TIP Transmission Fluid Change High Mileage Survey
#1
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TIP Transmission Fluid Change High Mileage Survey
So I have a 2.7t auto with 136k miles. I would like to change the fluid and filter for the tranny. I have reviewed all the records and I do not believe it has been done. I would like to put another 100k miles on her so I think if I am going to do this it needs to be done asap.
Who has done this on here above 125k miles and had success?
I really don't have tranny issues now, maybe a hard shift into second in the morning if it is not fully warmed up.
Another option would be to just drop the pan, change the filter, and put back in whatever oil drains out. That way the oil is not fully changed but I put some fresh oil in, clean the magnets, and install a new filter.
Thanks!
Who has done this on here above 125k miles and had success?
I really don't have tranny issues now, maybe a hard shift into second in the morning if it is not fully warmed up.
Another option would be to just drop the pan, change the filter, and put back in whatever oil drains out. That way the oil is not fully changed but I put some fresh oil in, clean the magnets, and install a new filter.
Thanks!
#2
AudiWorld Member
Do a complete flush. Anything else is urban legend about stuck dirt that improve sealings, etc.
ZF prescribes it at every 60.000km (first change at 120.000 km). However, Audi forgot this to communicate anywhere, rather they tell officially the ridiculous "lifetime fillup". Yes, lifetime for approx 130k miles then ->throw it out into a junkyard and buy a new car. Curious distinction. Profit rules.
The oil contains lot of friction particles from the lockup coupling (material similar to aramid) and aluminium powder. None of the is fine for longer term and none of them improve anything. The oil itself also suffers serious altering, ageing. Everytime it gets very hot (100-110-...115 celsius) and it is not engine oil but a much more liquid, more thinner type of hydraulic oil. It is a must to change it, especially in case of a biturbo engine with serious heat buildup in the sommertime. It is not a coincidence that there are two big separate ATF coolers on the front (and practically no place for a normal engine oil cooler)
ZF prescribes it at every 60.000km (first change at 120.000 km). However, Audi forgot this to communicate anywhere, rather they tell officially the ridiculous "lifetime fillup". Yes, lifetime for approx 130k miles then ->throw it out into a junkyard and buy a new car. Curious distinction. Profit rules.
The oil contains lot of friction particles from the lockup coupling (material similar to aramid) and aluminium powder. None of the is fine for longer term and none of them improve anything. The oil itself also suffers serious altering, ageing. Everytime it gets very hot (100-110-...115 celsius) and it is not engine oil but a much more liquid, more thinner type of hydraulic oil. It is a must to change it, especially in case of a biturbo engine with serious heat buildup in the sommertime. It is not a coincidence that there are two big separate ATF coolers on the front (and practically no place for a normal engine oil cooler)
Last edited by PetrolBear; 10-03-2016 at 01:41 PM.
#3
AudiWorld Member
Sorry, additionally
I think it would be a miracle not to have any issue in the next 160k kilometers (100k miles) with your tiptronic. It is almost impossible unless the previous owners used only on highway as a grandpa. There is a normal wear of the system which is much bigger than of a family car. This can cause failures around (between) 200-270 eventually 300.000 km. At least at the TC sealing or the coupling inside lockup system within the torque converter will be worn out (which is normal even at a manual one).
I think it would be a miracle not to have any issue in the next 160k kilometers (100k miles) with your tiptronic. It is almost impossible unless the previous owners used only on highway as a grandpa. There is a normal wear of the system which is much bigger than of a family car. This can cause failures around (between) 200-270 eventually 300.000 km. At least at the TC sealing or the coupling inside lockup system within the torque converter will be worn out (which is normal even at a manual one).
#5
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complete flush is bad
ive read info/talked to more mechanics about this, and the 'urban legends' about stuck debris has some truth to it
the general rule of thumb is, if the tranny is failing anyway, a fluid change will either finish it off of stave off the failure. if it aint broke . . .
if you are going to do it, best thing to do if your gonna do it is to do a drain and fill.
drop the pan, clean the magnets, change the filter, and fill it back up
fwiw, im at 221k on the original tippy juice, once warmed up, shifts smooth, even at WOT
hit the link for some good info on this procedure Audi Automatic Transmission Fluid - How To Change Audi Transmission Fluid
ive read info/talked to more mechanics about this, and the 'urban legends' about stuck debris has some truth to it
the general rule of thumb is, if the tranny is failing anyway, a fluid change will either finish it off of stave off the failure. if it aint broke . . .
if you are going to do it, best thing to do if your gonna do it is to do a drain and fill.
drop the pan, clean the magnets, change the filter, and fill it back up
fwiw, im at 221k on the original tippy juice, once warmed up, shifts smooth, even at WOT
hit the link for some good info on this procedure Audi Automatic Transmission Fluid - How To Change Audi Transmission Fluid
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#8
AudiWorld Member
Hi Papertoast,
probably you are the one of the very few Allroaders with this 221k with the original tranny. I have never ever heard of similar Allroaders including the diesel ones which are more or less long distance runners. Might be a record so off statistics. You may be a patient relaxed driver, or just lucky ? TDI's have also problems prior reaching the 300.000kms, despite TDI's have a more lockup-friendly software which does not include the partial 40...60% lockup situation for the sake of smoother and even smoother ride (NHV philosophy). The TDI lockup locks within a second, also in case it causes a jerk and also when the oil is still not warm or on slope at low rpms - no rubbing of the coupling.) I learned more than 80 AR riders in the last 4 years and except one (and you) all of them had to overhaul the tipronic.
probably you are the one of the very few Allroaders with this 221k with the original tranny. I have never ever heard of similar Allroaders including the diesel ones which are more or less long distance runners. Might be a record so off statistics. You may be a patient relaxed driver, or just lucky ? TDI's have also problems prior reaching the 300.000kms, despite TDI's have a more lockup-friendly software which does not include the partial 40...60% lockup situation for the sake of smoother and even smoother ride (NHV philosophy). The TDI lockup locks within a second, also in case it causes a jerk and also when the oil is still not warm or on slope at low rpms - no rubbing of the coupling.) I learned more than 80 AR riders in the last 4 years and except one (and you) all of them had to overhaul the tipronic.
Last edited by PetrolBear; 10-03-2016 at 11:57 PM.
#9
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Mine is a C6 3.2 Quattro. I bought it with 151k miles on it.
I immediately planned to change the trans fluid & filter.
I changed both at 161k miles & just did a trans drain & refill at 165k.
So far, the trans is shifting better than when I got the car.
When I first bought the car, it had a soft & too early 1-2 shift. everything else was fine with the trans.
That soft shift cleared up after about 5000 miles. Apparently, this car hed been used very easily for mostly urban driving(granny style). So, the engine had a lot of carbon buit up & the trans had this soft & early 1-2 shift.
As I drove the car "assertively" & do a good number of 100mile highway trips, with particular & attentive maintenance, both of those issues cleared up.
I guess the moral of my reply is that I do not hesitate to do trans oil & filter changes on any vehicle. On a good trans, it'll keep it that way. On a sick trans, it'll clear it up or hasten it's demise. Either way, I've gotten out of limbo & can move forward.
I immediately planned to change the trans fluid & filter.
I changed both at 161k miles & just did a trans drain & refill at 165k.
So far, the trans is shifting better than when I got the car.
When I first bought the car, it had a soft & too early 1-2 shift. everything else was fine with the trans.
That soft shift cleared up after about 5000 miles. Apparently, this car hed been used very easily for mostly urban driving(granny style). So, the engine had a lot of carbon buit up & the trans had this soft & early 1-2 shift.
As I drove the car "assertively" & do a good number of 100mile highway trips, with particular & attentive maintenance, both of those issues cleared up.
I guess the moral of my reply is that I do not hesitate to do trans oil & filter changes on any vehicle. On a good trans, it'll keep it that way. On a sick trans, it'll clear it up or hasten it's demise. Either way, I've gotten out of limbo & can move forward.
#10
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Thanks Larry JA, I am hoping for a few more of those stories. Did you do it yourself with a VAG? It looks like I need to get the cable, the Lite software, two more jack stands, and a fluid pump.