vtraudt

I am running several W/M setups.
Pump on/off, starts when mechanical boost switch closes relay.
Start boost is set with mechanical wheel (spring adjustment).

My turbos spool up VERY quickly: Boost increase of 6 psi in only 0.35 seconds; for example from 14 psi (4.1) to 20 psi (4.45) . Which makes it very difficult to dial in the optimum 'start boost'.

I am seeing low rpm timing pull on some cylinders, which appear to be caused by 'too much too early' water/meth flow. But I cannot find anything describing symptoms of 'too much flow'.

Before forking over $200 for an electronic controller (duty cycles the pump) for example from Devils Own, I would like to know if I am on the right track.

transman

You might be messing with the wrong nozzle size.

It would be nice to have some screen shots of live data to help you out, though.

I have some guys I hang around with that mess with and have some horrible stories. I have always steered away from it, and took the e85 route instead. Similar power gains with way less risk. Mostly due to the intake manifold flooding after the throttle is closed. Water/meth injection can give nice gains on dynos and drag strips, but not transferred well to the street.

Plus, once you invest in an electronic controller, plus the inital cost of the kit, you could have used that money for much safer power gains.

If you are using it for knock resistance with high boost, I see its function. But, if you are using it as an octane booster as an added fuel source, you're crazy. Just my opinion though.

1stGOAT

Although this thread is long dead, thought I would drop some fresh info on it as there is a fair amount of opinion that is really not accurate.

1. Meth is very effective for both cooling and as an octane/fueling additive.
2. Most of the systems sold are boost or Maf based in terms of a trigger. Not speaking of Aquamist.
3. Tuning a Snow, DO or similar system requires logging and adjusting to reach zero timing retard. You can't just install and run it. You have to tune it.
4. The goal is to run just enough to get to zero timing retard (max power) without going over. Too much and you will have zero retard but you will also have less power.

If anybody is installing a system and has questions, just pm me. I have tuned a fair amount of experience setting them up and tuning them.
I live in a very hot climate and have used it very effectively to maintain power even on days when temps are 100+ degrees.

vtraudt

Just installed another system on my own TT. This time (based on various recommendations from others) ordered/installed a MAF (flow) based fancy controller (AEM).
The crappy check valve from Snow let the intake get flooded (gravity!), hydrolocked the engine.
Had to buy another fancy electronic solenoid.
The wiring instructions leave a lot to be desired. AEM troubleshooting instructions are pretty much non existent. And not sure if the tapping into the MAF signal is not even causing errors on the ECU side (need to observe/test further, but currently just leave it unplugged; when plugging in, a red light is blinking).

I installed the system to fight high IAT that I expected, but so far that has not been the case. Obviously, I would like the system to work, because lower IAT are ALWAYS beneficial.

Probably should have stayed with the tried and try super simply mechanical boost switch, run a few logs with various 'kick in' set points and be done with.

1stGOAT

I have used MAF based controller (Snow) on my 2.0 TFSI motor, worked fine. I have used boost based and they work fine too. I have not wired up an AEM controller but according to their diagram pretty much the same.

Based on your signature you have a 1.8T motor. Dip switches on the controller should all be set to "on" as you have a 0-5v MAF.
Did you confirm the MAF wire with a manual or a voltmeter, I ask because voltmeter is more reliable.
Wiring diagram seems pretty straight forward.
Got it installed and just not working?

vtraudt

Installed.
Light blinks. Does not seem to work, difficult to verify during test drives (don't have a plug to take nozzles out to observe spray during driving).
Not found helpful instructions what might be causing the blinking.
"test button" used, pump kicks in, water spraying from nozzles.

I guess I could FAKE a MAF Signal by putting a 3.3 Volt battery onto the maf signal line, remove nozzles and see it and when (position of 'start' ****) spraying starts.

1stGOAT

Ok good, Test button indicates a lot is right. Now to figure out what is wrong with the wiring to the MAF which is the trigger.

Confirm the dip switches are all set to on and that you have a 1.8t motor

I had a similar problem. Just get some extra wiring (so you can bring your voltmeter inside the car) and alligator clips and connect to the tap you made on the MAF line along with a ground and go for a ride with the voltmeter see if you have the right wire tapped.

vtraudt

Can just measure MAF voltage (idle, revving) at the WMI wire, no need to drive. Or?

1stGOAT

You are right no need to drive this is a MAF not MAP, my bad. Just rev motor and watch voltmeter