Running hot
06-26-2016, 07:06 PM
#21
First thing is to get the oil level right before starting the engine again. Dipstick should never be dry even if you shut down and checked it 2 seconds later. Always pull the dipstick , wipe with rag, reinsert, then pull to check level. Immediate reading should be close to true level. Oil gets back to pan really fast unless there is a blockage. True reading should be after engine has rested for a 5 minutes or so, but that is only a small difference, and not a dry stick.
For overheat you either have a sensor error, water pump issue, or cooling fan issue. Sensor issue is covered in the thread you posted in. Could be WP issue since you cannot confirm the TB service had been done and the WP is part of that. When in doubt do the the TB service or you could pay for it huge.
Fan issue you need to determine if the fans are running at the proper temp. The OEM mechanical fan is always moving air. Even at idle with a cool engine it is spinning and moving air. The mechanical clutch only engages to greatly increase the air it moves.
For overheat you either have a sensor error, water pump issue, or cooling fan issue. Sensor issue is covered in the thread you posted in. Could be WP issue since you cannot confirm the TB service had been done and the WP is part of that. When in doubt do the the TB service or you could pay for it huge.
Fan issue you need to determine if the fans are running at the proper temp. The OEM mechanical fan is always moving air. Even at idle with a cool engine it is spinning and moving air. The mechanical clutch only engages to greatly increase the air it moves.
06-27-2016, 07:00 AM
#22
I agree on the TB issue - I'll check the paperwork again but it probably wasn't done. I was thinking to pull and replace the suspect primary electric fan as it may not be moving enough air... wish I knew the cfm the clutch fan is supposed to move so I could match or exceed it with an electric fan.
06-27-2016, 07:09 AM
#23
BTW - the primary fan is on an adjustable t-stat - set to come on at 180F - should I lower that? other fans work as they should. Checked gauge and actual temp thru vag-com - initially got a reading showing a 30 degree difference - but subsequently everything seemed to match up - those sensors are new - but again - not oem.
08-10-2016, 11:08 AM
#25
ok - got the timing belt/water pump/thermostat done - same problem exists - I did find that I had a loose ground for the electrical fan system - also found that my aftermarket condenser fan was running slow when wired to oem circuit - I rewired to make it run on thermostat - so both main electric fan and condenser fan run together at same high power - It just seems to run hot when it feels like it and goes back down on its own. only thing I can think of is the aftermarket aux fan inefficient? I have the fans coming on at 203f - is that too late? I may mock up another fan and put it on the condenser fan circuit to see if it makes anything cooler.
08-10-2016, 11:11 AM
#26
oh -yeah - gotta check the cts with vagcom to be sure that even tho the sensor is new - it could be defective - I should be looking at the green one on top on passenger side or blue one down below?
08-10-2016, 12:55 PM
#28
AudiWorld Member
Download ssp198 (google out) There you have the infos on the heat management and fan controls.
I had such high temps only once when my aux (big) fan went wrong and I used the AC in 33-35Celsius and traffic jam.
If everything works properly (fans on/off, etc) you should check the cooler. Mine was full with debric and rust. I bought a new one and made wonder.
I had such high temps only once when my aux (big) fan went wrong and I used the AC in 33-35Celsius and traffic jam.
If everything works properly (fans on/off, etc) you should check the cooler. Mine was full with debric and rust. I bought a new one and made wonder.
08-13-2016, 12:28 AM
#30
well - to recap - had a 14" pusher and a 14" puller running independently - on thermostat set to turn on at various temps and it could not keep the coolant temps down in a variety of conditions - idling - anything with a/c on - just got too hot - also had an aftermarket aux fan puling on passenger side. Could not stay cool - temps would go down with the a/c off but even then it took too long for the temp to go down - so a got a Derale 18214 14" fan - used it as a pusher so I wouldn't have to do the whole svc position thing. can't get it to run hot by idling - a/c or no a/c. I have the Derale van wired to both the condenser fan controller (oem set up) and to the independent thermostat. Both fans will come on with call for medium speed and high speed. Pusher runs alone on low speed. Thermostat set to turn on both fans at high speed at 212f. So far the condenser fan controls all cooling that why I set thermostat so high - to see if the thermostat ever needs to jump in independently to help with cooling. I haven't driven yet so I'll keep you posted.