Did you pull your cam plugs from the rear? Did they start leaking again?
05-27-2016, 07:21 PM
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Did you pull your cam plugs from the rear? Did they start leaking again?
So I am pretty sure my cam plugs are leaking since I had all other seals replaced and there is oil right by them. I have read a bunch about this and several people said to just punch them with a screwdriver and pop them out and push new caps in. One guy kept saying they would leak again in a month and I wanna know if this is true or not or if he was being a negative nancy? I have a 2.7t allroad so I have to remove the EGR valves to get at them but I am still thinking it's easier then pulling the valve covers or am I wrong? And how would putting gasket maker around the plug cause it to pop out easier as I read as well?
05-28-2016, 05:27 AM
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I don't think it would be easier this way, but it would be cheaper. You won't have to replace all of the gaskets that were done previously.
I think they meant to put gasket sealer on the new plug before you install it. Tap it in part way, then run sealer around the plug with your finger. Then tap it the rest of the way in. I've never tried this, because even with the EGR removed, space is tight.
I think they meant to put gasket sealer on the new plug before you install it. Tap it in part way, then run sealer around the plug with your finger. Then tap it the rest of the way in. I've never tried this, because even with the EGR removed, space is tight.
05-28-2016, 06:19 AM
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i did this method of removing them (screwdriver punch) and plopped the new ones in
no leaks, and that was almost 6 months ago.
i did use oem parts however . . .
no leaks, and that was almost 6 months ago.
i did use oem parts however . . .
05-28-2016, 11:16 AM
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Thanks, I seriously just don't wanna pull the valve covers again. I will get oem plugs and hope for the best. Did I mention this car is a PITA? One thing after the next
05-28-2016, 12:05 PM
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its a love-hate-hate relationship with allroads; you love to drive them, but hate it when something breaks and you hate to either get it fixed or fix it yourself
05-28-2016, 10:03 PM
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Yea tell me about it, one thing after the next. Just replaced down pipes and o2 sensors myself and felt like if I could manage that I could handle cam seals possibly but not sure I wanna try. The timing belt was replaced before I got the car but only a few thousand miles ago and the guy did not do the seals since there is oil dripping up front drivers side. I paid for valve cover seals and timing chain seals only to find the cam seals are fubar'd several months later. I think my cam plugs need to be replaced as well so now I need to man up and try to do a timing belt for the first time or pay someone but I live in breck, CO and I am not sure of a great shop to do the job. I am having overheating probs and found that my electric passenger side fan was bad so replaced that but the radiator is in bad shape after an exploding fan so now I need to figure out if I replaced the radiator I should do the tranny fluid as well damit!!!! Think it doesn't overheat with the new fan now at least.
05-29-2016, 09:21 AM
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Alright, just one more question, I know I am blowing up this forum but I can't find clear answers. So I am looking at this tech article And it looks like you do not have to pull the valve cover to loosen up the 2 bolts that hold down the cam plug. Can I just pull those 2 bolts from above the cam plug and easily pull the plug out? Also are all 4 cam seals located on the front of the engine and that is why you do them during a timing belt job? Or is one seal behind the CPS on the rear driver side engine? Do you need to pull the cover on the driver rear side to get at that cam seal?
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05-29-2016, 10:08 AM
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if you need parts, give this guy a call https://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/5589766118.html
his name is mark and has about anything you might need
his name is mark and has about anything you might need
05-29-2016, 08:25 PM
#9
Ok maybe I am getting confused with what you are replacing.
From memory when I replaced the cam chain tensioner gasket and little half moon seals you pull the valve cover (therefore new gasket) and you need a little chain tensioner tool to depress the pressure of the tensioner enough that you can slide the gasket out from under it, and replace the little half moon seal under it.
The cam caps discussed are just a plastic cap that sits in the cover. If you have the valve cover off, easy to knock them out from the inside, if you dont want to remove the valve cover to save the gasket being replaced you have to somehow hook them out from the outside which is the discussion about using a screw driver to pierce the cap. The rear one on your drivers side (my passenger) is a pain (literally you will scratch the crap out of your hand) but it can be done.
The comment about the timing belt replacement, I had not done one either. Prepare a day, get a kit from your preferred supplier that has all the tensioners, belts etc and download the instructions. Prepare a spot with heaps of room to do this as you need to remove the front off the car. I thought removing the entire front clip off the car was going to be daunting but it's designed to be removed and it actually all works, just don't try and rush it. You can put it in a 'service position' which if you have done a belt change before I would consider, but wanting to see exactly what I was doing a removed the front clip entirely. You don't have to remove the transmission lines etc, you can maneuver them around and save the transmission service for another time. Consider replacing the water pump and the connection for the water hose to the radiator while your in there, especially if you have had cooling issues. I think I took about 60-90 minutes just to set up and remove the front clip, undertray etc. the job only takes another hour, then put everything back together. About 6 hours on my own with an instruction and a box of parts from ECS. Put a 6 pack in the fridge before you start, they will be ready when your done. It saved me paying a days labour which here is about $1K so the 6 pack goes down real nice.
From memory when I replaced the cam chain tensioner gasket and little half moon seals you pull the valve cover (therefore new gasket) and you need a little chain tensioner tool to depress the pressure of the tensioner enough that you can slide the gasket out from under it, and replace the little half moon seal under it.
The cam caps discussed are just a plastic cap that sits in the cover. If you have the valve cover off, easy to knock them out from the inside, if you dont want to remove the valve cover to save the gasket being replaced you have to somehow hook them out from the outside which is the discussion about using a screw driver to pierce the cap. The rear one on your drivers side (my passenger) is a pain (literally you will scratch the crap out of your hand) but it can be done.
The comment about the timing belt replacement, I had not done one either. Prepare a day, get a kit from your preferred supplier that has all the tensioners, belts etc and download the instructions. Prepare a spot with heaps of room to do this as you need to remove the front off the car. I thought removing the entire front clip off the car was going to be daunting but it's designed to be removed and it actually all works, just don't try and rush it. You can put it in a 'service position' which if you have done a belt change before I would consider, but wanting to see exactly what I was doing a removed the front clip entirely. You don't have to remove the transmission lines etc, you can maneuver them around and save the transmission service for another time. Consider replacing the water pump and the connection for the water hose to the radiator while your in there, especially if you have had cooling issues. I think I took about 60-90 minutes just to set up and remove the front clip, undertray etc. the job only takes another hour, then put everything back together. About 6 hours on my own with an instruction and a box of parts from ECS. Put a 6 pack in the fridge before you start, they will be ready when your done. It saved me paying a days labour which here is about $1K so the 6 pack goes down real nice.
05-30-2016, 11:16 AM
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Ok maybe I am getting confused with what you are replacing.
From memory when I replaced the cam chain tensioner gasket and little half moon seals you pull the valve cover (therefore new gasket) and you need a little chain tensioner tool to depress the pressure of the tensioner enough that you can slide the gasket out from under it, and replace the little half moon seal under it.
The cam caps discussed are just a plastic cap that sits in the cover. If you have the valve cover off, easy to knock them out from the inside, if you dont want to remove the valve cover to save the gasket being replaced you have to somehow hook them out from the outside which is the discussion about using a screw driver to pierce the cap. The rear one on your drivers side (my passenger) is a pain (literally you will scratch the crap out of your hand) but it can be done.
The comment about the timing belt replacement, I had not done one either. Prepare a day, get a kit from your preferred supplier that has all the tensioners, belts etc and download the instructions. Prepare a spot with heaps of room to do this as you need to remove the front off the car. I thought removing the entire front clip off the car was going to be daunting but it's designed to be removed and it actually all works, just don't try and rush it. You can put it in a 'service position' which if you have done a belt change before I would consider, but wanting to see exactly what I was doing a removed the front clip entirely. You don't have to remove the transmission lines etc, you can maneuver them around and save the transmission service for another time. Consider replacing the water pump and the connection for the water hose to the radiator while your in there, especially if you have had cooling issues. I think I took about 60-90 minutes just to set up and remove the front clip, undertray etc. the job only takes another hour, then put everything back together. About 6 hours on my own with an instruction and a box of parts from ECS. Put a 6 pack in the fridge before you start, they will be ready when your done. It saved me paying a days labour which here is about $1K so the 6 pack goes down real nice.
From memory when I replaced the cam chain tensioner gasket and little half moon seals you pull the valve cover (therefore new gasket) and you need a little chain tensioner tool to depress the pressure of the tensioner enough that you can slide the gasket out from under it, and replace the little half moon seal under it.
The cam caps discussed are just a plastic cap that sits in the cover. If you have the valve cover off, easy to knock them out from the inside, if you dont want to remove the valve cover to save the gasket being replaced you have to somehow hook them out from the outside which is the discussion about using a screw driver to pierce the cap. The rear one on your drivers side (my passenger) is a pain (literally you will scratch the crap out of your hand) but it can be done.
The comment about the timing belt replacement, I had not done one either. Prepare a day, get a kit from your preferred supplier that has all the tensioners, belts etc and download the instructions. Prepare a spot with heaps of room to do this as you need to remove the front off the car. I thought removing the entire front clip off the car was going to be daunting but it's designed to be removed and it actually all works, just don't try and rush it. You can put it in a 'service position' which if you have done a belt change before I would consider, but wanting to see exactly what I was doing a removed the front clip entirely. You don't have to remove the transmission lines etc, you can maneuver them around and save the transmission service for another time. Consider replacing the water pump and the connection for the water hose to the radiator while your in there, especially if you have had cooling issues. I think I took about 60-90 minutes just to set up and remove the front clip, undertray etc. the job only takes another hour, then put everything back together. About 6 hours on my own with an instruction and a box of parts from ECS. Put a 6 pack in the fridge before you start, they will be ready when your done. It saved me paying a days labour which here is about $1K so the 6 pack goes down real nice.
Last edited by bertrenolds; 05-30-2016 at 11:22 AM.
