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Having finally completed replacement of valve cover and cam gaskets (with the timing belt removed), the engine is now reassembled, but lock carrier still detached. Time to investigate three other issues:
Likely auxiliary water pump leak.
Broken headlamp retainers.
Annoying leak in windshield washer reservoir.
Last night before quitting, I discovered (photos below) the suspicious white powder deposits on tubing and fittings I can't identify next to the firewall. To my amazement, I then noticed a broken fitting adjacent to the deposits. Bright orange innards waving around in the air, seeking attention. This doesn't strike me as a coolant line, but frankly I'm otherwise clueless as to the source of the deposits. Whatever it is, it needs to be replaced!
My coolant leak displays all the symptoms of an auxiliary water pump malfunction, since the leaks appear only after the engine has been shut down. Coolant tank was replaced not long ago, and that cut losses, but all fingers now point toward the auxiliary pump or parts of that particular system.
Some of this may sound as if I know what I'm doing. Don't be fooled. I'm a rank beginner!
your line with the orange innards looks like the brake booster vac line
where the white deposits are, thats part of the sai system.
why the deposits, i dont have any ideas, maybe someone else does
your line with the orange innards looks like the brake booster vac line
where the white deposits are, thats part of the sai system.
why the deposits, i dont have any ideas, maybe someone else does
Hey bud not sure if you have noticed, but just a few threads down from yours is this one "Diagnosing and repairing secondary air injection system (codes 17831, 17819, 16815)"
SAI=Secondary Air Injection
I actually have no clue either but it can be of good starts as well. But the Thread Starters is very detailed there.
I am preparing to do my aux coolant pump as well. I'd appreciate a few pictures as you proceed, particularly of the pump in place prior to removal.
Thanks, good luck!
Sorry, the pump's already out. I'll send photos of the current state when I get back home, and they should be of some value.
The job isn't nearly as bad as it looks, but it is timely. After reading all the threads I could find on this job, I used the following as my basic guide. It's very simple, it avoids disconnecting gas lines, and it actually removes the manifold, which I thought was a better choice than simply lifting the front of it to sneak out the pump. In retrospect, this is more important than I thought, because under the manifold turns out to be a real garbage dump. It was filthy, and I wouldn't care to have all that crap falling into the engine, as it undoubtedly would just tipping the manifold back. Even lifting straight up and being careful, I had to fish out three separate plastic ties downs that had fallen into three separate cylinders. Glad I saw them!
Anyhow, here are the instructions I followed:
"Taking the intake off is not that hard. Yes, it looks complicated, but not really. You would need new intake manifold gaskets. I replaced mine with a Felpro gasket set instead of the OEM stuff. Cheaper and I trust Felpro. In general, you would need a standard array of tools. The throttle body has a few allen bolts and the intake is also held with allen bolts. One thing to keep in mind is that your breather and vacuum hoses will be very brittle if you haven't touched them for awhile. Here is a brief guide.
- Loosen coolant tank and set it off to the side.
- Intake charging pipes come off.
- Plate over the throttle body that holds bunch of vacuum equipment comes off.
- Throttle body comes off.
- Disconnect the injector wiring. There is no need to disconnect the fuel rail/hoses. You can swing the intake with the fuel rail assembly to the side once lifted.
- There are 2 cone shaped plastic guides that help you align the manifold. When you lift the manifold, they will either break and/or fall into the engine block. You don't need them to reassemble, but make sure to get it out of the engine block.
While there, check the various coolant hoses at the rear. If you see any signs of wear, then replace them." How hard to Replace Aux Water Pump? - AudiForums.com
I agree with several commenters that, even if it is possible to do the job without removing the manifold, that procedure sounds at least as fiddly as what I did. And it doesn't allow me to add the NewSouth Power Gasket to the job, which I'm doing.
For your information, here is the 'manifold-free' procedure, if you happen to want to try it:
"It's very possible, without removing the intake manifold. You just have to be prepared with ALL the right tools and replacement parts:
TOOLS:
~Long flat screwdriver
~Long needle nose pliers with 90deg bent tips(KEY)
~Allen hex bits(for removing SAI unit, from Tiptronic A6/allroads)
METHOD:
~Remove SAI with 5mm Allen bit and 10mm bolt behind unit(Auto only)
~Move coolant tank over towards driver side shock tower
~Remove all spider hoses going into Combi valves(Auto only)
~Remove intake "Y" pipe and accordian hose
~Remove driver side Diverter Valve
~Unplug blue two-prong connector from pump(Behind/under center intake)
~Using bent needle nose pliers - pinch the front hose spring clamp, slide back) and use pliers to wriggle hose from bleed screw pipe
~Use bent pliers to loosen rear hose(inlet), just under steel turbo feed line
~Use long screwdriver to push pump assembly back 1/4" to release from round rubber mounting grommets
~GENTLY slide pump assembly(with two hoses intact) out the rear of engine
~With new pump and hoses attached - install in reverse of removal
ETA: Allocate 1-3hours
BENEFITS:
1) No Throttle body adaptation necessary, if intake manifold is NOT removed
2) No threat of dropping loose objects inside intake
3) No potential for pinched wire/vacuum connections
4) No loss of fuel pressure, since fuel rail is untouched
5) No gaskets to buy/install
6) Less removal of parts" Looking for Relocation kit for Aux. water pump/DIY without removing manifold? - AudiForums.com
Here's a general shot showing the current state of things, although the pump has now been removed. The manifold, with fuel rail still attached, is sitting on its side on the right valve cover, gently resting against the battery of fuel lines coming in from the right. I'll attach another photo when I get home to make that more obvious.
Below shows a piece of tubing which intimidated me at the very end. I don't know what it is, but it looked fragile. In fact, the fabric covering was clearly disintegrating. Yet it reminded me of gas lines from a bygone era. It was connected with tiny Oetiker clamps. I have clamping pliers, but I don't have a bunch of new clamps sitting around. It's not always easy to remove these intact, and it's tiny, located in a cramped spot when the fuel rail is attached. I finally pried the clamp open without screwing it up, and got the tubing off. Disintegrating fabric everywhere. Happily turned out not to contain gasoline, and I was able to move the manifold to its current position. Between 3-4 hours at that point.
Hope that helps. I think you'll find the job pretty straightforward—just fiddly.
Last edited by Stubborn, but Happy; 06-01-2015 at 05:54 PM.
Oh, yes, forgot to mention there was little indication that this is the source of my leak... duh. There is some coolant dried on one of the screws holding the pump together, but I'm not convinced this is the culprit...
Still happy to have done this job, and I'm anticipating liking the new gaskets.
Thanks for the detailed account. I fully expect this to be as annoying to change as the fuel injectors. Time consuming but possible.
I also fully expect that this might only be part of the problem, but it's my hope that I'll be able to see what crossover pipe in back is leaking while I have it all apart.
Manifold is sitting on its side with fuel rail and friends still attached. Shop towel stuffed in throttle body cavity. This is 'working position'. The whole thing lies down while we wait for pump and gaskets to arrive. There are two staggered rows of 5mm allen bolts running up each side of the manifold. Most of these were effortless. 3 or 4 were not. I believe there were 16 in all.
Here is a detail looking 'up' at the bottom of the northeast corner of the fuel rail. Circled area shows connection where the mystery fabric-covered tubing put up the last resistance to removal.
Expect the best. It's not that hard, although I admit to being skinny, with small hands, and being able to reach underneath the manifold tubes is an advantage in making up for lack of tool dexterity.
Last edited by Stubborn, but Happy; 06-04-2015 at 11:45 AM.
05-31-2015, 10:37 AM
What is this part? What is this white deposit?
