) and a basic paper cone. It is mounted inverted in the 9" rear deck cavity. Since the cutout is a perfect 9" hole, it leaves a lot of opportunity open for those of us that want to step up to a good solid 10" woofer. I used plenty of Extreme Dynamat to seal off any holes in the rear deck and to minimize vibration from the larger subwoofer. Anyone that has used dynamat before, knows the importance of it's use. It is a must - period. The difference in sound compared to not using it makes it a very worthwhile investment.
There are two subwoofers that I am experimenting on at the moment. At first, I looked at MB Quart, but figured it wouldn't quite give me the deep bass extension that I was desiring. I have always liked the higher end Polk Audio subwoofers and they have a new model that is supposed to be excellent. I have also really liked the clean sound of JL Audio subwoofers and ultimately purchased the 10W3V3 and the 10IB4. The 10W3V3 (pictured) seems to be a good compromise mid-range level JL Audio driver. It is intalled in the car now and the bass sounds much more authoritive and even in an infinite baffle setup sounds much more accurate in the lower levels. It creates enough volume and air movement to be felt/heard while not overpowering the rest of the factory components. To sound it's best though, it requires a sealed or ported enclosure with .625 cubic feet of space. Before I go into building a custom fiberglass enclosure, I want to try out the 10IB4 because it was specifically designed by JL Audio with Infinite Baffle in mind. The benefits of using it in this way, allows the trunk space to stay near the same, and weight is not increased from building a custom box. The downside is the bass is not quite as accurate but it still will easily outperform the factory setup. More to follow when I swap in the 10IB4.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14368/bo_project_6.jpg">
<b> Hard to believe that this 10" Subwoofer fits in the same location as the factory 8" B&O. </b>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14368/bo_project_3.jpg">
03-30-2008, 05:27 PM
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Yes, obviously. I don't have available test equipment to test actual SPL levels, roll-offs, etc
Take it for what it is I guess. Happy with the improvement, and I am still in the evaluation phase. At least people can see what is under the rear deck and one of the options that they have, should they desire more.
03-30-2008, 05:32 PM
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Brilliant! Thanks for keeping us in the know! Update us with anymore findings/ impressions.
Can we all just create a budget for you to use to find more ways to improve this car?
Does the magnet drop down into the trunk? I would probably do a free air sub, if you find the next (B4) woofer sounds much better than the paper factory, and doesn't cut into trunk space.
I suppose you would think of this mod in the time you had no radio when you waited for a replacement amp. Btw- did your tint shop ever cover that for you?
Does the magnet drop down into the trunk? I would probably do a free air sub, if you find the next (B4) woofer sounds much better than the paper factory, and doesn't cut into trunk space.
I suppose you would think of this mod in the time you had no radio when you waited for a replacement amp. Btw- did your tint shop ever cover that for you?
03-30-2008, 05:38 PM
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You're absolutely right :) The lack of sound for 4-5 weeks gave me plenty of time
to contemplate my options - lol Tint shop still hasn't paid me in full. They dropped the ball with ordering the amp through their dealership, so I visited my own and ordered it, after getting agreement that they would reimburse me. Turned out to be a $1580.00 tint job. They made the first payment, maybe by the end of next month they can have me fully paid off.
Will let you know how I like the other subwoofer, also the 10IB4 will fit better with less depth. I have the 10W3V3 mountedfrom underneath at the moment, and the magnet depth is nearly 6". I'm hoping I like the 10IB4 because it will save a lot of effort and time with a building an enclosure. I'll try to grab some more pics, so you guys can see.
Will let you know how I like the other subwoofer, also the 10IB4 will fit better with less depth. I have the 10W3V3 mountedfrom underneath at the moment, and the magnet depth is nearly 6". I'm hoping I like the 10IB4 because it will save a lot of effort and time with a building an enclosure. I'll try to grab some more pics, so you guys can see.
03-30-2008, 05:38 PM
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Except for the size of the cone and the woofer cabinet size.
All else being equal, it will give you better bass. The only real issue is controlling the vibration and minimizing the cross over frequencises, although this is a minimal issue with a sub. Choosing the sub which matches your bass preferences is very important.
Way to go quatt. What's next, a carbon fibre fuel tank
Way to go quatt. What's next, a carbon fibre fuel tank
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03-30-2008, 06:26 PM
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That's not true - you get an attenuated signal - that is not necessarly better
just a perceived difference due to the attenuation.
A lot of engineering goes into the Bose and B&O systems to give flat response
Clearly those that prefer that sound are in a minority
A lot of engineering goes into the Bose and B&O systems to give flat response
Clearly those that prefer that sound are in a minority