Anyone replace the oil seal on the 2.7 sump turbo line in situ?
#1
Anyone replace the oil seal on the 2.7 sump turbo line in situ?
After replacing anything (and everything) that leaks on the 2.7TT I am down to the smallest leak on what appears to be the seal between one of the turbo oil lines and the sump.
I think the seal is just an O ring (p/n 078145757) if anyone can confirm that?
The real question is that there is not much room in there, if I drain the sump can I pull the oil line out and replace the seal with the engine in place?
Anyone done this?
I think the seal is just an O ring (p/n 078145757) if anyone can confirm that?
The real question is that there is not much room in there, if I drain the sump can I pull the oil line out and replace the seal with the engine in place?
Anyone done this?
#2
The lack of response is probably from the Latin you've used. Unless there is a background in legal, medical or language , "in situ" is somewhat extrodinary when referring to car repair.
But to answer your question. Yes, the engine can remain in place. To get adequate clearance for the bolts and pull the connection out of the oil pan you can drop the subframe down (but not remove it) by removing the the 2 forward subframe bolts. Do not remove the forward chassis brackets that the engine mounts are supported by. You will quickly go from in situ to periculosus. I suggest that you support the subframe from drooping to far to prevent straining the rear bushings that might lead to early failure.
Yes, that part number is correct. Sometimes the o-ring bore in the oil pan has porosity from the casting process. That can prevent even a new seal from being effective. In that case a replacement pan or a skill machinist is the answer. Good luck!
But to answer your question. Yes, the engine can remain in place. To get adequate clearance for the bolts and pull the connection out of the oil pan you can drop the subframe down (but not remove it) by removing the the 2 forward subframe bolts. Do not remove the forward chassis brackets that the engine mounts are supported by. You will quickly go from in situ to periculosus. I suggest that you support the subframe from drooping to far to prevent straining the rear bushings that might lead to early failure.
Yes, that part number is correct. Sometimes the o-ring bore in the oil pan has porosity from the casting process. That can prevent even a new seal from being effective. In that case a replacement pan or a skill machinist is the answer. Good luck!
#3
thanks for the reply Old School.
I was able to replace the O ring - all good. Did a 500km trip on, no leaks.
English language isn't always the same around the world. I am an electrical and building engineer, in Australia we use 'in situ' when doing installation instructions all the time. I got a lot of feedback once before when one of my instructions on a repair was to use a torch. Here a torch is a flashlight, I now know its different in the USA after the responses.
Or maybe I am just showing my age.
see-ya-latar-mate (Australian for good bye)
I was able to replace the O ring - all good. Did a 500km trip on, no leaks.
English language isn't always the same around the world. I am an electrical and building engineer, in Australia we use 'in situ' when doing installation instructions all the time. I got a lot of feedback once before when one of my instructions on a repair was to use a torch. Here a torch is a flashlight, I now know its different in the USA after the responses.
Or maybe I am just showing my age.
see-ya-latar-mate (Australian for good bye)
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