nellyccc

I have a 2001 2.5 TDi Automatic Allroad with an unusual suspension problem. Instead of the usual problem where the bags leak, I had the opposite problem whereby all four bags were stuck on full!.

When starting the car the top green light would flash which would indicate that the sensors were still doing their job in telling the car to release pressure in the system, but nothing happened. I even tried driving at 70 MPH on the motorway to see if the speed sensor worked, it did i.e. the top two lights flashed but it was still stuck on the top setting.

I suspected that the compressor was at fault, so I had a replacement one shipped from Arnott Industries. After fitting it there was no change to the problem (no power to the compressor and still stuck at full height)

I decided to disconnect the air hoses manually at the valve block. Firstly I disconnected the yellow connection to the pressure reservoir which emptied the tank but had no effect on the suspension so with the aid of a colleague disconnected the air line to each of the four air springs to level them out manually.

I am now in the position whereby when I switch the ignition on, the warning light on the dash is on constantly (I seem to remember that it used to flash for a while and then become solid) the lowest green light in the centre console is flashing as the system is calling for air. There is no power to the new compressor and after using a friend’s VAG.com it has a fault stating that there is a short on the solenoid which I thought was on the new compressor.

After obtaining a wiring diagram for the suspension I understand that there is a main 40AMP fuse and relay supplying the compressor. Having looked through the forum I understand that it could be on the relay panel (driver’s side, behind the micro central electric panel). I have looked at my relay panel but it doesn’t look like the one on the diagram that I found.

Does anybody out there know where the main fuse and relay located?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

todd g

40 amp fuse and relay are covered by under steering wheel cover plate

it has Six 8mm hex head screws securing it, 2 on top, 2 on bottom, and 2, (upper and lower) behind the normally accessed left side fuse block cover plate.

other forum posters have said the relay is # 8D0-951-253-A , but you'll want to double check that.

indoor

I think your problem is the wires that connect to the solenoid valve broke off partially(N111).
So they short out...
Anyway, get under the car, remove the compressor metal guard, and unplug the connector to the solenoid valve, turn the wires around and take a closer look where they may contact the compressor guard(even though it's removed at this point you kind of know where it goes). What happens is the compressor gets a little shaky because of the mounts breaking apart with age and the wires rub on the compressor metal guard(causing them to cut partially or entirely ).
EDIT: ups, didn't realise I was responding to a dead thread

todd g

thread is alive, i think... :-)

when i turn the car on the yellow warning light on the dash flashes for a while and ultimately turns solid.

i'm told by Andy, that "if your error light flashes the n111 valve is not the issue, it will put the error light on solid."

indoor

The valve is not an issue, it's the wires that go to it. Worth checking them out. When I first checked them I just did a pull test. It passed. Then I unplugged the darn connector(I hate those connectors, and that's why I didn't unplugged it the first time). The second time I checked things down there I unplugged it and turned the wires around. Sure enough the green wire was cut. I replaced it with a wire repair kit from dealer($25!!! I think) and that's all she wrote.

todd g

it's a good tip. i will check those out for sure and report back.

can i ask whether your yellow warning light was blinking, then solid, or just solid when you first turned the car on?

bagpipingandy

Yep those 2 green wires very common to break, they store the N111 valve open/short to ground error but more importantly that puts the error light on solid, and ussually causes teh car to be stuick at level 4 if you have been pressing buttons as it can lift but will not lower as the N111 valve will not function.

a flashing error light tells us the car knows it is not level so the system is actually working to an extenct and is trying to correct its level, it will flash for 2 mins and then go solid if it canot fix its level,

so while it is flashing the compressor should be running, if you cannot hear the compressor either the fuse, relay, wiring or compressor is bust, if the compressor is running, then air leak, level sensor or other issue

let us know if the compressor does not run then check it is plugged in ok, test the comrpessor with 12v direct from a battery, check/replace 40 amp fuse and relay

best regards

Andy

indoor

I don't remember...it's been years since I had the problem. But I can tell you that new wires fixed the issue
The green wire(s) broke off right next to the plug, so I bought a new plug as well(from dealer), but I remember the wire being more expensive than the plug because it had a lock pin soldered to it and it locks into the plug as you push it in(hard to get out without a special tool). Good luck!

Edit: I do remember my problem was intermittent for months before that and I attribute that to the wires being partially cut. I had all sorts of suspension lights(flashing, constant yellow), buttons would work, then stop working...until the wire broke off completely and the car just got stuck in level 3 at any speed(drove at 60mph in 3rd, and the car wouldn't lower). So there you go, for the guys who asked how to drive in level 3 or 4 at any speed, put a switch on the green wire going to the solenoid

todd g

is the plug (and wiring), plugging into the N111 valve or from the N111 valve plugging into the compressor? or is the wiring routing different?

indoor

I think it plugs into N111. Again, it's been a while since I worked on it...I'm waiting for the compressor piston ring(rebuild kit) to come in the mail(UK), and I'll take pictures when I work on it(showing the plug). But as far as I remember, the wire rubs off on the compressor shield so it's the first plug/wire you see when you remove the shield.