j2dapo

When driving last night I noticed the passenger side front seat heater switch was really hot to the tough. This morning I went to start the car but it wouldn't turn over. It sounds like the battery is drained.

The passenger side switch is still hot to the touch. I think it may have a short in it and is draining my battery.

Going to see if I can boost it or take a taxi to work today.....

UrS4boy

Don't know what the issue is but if you ignore it, there is a chance that the car will catch on fire and burn to the ground while you are away from it. Strongly suggest that you start by disconnecting the two power connectors under the front seat that is having the problem.

Probably a faulty thermostat that is not shutting the power off when the seat comes to temperature.

j2dapo

Yes I was worried all day about a fire.

I looked at it this evening and the switch was not hot any more however the battery is fully discharged. I gave it a boost with the wife's Subaru. It fired right up. I ran it for a while and noticed the switch was getting hot again. The seat is not getting hot the switch is.

Its on a charger now.

Getting back to the heated seat switch, and thank you very much for the diagram, will unplugging the seat take the current off the switch? I think I should be disconnecting the switch?

Also, the switch no longer rotates its stuck at zero.

Going to try to dismantle the console and unplug that switch or perhaps just pull fuse #14?

UrS4boy

Pull the A5 thermofuse in the lunch box relay panel under the hood before your car start on fire. Switches can be pulled out if you first remove some of the switch blanks to give you room to come it from the side.





The green one, left, at the back:

j2dapo

Yes I see now. Fuse 79, I should have caught that from your first wiring diagram. Fuse 14 is for the lighting. I pulled 14 but the switch still was heating up.

As suggested, I pulled the blank switch plate off and was able to see the connector on that switch. I used a small flat head screw driver and pushed it back enough to disconnect it. The disconnected switch is not getting hot and I'm confident that is was a source of this battery discharge. It must have a short in it.

Now I must find another switch, I can't do without my seat heaters in the great white north.

Fires averted, touch wood.

UrS4boy

In your defence, that wiring diagram didn't show S79 very clearly. I just posted it so you'd see that if you unhooked the connectors under the seat, the current should stop flowing. When you still had the problem I decided I better post the Auxiliary Relay Panel 1 info. Glad it is no longer a critical issue.

Note: It might be the temp switch under the seat that is the issue if it isn't the dash switch.

j2dapo

Last night was my second attempt at getting the heated switch out of the car and testing the replacement I procured. For me this this is a difficult job, and the how-to pdf files are no longer available.

Anyhow, I found this site, (http://home.arcor.de/wolf151148/audi_a60.htm). I used google translator on it.

I pulled the rear console loose and got all of the screws out of the front console, but there seems to be something behind the vents that is holding the main console in place. Do these vents just pop out?

Do I need to remove the radio to get the console out? (Its now in safe mode and I have no code. This is another thread...) I tried a coat hanger tool but it doesn't budge.

I will take a picture and post it up today.

scarman

STOP all this stuff now. The seat heat control switch has a leaf spring top and bottom of the switch box that holds it in by friction. The small faceplate on the switch itself is slightly larger than the hole to make a neat appearance. You can pry lightly on that to ease the switch out. You were able to get to the back side to push the plug off. You should be able to hook the back side of the switch and pull it out, perhaps even with your finger. Make sure you removed power from the switch if you are hooking the back side with a metal tool.

j2dapo

Thank you for directing my repair. I have removed the old switch as suggested; I used a J hook to get in behind the switch and pull it out.

Now the pictures

Old vs good unit.


Yes I got the vacuum out after this.


Testing good unit.


bad switch, you can see how the potentiometer is not aligned properly in the switch case. This switch got cooked.


Although the replacement switch is good. The light in it isn't

GoHeels

I just removed my 30A heated seats fuse, in my Aux Relay Panel, since I only need it ~10 days a year in Carolina.

I assume this would prevent me from having a HOT switch issue. Mine was in the back right corner, in slot B3.