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Custom Vented "S-Line" Sub Box

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Old 08-08-2014, 12:56 PM   #1
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Default Custom Vented "S-Line" Sub Box (new pix added)

The amp won't arrive till Monday so I won't have installed pix till later, but I wanted post a couple pix of what I will be installing in the back of my 2011 Q5 next week.


Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch Sub
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier


Sub is wired down to 2-Ohm so the AP will push 500 watts RMS which will mean I'm removing the donut sub and this should fill out the B&O System nicely.



I will post pix of the install. I'm still trying to decide how I want to do the amplifier. I had thought I'd hiding it in the left compartment but I'm worried about heat so I might just install it on the back of the sub-box.

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Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch


Click the image to open in full size.

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch


Click the image to open in full size.

Audi S-Line Badge (This is the grill mount emblem I bolted through the box)
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Black 2011 Audi Q5 3.2 FSI S-Line

Last edited by Stephen Charles Rea; 08-17-2014 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:35 PM   #2
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Looks great! I'm looking forward to the install photos.
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:41 PM   #3
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As will I!
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:40 AM   #4
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rockford, solid subs.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:16 AM   #5
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I did the dirty install last night so I could break in the sub and tune the system...once that's done (might take a few days I'll take it all out and do the proper install and hide the wires so it may be a few more days than expected to post more photos...work has been super crazy this week.

That said It's gonna need to be tuned down. the certified RMS on my AMP is 642 and even at 40% power and GAIN I'm hitting well over just north of 140 on the SPL meter. It's a massive amount of power for this Q5. even with the mid and high end range of the B&O system.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:21 PM   #6
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Default speaker leads

Did you simply tap into the doughnut sub leads for the signal, or somewhere else?
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USAVAGEU View Post
Did you simply tap into the doughnut sub leads for the signal, or somewhere else?

Yes I tapped the donut sub and have taken it out for now....(will put it back in when I sell the car or trade it later on. I am using a PAC Line out converter


LOC PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter (LP3-2) and I just wired it mono-stereo
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:55 PM   #8
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I've heard others say that it's best to take the leads from full range speakers, but with todays canbus type of processed signals, I dont think thete is a " full range" signal going to any of the speakers.
I like your approach....neat, clean, easy and you know you're getting a nice low signal. Is the sound low enough? Did you use the low pass adjustment on the amp, or are you still tuning?
BTW, I'm planning a similar install, but with a downfiring enclosure.

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Originally Posted by Stephen Charles Rea View Post
Yes I tapped the donut sub and have taken it out for now....(will put it back in when I sell the car or trade it later on. I am using a PAC Line out converter


LOC PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter (LP3-2) and I just wired it mono-stereo
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USAVAGEU View Post
I've heard others say that it's best to take the leads from full range speakers, but with todays canbus type of processed signals, I dont think thete is a " full range" signal going to any of the speakers.
I like your approach....neat, clean, easy and you know you're getting a nice low signal. Is the sound low enough? Did you use the low pass adjustment on the amp, or are you still tuning?
BTW, I'm planning a similar install, but with a downfiring enclosure.

I'm still tuning but I chose the Subwoofer out even though I'm using the crossover in the amp anyway because that subwoofer channel had the low end for sure and the PAC Line converter is rater to handle incoming 55 watts per channel so I wasn't worried about it over powering the input. THat said I also used the PAC to step the signal down a little more even, and I am still tuning. the idea is to mount the remote punch **** in the console somewhere and have it tuned to sound perfect with it at the lowest setting then when I wanna have a little fun I can twist the dial and have it hit HARD.


It's stupid loud though seriously.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:56 PM   #10
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Do you think you could fit the amp in the storage space in front of ( or in back of depending on your point of view) the spare? There's quite a bit of space there so you might prevent heat buildup. I'm looking at a different slightly more compact Rockford Fosgate amp and am pretty sure itll fit in there but I haven't mocked it up yet.
Gotta tell you I haven't had much luck finding somebody in the same mindset as I for this setup, so, youre kind of being my for lack of a better term....Guinea Pig! But I really appreciate it!
Last time I installed car stereo equipment was thirty years ago and as you may know...THINGS HAVE CHANGED!

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Originally Posted by Stephen Charles Rea View Post
I'm still tuning but I chose the Subwoofer out even though I'm using the crossover in the amp anyway because that subwoofer channel had the low end for sure and the PAC Line converter is rater to handle incoming 55 watts per channel so I wasn't worried about it over powering the input. THat said I also used the PAC to step the signal down a little more even, and I am still tuning. the idea is to mount the remote punch **** in the console somewhere and have it tuned to sound perfect with it at the lowest setting then when I wanna have a little fun I can twist the dial and have it hit HARD.


It's stupid loud though seriously.

Last edited by USAVAGEU; 08-15-2014 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USAVAGEU View Post
Do you think you could fit the amp in the storage space in front of ( or in back of depending on your point of view) the spare? There's quite a bit of space there so you might prevent heat buildup. I'm looking at a different slightly more compact Rockford Fosgate amp and am pretty sure itll fit in there but I haven't mocked it up yet.
Gotta tell you I haven't had much luck finding somebody in the same mindset as I for this setup, so, youre kind of being my for lack of a better term....Guinea Pig! But I really appreciate it!
Last time I installed car stereo equipment was thirty years ago and as you may know...THINGS HAVE CHANGED!

This Amp is actually pretty small so there is plenty of room left or right of the donut spare I'd bet to mount it...tho I'm still working the exact placement out, because yes heat build up is a concern as always. I've got podcast filming to do today and a house warming part later, but I should have time to wrap up everything tomorrow (hoping) so I can finalize the placement for all the wiring and amp (etc) and I know what you mean about having been a while, I used to be pretty hard core into car audio. Back in the 90's I had a 1995 Chewy S10 single cab truck with 4 10" Eclipse Subs and about 1000 watts behind the seat. And a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage (Lancer) with a Memphis 15" Sub with about 2200 watts in the boot.


But I will say the system tuned pretty well. It's still a little loser than I wanted (tho expected since I went with a vented port and not a sealed box)...
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:24 PM   #12
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Installed and tuned now...sorry for crappy iPhone photos, but the rain was coming and I didn't have time to get better images today. Also forgive the dirty liner (I didn't have time to clean it up before the rain came either. But now if I need to remove this sub I can either pull the left panel and pull the fuse or wirenut the speaker wire ends and simply pull the box.

Will try to take some more pix later.

So what I ended up doing was removing the air compressor and simply putting it in the "bucket" that's in front of the spare tire then removing it's bracket and mounting a new strap I could free stand the Subwoofer AMP on it's side then strap it down. I think with all the free space around it that heat should be fine.

I've tuned the box and amp to sound pretty much perfectly at one click above MIN on the remote punch (mounted on the left side of my steering column on the dash, this way I can listen to the system as I would 90% of the time with just the right amount of bass to support he B&O system. But when I wanna get crazy and crank the **** out of this thing I can simply turn the **** and hit hard (about 148 SPL) without really trying...I could (provided I turned the GAIN and INPUT on the AMP go as high as 153 SPL but really I'm not doing car comps with this thing so it's plenty loud.




Click the image to open in full size.

Remote Punch Volume **** (Double-sided Stick Tape - no way I'm screwing into that dash)

On another note I may cover that blue power light up with electrical tape (it's super bright)



Click the image to open in full size.

Amp in the Driver side boot compartment where the air compressor usually is. (vertically mounted with a strap)


Click the image to open in full size.

I am firing the sub backwards for now, but that may or may not change as I continue to tweak the system.


Click the image to open in full size.

Speaker wire goes down into removable floor then over to the amp. It's a pretty clean look without taking the time to actually CUT any holes. (which I refuse to so when I sell this car I don't have to deal with that mess)
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #13
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How do you keep the sub from shifting around during spirited driving?
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
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How do you keep the sub from shifting around during spirited driving?


The box with sub weighs in at around 40 pounds (about 18 Kilograms) and that weathertech liner is rather tacky so to be honest it stays in place pretty well during "spirited" driving.


Now that said I am keeping an eye on things and will install a strap (attached to the boot anchors) or possibly a carpeted hallow box to use as a wedge system (I've done that in previous vehicles before with carpeted boots)....but for now I've had no issues driving for a little more than a week with this in the back...
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Old 01-04-2015, 05:48 AM   #15
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Default Where did you tap into for amp input

Hi Stephen,

Nice setup. I essentially did the same exact thing with the amp in place of the air compressor. I just don't know where in the Factory amp to tap into. I want to grab the yellow/white and brown/yellow wire (I believe) before it goes into the amp. Then using the high level input on the Fosgate, just tap into that.

Any help there is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Brian

Last edited by brian5s; 01-04-2015 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Needed to be more specific
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:13 AM   #16
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I'm not 100% sure on this, but I believe the signal coming from the head to the amp is pure digital, and you may need a processor to convert it to an audio signal. That's the way it was in my last two vehicles, and I assume that's the way itin on the B&O.


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Hi Stephen,

Nice setup. I essentially did the same exact thing with the amp in place of the air compressor. I just don't know where in the Factory amp to tap into. I want to grab the yellow/white and brown/yellow wire (I believe) before it goes into the amp. Then using the high level input on the Fosgate, just tap into that.

Any help there is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Brian
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:03 PM   #17
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Wasn't there someone around that had taken a Kicker setup and it fit right in back of the spare so it couldn't be seen at all. And it was said to sound amazing. I just cannot find anything about it.
I would love to get more bass out of my B&O, but I wouldn't want it sitting in the truck, but rather hidden under the truck deck.
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:03 PM
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