When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
While I wait for feedback and for a chance to test the pump I thought I would post this to make it clear which hoses I replaced. Here is a photo I've previously uploaded where I've outlined in red where the 4mm braided hoses I replaced are. The ones at the back were damaged for me, but their positions are approximate because you can't actually see them in the photo. The one at bottom left is not a braided hose, but mine was a little cracked and I figured it was easy to get to so why not replace it as well.
Last edited by Mr_Moustachio; 03-15-2015 at 12:07 PM.
OK, so I tested the pump motor again out of its housing by running cables straight from the battery. Nothing, just a few sparks once contact was made. Can anyone tell me what this means?
OK, so I tested the pump motor again out of its housing by running cables straight from the battery. Nothing, just a few sparks once contact was made. Can anyone tell me what this means?
If I had to guess, I would say the pump is seized. Did you try reversing polarity?
OK, so this morning I took the pump to an auto mechanic up the street, he tested it for me, and it is fine. Completely fine. Spins nicely, everything is grand. I have no idea what I was doing wrong when I tried to jump it from the battery, maybe my cables were no good... but anyway it works.
Today I put the pump back in, which was much easier than taking it out, and while I was in there checked the relay and fuse in the ECU box. Turns out you need to remove the driver's side window wiper and pull back the cover underneath it to access the rear bolt.
Once that was off I checked the fuse and relay. I tested the relay with a multimeter and it completed the circuit when given power, but the fuse was blown. Got a new fuse from autozone for $4, and plugged everything back in.
I only have the free version of vcds lite for now, so I couldn't run the output test, so I cleared the engine codes and will wait to see if it comes back once the car completes the readiness checks. Fingers crossed that this clears all of them...
If it does, then the cause of the codes must have been one of the frayed vacuum hoses, the blown fuse, or the nut that had fallen off the end of the air pump shaft. If all three codes come back, then there must be something wrong with the solenoid or combi valves. If I just get the cat code (16815), then I guess I will move on to the front oxygen sensor
Well, the SAI system is working fine, so I guess that between pulling the pump out and replacing the nut on the end of the shaft + a new fuse, everything is working again on that end. It does make a bit of a racket when you start it up, so maybe it is not spinning as smoothly as I had thought, but the first two cel codes stayed gone (17831, 17819) after clearing the codes so I'm pretty happy with that result.
But the code relating to the catalytic converter/ oxygen sensor (18615) came back yesterday. I've just dropped $100 to register my version of VCDS-lite with rosstech, and I understand that I can use this to determine whether or not the corresponding o2 sensor is bad. A few forum posts related to this coder have suggested that it is most likely the front driver's side sensor, and *probably* not the cat itself.
If anybody knows anything about replacing or diagnosing the sensors that would help me out a lot. In particular, I'd love some guidance on how to "log" the o2 sensors using VCDS...?
Last edited by Mr_Moustachio; 03-19-2015 at 12:08 PM.
Reason: edited for clarity
OK, so now "all" I need to do is to figure out what is causing code 16815 and clear it so that I can pass smog certification and finally get the title for my somehow-still-beloved allroad transferred into my name so that I legally own it. Here goes:
My current thinking is that either the front left o2 sensor is bad (bank 2, position 1) as I don't believe it has ever been replaced, or the bank 2 catalytic converter itself. I'm referring to the driver's side here. Thing is, it seems like VCDS-lite didn't allow to me precisely follow the directions in the above thread as I could not force the tests to start while on the "basic settings" screen for each of the relevant sub-controllers of the engine module (34, 36, 37, 46 etc). Most of them ran themselves while I was on the relevant screen, and told me things like "b1p1 OK" (bank 1, position 1 sensor OK), but the test never ran for bank 2, position 1. Similarly, when I check the readiness codes it tells me that everything "passed", including the catalytic converters... Does this merely mean that the tests completed, or does it actually mean that the cats are fine?
I don't know, I'm looking for ways to diagnose the problem but coming up short, I can't seem to find specific enough information that would teach me how to figure it out, and I just can't afford to pay an audi mechanic to do it right now... Please, if anybody has any ideas they would be much appreciated, I'd rather not go to the trouble of replacing the o2 sensors if it is actually the cat itself... My thanks in advance.
MrKid: VCDS-lite is the free version of VCDS that rosstech put out which works with the cheapo ebay cables from china. It was fine for me at the start when I just wanted to pull the codes so I could start the process of fixing this thing. For $100 you can buy a license which unlocks most of the features of the software, but still has limited capability compared to the full rosstech cable & VCDS package: Ross-Tech: VCDS: Function Table
MrKid: VCDS-lite is the free version of VCDS that rosstech put out which works with the cheapo ebay cables from china. It was fine for me at the start when I just wanted to pull the codes so I could start the process of fixing this thing. For $100 you can buy a license which unlocks most of the features of the software, but still has limited capability compared to the full rosstech cable & VCDS package: Ross-Tech: VCDS: Function Table
I know it exists, I've just never used it...lol. I do know that the "cheapo cables" have caused problems with false or non-existent readings in some cases, regardless of licensing. If you plan on keeping this car, I would get the full version. My wife has a Jetta TDI, and knowing I was looking to get an Allroad, I bought the top-of-line version, so I knew it would read both cars fully. Best money I ever spent. I also have HP Tuners for my Camaro, which costs ~$350 just for diagnostic tool. Ross Tech is a good deal.
Did you clear the fault codes after you did the vacuum lines?
I had similar faults coming up, and when the right side turbo coolant return line blew, in the process of accessing the repair I found the flexible section of right side vacuum line from the kombi valve (number 31 in your graphic P/N 078131492C) had a tear near the T piece. You could not see it until the line was removed. In your post you have been replacing the other hoses, just check this one has not been damaged. I just cut the flexible end off the swage connector and slipped some vacuum hose on with a clamp (replacement line is about US$75 from ECS whereas steeler in Australia wanted $203 and none in stock anyway). Reset the codes and they have not returned.
John: Yeah I cleared the fault codes after I replaced the pump and changed out the vacuum hoses. Everything was gravy for a few days but then the cat code (16815) came back. I can't tell for sure whether the driver's side, front 02 sensor is the problem so I'm gonna change that out next, and if that doesn't work... well I'll have to spring for a new cat I suppose.
03-14-2015, 12:17 PM
4mm hoses highlighted
