If you can easily hit that hex bolt, shucks, I'd just tighten it up a......
carefully calibrated "smidge". I wouldn't tighten it to the german "Gutentight" spec, but personally, if I saw that type of leak, I wouldn't be able to just try to see if I couldn't tighten it at least to spec (again, a carefully hand-calibrated ~25 ft lbs or so).
Bob, totally obsessed motorhead
2001 6MT allroad, K04's with EPL sauce, Cayenne 6pots.
One truck - rear steer, 52's.
Other truck - 47's, 636ci turbodiesel
I am the original owner, and initially noticed the leak at around 15k miles... It was only a drop here and there, never enough to add oil between changes.
It took approximately 7+ trips to the dealer and a letter to the dealership's CEO to get this resolved.
During the initial visits they tried tightening the hex bolt, they also tried replacing the seals several times. First with one type, then with a "newer style" seal. Leak remained.
Once the dealership's CEO got involved and engaged the necessary resources, they found the leak was was caused by a manufacturing/machining defect of the upper oil pan (where the return line enters the upper oil pan.
It's been at well over a year since the upper oil pain was replaced, and I have yet to see a drop of oil again.
Hopefully it's as simple as tightening the bolt or replacing a seal. If not, I am sure the upper oil pan is probably big bucks, not to mention the labor involved.
I am not sure how much truth there is with about...
I've heard that (synthetic causing leaks) alot over the years, but have never personally had any problems running Mobil 1 in any of my vehicles cars (both German and Japanese)... I am sure there are those who have though, but not sure if their leaks are direct attributed to simply using synthetic oil.
As for the turbo return line, I do not know for sure, but suspect it is an o-ring. I wonder if you can use a gasket type material in addition to the o-ring (if there is one), or possibly use one of those "form-a-gasket" type products between the retention plate and upper oil pan.
There is not much room in there. If I recall correctly it was the sway bar that was in the way. You might need to drop it to do anything.
And then again, if the leak is so slight you can always let it be... I decided to pursure it because the car was brand new and under warranty. I did not feel a $50K car should have any leaks.
I recently had a similar leak on my 2004 2.7T (26k miles). Took it to the dealer and they replaced the O-ring. One week later it dripped again. (oil never hit the ground, small leak)
I recently moved and took it to another dealer. They thought it was the O-ring again and replaced it. However, before returning the car they decided to let it idle for a little while to double check. Guess what, it leaked again. They decided to replace the oil return line. I had them recheck it 3 weeks later and the leak has not come back.
I think it is worth the try to replace the return line before starting on the upper oil pan...
"I'm not sure if there is a write up for the turbo oil return seals. I got mine on line from autohausaz. There are two steel hoses that go into the oil pan coming from the turboes. Mine were visibly leaking at the oil pan. At first I thought it was the oil pan's gasket which would've been a lot more work.
Anyway these seals are fairly easy to replace.
I put the car in level 4(jack mode) and put two jack stands under the recommended spots (just in case).
First I drained the oil.(By the way I suggest doing this job the next time you have to change the oil).
I loosened the end links that connect to the front sway bar and removed two brackets that hold it toward the middle of the car. Most people remove the sway bar altogether, I only swung it away(hence loosening the end links instead of removing them). That gives you enough clearance to remove the one little bolt for each oil return line. It could be a 8mm or smaller, I don't remember.
After that you have to pry out the return line. I remember it required a bit force and 'technique'. The oil line goes into the oil pan about one inch. Take your time.
The seals are about half way to the ends. You'll see them. Mine were flat(they are suppose to be round). Cut them or pull them off however you think safely without damaging the oil lines.
To install the new ones use some oil or grease and carefully slide them on.
Put everything back together and replace/change the oil.
If you think of a way to remove 2-3 quarts of oil from the pan without emptying the whole thing, there is that option too...
One more thing: if you decide to lift the car make sure you tighten the sway bar while the car is weighted(on ramps or wheels, not lift or jacks).
Let me know if you have any more questions.
I hope this helps"
It helps a ton indoor...thanks for taking the time!