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Just got a scan tool... EGT DTC

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Old 03-18-2016, 08:48 AM
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cdu
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Default Just got a scan tool... EGT DTC

2003 6mt allroad with 162k miles, only 1k of which are from me...

So this is a well-trod path... My scan tool (an xtools vag401) reports:

17861
Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235), Open or Short to
Plus
sporadic:

(is this the difficult to get to EGT?)

From
Exhaust gas temperature - S4wiki

It says:
Exhaust gas temperature sensor (1 or 2) Open/Short to B+:


DTC is produced when the exhaust gas temperature value (TATS_W or TATS2_W) is greater than TATSMX. The stock value of TATSMX is 1034.51C. This correlates to an pulse width duty cycle of greater than 99% based on empirical data.
DTC 17861 indicates this fault for bank 1 (G235) (B_MXATS) while 17865 indicates this fault for bank 2 (G236) (B_MXATS2).


Does this indicate the EGT is toast or that some other event occurred? It also reported

16805
Warm Up Catalyst, bank 1, efficiency below threshold
sporadic:


Should I just clear the codes and hope that it was the evil very short drive in very cold weather duty cycle the car had over the winter?

Related to the EGTs -- how many people have used the replacement EGT boards from that guy in poland?
Modó? EGT 2,7 bi - SidMotorSport.pl
installation is just opening up the EGT control boxes, cleaning them up, unsoldering the old board and soldering in the replacement board?

As an added bonus, this board seems to allow another device to access the EGT, which means that

FIS-Control Audi A6 / S6 / RS6 / Allroad (C5, till 1999 *please refer to note) Universal Electronics Gauges

which says that it supports reading from EGTs directly... plus SNAKE!


Thoughts on the EGT issue? Thanks!
Old 03-18-2016, 04:07 PM
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having similar problems,cat warm up fault i get sporadically,every 2 to 3 weeks and havent found an answer yet.though my exhaust was leaking at the flex joints,eventually blew out,i have had them repaired but the guy did a **** job,still blowing through poor welds and the idiot clamps and exhaust goo he threw all over it.hopefully this will clear it up.
the exhaust temp sensors i too have issues with,no codes,but stuck at 1030 degrees KOEO,engine running,cold they go to 945 degrees,think am going to get the new boards from sid.
you should be able to see exhaust gas temps working,when i first got my allroad i could see them going up and down on the scanner,but now they stuck.
good luck,these are tricky items to fix
Old 03-18-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cdu
2003 6mt allroad with 162k miles, only 1k of which are from me...

So this is a well-trod path... My scan tool (an xtools vag401) reports:

17861
Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235), Open or Short to
Plus
sporadic:

(is this the difficult to get to EGT?)

From
Exhaust gas temperature - S4wiki

It says:
Exhaust gas temperature sensor (1 or 2) Open/Short to B+:


DTC is produced when the exhaust gas temperature value (TATS_W or TATS2_W) is greater than TATSMX. The stock value of TATSMX is 1034.51C. This correlates to an pulse width duty cycle of greater than 99% based on empirical data.
DTC 17861 indicates this fault for bank 1 (G235) (B_MXATS) while 17865 indicates this fault for bank 2 (G236) (B_MXATS2).


Does this indicate the EGT is toast or that some other event occurred? It also reported

16805
Warm Up Catalyst, bank 1, efficiency below threshold
sporadic:


Should I just clear the codes and hope that it was the evil very short drive in very cold weather duty cycle the car had over the winter?

Related to the EGTs -- how many people have used the replacement EGT boards from that guy in poland?
Modó? EGT 2,7 bi - SidMotorSport.pl
installation is just opening up the EGT control boxes, cleaning them up, unsoldering the old board and soldering in the replacement board?

As an added bonus, this board seems to allow another device to access the EGT, which means that

FIS-Control Audi A6 / S6 / RS6 / Allroad (C5, till 1999 *please refer to note) Universal Electronics Gauges

which says that it supports reading from EGTs directly... plus SNAKE!


Thoughts on the EGT issue? Thanks!
Your lucky and this is the one that is easy to get to. Bank 1 which is passenger side for U.S. vehicles. Remove airbox and flexible intake tube. You will see the EGT probe screwed into the exhaust with good access. Drivers side is another story. Replacing the boards will work since the actual exhaust probe rarely fails.

For the CAT code run some fuel system cleaner through it. The best would be BG44k, but Sea Foam will do the trick also. Add to gas. I've gotten this code before and has worked for me, but this is assuming that you don't have a exhaust leak causing the code.

Once you get the EGT(s) fixed take it out, warm it up, and drive it like you stole it. This will clean out the carbon from the short trips.
Old 05-12-2016, 03:31 PM
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I had the infamous egt code come on a few months ago. I took the module cover off my sensors, dug out the gel, and soldered on the connections at both ends of the module box. I think there was four of them. Cleared the code and used VAG-COM to run rediness and codes never returned. Took less than an hour and never had to remove the sensors.


hope this helps, Connor.
Old 05-13-2016, 03:42 PM
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Default Solder = didn't work for me

I tried reviving the old EGTs based on tutorials found all over the forums. Either my soldering didn't take, or the boards were beyond repair, but it didn't fix my problem.

But I'm about solutions, not problems. So I ordered EGT deletes from this guy. Easy to install and fixed the problem. VAG was saying the EGT was 1050*C before the fix, and 945*C afterwards. Fuel mileage has improved.

I have the catalyst codes as well. I will try the SeaFoam trick and see what happens.
Old 05-13-2016, 05:56 PM
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Ya whenever I have a catalyst code on a vehicle, I take ot easy, because the car is going to have AFR's that are not ideal, especially for turbos. The cheap alternative is to get the cat delete downpipes because they come with the necessary pieces needed to trick the car into thinking it still has a catalytic converter. However, the guy who inspects your car is likely to fail it.
Old 05-14-2016, 10:44 PM
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My local mechanic ($110) and the audi dealership ($180) diagnosis for a engine hesitation on my 2001 audi allroad (144,000 miles) point to the EGT sensors needed to be replaced. Not sure which of the two, but the audi dealer quoted me $1,700 to replace and the local mechanic would be around $900.

I decided to try the inexpensive control board replacement document here:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/2-7...-good-2850845/
Old 05-14-2016, 10:48 PM
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I also got the Carista bluetooth ODB connector ($40) Carista OBD2 - Vehicle Diagnostics and Customization | Your car, your way
and then paid $20 for the ODB Connector iOS app. Seems to all work, but I was hoping to get readings for both of the EGT sensors, but the ODB Connector app doesn't display a EGT sensor reading. There is a "Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1-2 Sensor 1-2)", but all four of these settings return a 0 value.

Does anyone know if the EGT sensors can be read through the ODB connector?
Old 05-15-2016, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric Vermeire
I also got the Carista bluetooth ODB connector ($40) Carista OBD2 - Vehicle Diagnostics and Customization | Your car, your way
and then paid $20 for the ODB Connector iOS app. Seems to all work, but I was hoping to get readings for both of the EGT sensors, but the ODB Connector app doesn't display a EGT sensor reading. There is a "Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1-2 Sensor 1-2)", but all four of these settings return a 0 value.

Does anyone know if the EGT sensors can be read through the ODB connector?
You'll need a VAG-COM for that I believe.
Old 05-15-2016, 09:41 AM
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Ya I agree with the above poster. I use a snap on verus that I loaded with vag-com and various other manufacture diagnostic software, only because it is a must in my line of work. Using vag-com you can select pids to view and see what type of response you get from each EGT sensor. One guy posted a link to an awesome way to repair your EGT sensors, and I was able to do that repair without removing my sensors. My code has not returned since following that guide for the repair. However, the only thing I did differently is that once I made the repair, I did not fill my board with any sealant. I sealed the lids back on instead.
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