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1st pic looks like camshaft position sensor, not valve cover gasket. You will probably need a new sensor. Probably get a error code sooner or later and car will not run right.
2nd pick with the brown connector is the N75 valve that controls boost. That is critical to performance. Be careful if you broke the wastegate control connection. You could overboost and do serious damage to turbos or engine. Will probably go like hell just before that happens. If you must drive it then be very gentle on the throttle. Fix that one for sure.
Not sure what the third pic is, but sure someone will chime in that does.
1st pic looks like camshaft position sensor, not valve cover gasket. You will probably need a new sensor. Probably get a error code sooner or later and car will not run right.
2nd pick with the brown connector is the N75 valve that controls boost. That is critical to performance. Be careful if you broke the wastegate control connection. You could overboost and do serious damage to turbos or engine. Will probably go like hell just before that happens. If you must drive it then be very gentle on the throttle. Fix that one for sure.
Not sure what the third pic is, but sure someone will chime in that does.
For the wire in the 3rd pic, I'll just wait for a code to show up .
Looking for a good place to buy the N75 boost control valve.
I had a feeling the plug was for a camshaft sensor based on location.
It is the casting itself that broke. It seems like the connector is fine. It was just a pass-through for the wire. If this isn't actually inside the top of the head then I'll just epoxy it on to keep dirt out. Otherwise I'll replace the whole piece to keep oil in.
I pulled too hard on a hard plastic vacuum line and broke another plastic bit:
Got under the intake manifold. There's definitely a leak up here but it doesn't look like the after-run pump or hoses. There is a lot of buildup at one of the joints, but the leak doesn't appear to come from it.
So I had today off after nearly a month of not touching the engine bay and finally got the intake manifold swung way up and out of the way, enough to get both arms between the heads and get the pump/valve/hoses all out.
Inspecting them, they all appeared perfectly fine except for a bit of ancient coolant residue on two of the clamp points. Not the source of my leak.
So I put the pump assembly back in without clamping it, pull of the overflow tank input, and blow into it. I find a completely split rubber hose behind the engine that just happened to be aimed directly at the water pump:
I feel quite dumb for going through this whole process (and breaking so much unrelated stuff) only to find out that my problem was probably fixable without removing the intake manifold at all.
Originally Posted by stein3
Thanks a bunch. Hopefully I can extract the barb from the hard plastic line that it broke off in.
No luck removing the broken-off barb from the hard plastic line, so I'm just going to replace with rubber.
edit:
I took another work break. Removed the SAIP and traced the rubber hose to a crimp onto a hard line... Subaru spoiled me with their simple engines. Hopefully its a cheap line. I'm having a hard time finding it though.
Is there any sort of resource available to help search for parts by diagram? This is what I used for rebuilding my WRX:
Replacing the line is a real pain as to get to the bottom banjo bolt (p/n 06A145541K) gives little space to turn the spanner. I did the right side recently. After is did it and took most the skin off my knuckles I found out they make the banjo bolt with an allen key head which I think would work better. The banjo bolt is M14*1.5* 32mm.
The rubber hose has some mechanically swaged joint. If I was to this again I would get a small die grinder and cut the swaged joint, slide the old flexible hose off and replace it. The metal tube has a flange before the end so a hose clamp would work.
The rubber hose has some mechanically swaged joint. If I was to this again I would get a small die grinder and cut the swaged joint, slide the old flexible hose off and replace it. The metal tube has a flange before the end so a hose clamp would work.
Good to know. I've read of a few others doing this and I think this is the most favorable procedure for me. I've got a Dremel Flex-shaft but need to find a working Dremel to use it with. This should make it nice and easy to maneuver in the cramped engine bay.
04-14-2016, 05:51 PM
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