2002 allroad suspension
#11
AudiWorld Member
Hi, The leak will be on the lower bend of the airbag (the curved part) so when the car is at level 1 the cracks are on the curve and forced open, but lift the car the cracks move up to the straighter section of the airbag and close, use soapy water and either leave the wheel on and sit the car back at level 1 or with the wheel removed try to support the car on the lower ball joint (CAREFULLY!!) as if it were to sit at level 1 with the wheel on.
the other corner will lower to try and keep the car level so good bags may also sink lower, but not to the bump stops. Park in jack mode to dissable the system and only the leaking corner will sink all the way down. the other corners will look lower due to it carrying more weight but it should not sink all the way to the bump stop,
hope this helps
regards
Andy
the other corner will lower to try and keep the car level so good bags may also sink lower, but not to the bump stops. Park in jack mode to dissable the system and only the leaking corner will sink all the way down. the other corners will look lower due to it carrying more weight but it should not sink all the way to the bump stop,
hope this helps
regards
Andy
#12
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the input, crease leak does make sense.
I got the Arnott replacement bag and will try to install it when the weather becomes
more favourable here in TO and, and this is really AND, I can overcome the pinch bolt.
My first attempt found the bolt frozen to a point where I got an impression that the head
would rather twist off than the bolt turn so I started machining a chunk of steel to make a tool to press the bolt out. And the bolt is getting ATF/aceton bath every day...
I got the Arnott replacement bag and will try to install it when the weather becomes
more favourable here in TO and, and this is really AND, I can overcome the pinch bolt.
My first attempt found the bolt frozen to a point where I got an impression that the head
would rather twist off than the bolt turn so I started machining a chunk of steel to make a tool to press the bolt out. And the bolt is getting ATF/aceton bath every day...
#13
AudiWorld Member
Thanks for the input, crease leak does make sense.
I got the Arnott replacement bag and will try to install it when the weather becomes
more favourable here in TO and, and this is really AND, I can overcome the pinch bolt.
My first attempt found the bolt frozen to a point where I got an impression that the head
would rather twist off than the bolt turn so I started machining a chunk of steel to make a tool to press the bolt out. And the bolt is getting ATF/aceton bath every day...
I got the Arnott replacement bag and will try to install it when the weather becomes
more favourable here in TO and, and this is really AND, I can overcome the pinch bolt.
My first attempt found the bolt frozen to a point where I got an impression that the head
would rather twist off than the bolt turn so I started machining a chunk of steel to make a tool to press the bolt out. And the bolt is getting ATF/aceton bath every day...
i made a steel plate with 2 cut outs to protect the upper arm rubbers and then get a flame on it to heat, once it turns you can drive it out with your clamp press, it wont budge before it turns
regards
Andy
#14
No need to play with pinch bolt if it doesn't come out easily. Loosen the upper control arms bolts at the top(upper bay engine mount); it's two16mm bolts with 16mm nuts. You need two wrenches, one to counter hold the bolt. Proceed with regular instructions of removal.
After the suspension assembly is freed up from the engine bay and lower control arm bolt you can remove those upper control arm bolts all the way by twisting the air string/strut to either side works for the corresponding bolt. As you will see, at least one of the upper control bolts cannot come out without twisting the air spring/strut because the bolt would hit the wheel well.
Important: at reinstallation do not tighten the upper control bolts all the way. You have to do it with wheels on ground after you're done and the airspring got air in it(put the car in level 2 or 3 and tighten the bolts).
After the suspension assembly is freed up from the engine bay and lower control arm bolt you can remove those upper control arm bolts all the way by twisting the air string/strut to either side works for the corresponding bolt. As you will see, at least one of the upper control bolts cannot come out without twisting the air spring/strut because the bolt would hit the wheel well.
Important: at reinstallation do not tighten the upper control bolts all the way. You have to do it with wheels on ground after you're done and the airspring got air in it(put the car in level 2 or 3 and tighten the bolts).
Last edited by indoor; 11-18-2014 at 12:32 PM.
#15
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Heat is the best tool to remove those pinch bbolts they can be stuck fast!!,
i made a steel plate with 2 cut outs to protect the upper arm rubbers and then get a flame on it to heat, once it turns you can drive it out with your clamp press, it wont budge before it turns
regards
Andy
i made a steel plate with 2 cut outs to protect the upper arm rubbers and then get a flame on it to heat, once it turns you can drive it out with your clamp press, it wont budge before it turns
regards
Andy
Stan
#16
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No need to play with pinch bolt if it doesn't come out easily. Loosen the upper control arms bolts at the top(upper bay engine mount); it's two16mm bolts with 16mm nuts. You need two wrenches, one to counter hold the bolt. Proceed with regular instructions of removal.
After the suspension assembly is freed up from the engine bay and lower control arm bolt you can remove those upper control arm bolts all the way by twisting the air string/strut to either side works for the corresponding bolt. As you will see, at least one of the upper control bolts cannot come out without twisting the air spring/strut because the bolt would hit the wheel well.
Important: at reinstallation do not tighten the upper control bolts all the way. You have to do it with wheels on ground after you're done and the airspring got air in it(put the car in level 2 or 3 and tighten the bolts).
After the suspension assembly is freed up from the engine bay and lower control arm bolt you can remove those upper control arm bolts all the way by twisting the air string/strut to either side works for the corresponding bolt. As you will see, at least one of the upper control bolts cannot come out without twisting the air spring/strut because the bolt would hit the wheel well.
Important: at reinstallation do not tighten the upper control bolts all the way. You have to do it with wheels on ground after you're done and the airspring got air in it(put the car in level 2 or 3 and tighten the bolts).
I intend to get both of them out, no matter what, the new ones are ready.
Not sure how much swearing will be involved though...
Thanks
#17
'Yes, I know it is an option but I really like the challenge and having control over my bolts :-)' that was exactly my thinking going into the job. And I bought a long breaker bar and soaked the pinch bolt for several days. It turned out that was not enough and the blot broke off on both ends. At that time I didn't have an oxy torch(propane doesn't qualify, I did use it, but made no difference) or an air hammer. So I drilled the bolt out. It took 4 hours.
#18
Bentley's publishing did a video on how to replace control arms, and explained how to get a stuck pinch bolt out with air hammer (~1:00 mark). No torch needed, but requires air compressor and air hammer.
#19
Hi Stan,
I just installed a new compressor on my 2001 allroad, but it doesn't seem to be starting up, and my shocks are all deflated. I called Arnott, and they said that the compressor should just start working automatically, but that's not the case. Do you, (or anyone else reading) know if there is a trick to getting the compressor to kick on after installation?
Thanks for reading,
George
I just installed a new compressor on my 2001 allroad, but it doesn't seem to be starting up, and my shocks are all deflated. I called Arnott, and they said that the compressor should just start working automatically, but that's not the case. Do you, (or anyone else reading) know if there is a trick to getting the compressor to kick on after installation?
Thanks for reading,
George
#20
air compressor not starting after replacement
Agree with Amiram. Also check out with a VCDS for function as well. If the springs or pipes leak, the pump runs and runs - and then overheats. The compressor in ARs have a over heat - thermal shut off. VCDS will log that.
Repeated sinking is most likely a crease in the bag starting to go.
Repeated sinking is most likely a crease in the bag starting to go.
I just installed a new compressor on my 2001 allroad, but it doesn't seem to be starting up, and my shocks are all deflated. I called Arnott, and they said that the compressor should just start working automatically, but that's not the case. Do you, (or anyone else reading) know if there is a trick to getting the compressor to kick on after installation?
Thanks for reading,
George