John535is

This is the pipe running across the rear of the engine between the 2 cylinder heads. Mine started leaking badly last night. (6:00pm in Sydney, ambient temperature on the motorway was still 31.5 C or 89F). It's so jammed in at the rear of the engine it's hard to see if it's just the O ring seals or the cylinder head water pipe that has split. Either way, the pipe has to come out. Anyone have a step by step or a link?
I read on another forum to pull the motor, but that seems a bit excessive to replace 1 pipe/
2004 - 2.7TT (190,000km/120,000M)

G0to60

I don't have a step by step but I'm pretty sure you can do it without taking out the motor. What I would do is take a close look at a picture of an engine that has been taken out to see where all the connections are. That will give you a mental picture while you're digging around behind there.

Here's one that I like:

jonlowe

There are two temp sending units on that pipe that seal with o-rings. One is on each side of the engine. You can see them if you disconnect the SAI hoses at the combo valves. I'd check those first before trying to remove the pipe.
The one on the drivers side (LHD) is not very hard to get to if you unbolt the expansion tank. The one on the passenger side is harder but can be done once you get the MAF out of the way. They are held in with plastic clips.

Prospeeder

You should be sure the one rear chain tensioner or valve cover are not leaking, they will leak right onto the water manifold orings and swell them and make the leak you have.

Its a big job, everything must come off the top, including the intake manifold, SAI valves and what not. Then just unbolt, and pry it back and replace all the orings, including the ones going into the block on the backside the front of the block.

John535is

Thanks guys. Sadly its the coolant return pipe from the RH turbo. Comes up in a metal pipe from a banjo bolt on the turbo, then has a rubber section permanently swaged where it bends underneath the coolant pipe I thought was leaking. The banjo bolt is buried so far down the back, I can't see it but can touch it.
So far I have found 3 solutions.
1. Remove the heat shield and banjo bolt using a stubby 19mm off set spanner and swear a lot.
2. use a die grinder to cut off the swage connection and clamp a new rubber hose to it (if option 1 does not work).
3. Remove the engine (apparently thats what the Audi repair option is).

Seems to be another metal pipe just above the banjo bold making it hard to get a spanner on the banjo bolt.
Anyone have an image of the engine out with the turbos connected so i can see what i am dealing with?

jonlowe

I don't know if there is anything here that will help you or not:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/allro...ads/4499.phtml

At the bottom of the thread below are some modified wrenches people have made to access the bolts:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/allro...8.phtml#219580

The people over on the allroad forum at quattroworld.com have done a lot of turbo work, so they may be able to give you suggestions.

John535is

Thanks for that info.
I now have a similar 'modified' spanner. It's ugly but it did the job to remove the return line.

jonlowe

Glad it helped.

John535is

A big thanks to jonlowe, GOto60 and Prospeeder for your help on this one.

If anyone else attempts this, sacrificing a 19mm spanner to make it shorter, offset and thinner appears to be the only way to get the banjo bolt 06A145541K off while the engine is still in the car.
After I reinstalled the new line and had difficulty putting any real torque on the banjo bolt, if you remove the kombi valve you have a direct vertical line to the top of the bolt. An allen key head would be a better bolt for future access. Look up part number 06A145541J, same banjo bolt but with an allen key head instead of 19mm hex head. (hindsight is a wonderful thing!)

If I ever have to do this job again I would change it.

05AudiAllroad

So The dreaded coolant line going to the driver side turbo is leaking. I'm thinking to just cut the metal line and put a new rubber hose on and put some clamps on it BUT I see several people have been able to take this off with a lot of (insert descriptive words here) and some modified wrenches... I have modified two wrenches and got the angled wrench on but unable to turn and the offset wrench just seems a bit to "large" and angled and I can't even get it on the banjo bolt.

First question, I assume you can reach this from the top, see pic#1 &2, anything else to move out of the way, If I can?

Second Question, Here are the wrenches I modified... can you post some pics of your wrenches that you modified to get this stupid Banjo bolt off WITHOUT removing the engine...

And why oh why would they put a bolt in there you can't access... I saw the allen head (part# 06A145541J) which seems like it would make this job 1000% easier... I will replace the one in there now with this one....