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Do you think you could fit the amp in the storage space in front of ( or in back of depending on your point of view) the spare? There's quite a bit of space there so you might prevent heat buildup. I'm looking at a different slightly more compact Rockford Fosgate amp and am pretty sure itll fit in there but I haven't mocked it up yet.
Gotta tell you I haven't had much luck finding somebody in the same mindset as I for this setup, so, youre kind of being my for lack of a better term....Guinea Pig! But I really appreciate it!
Last time I installed car stereo equipment was thirty years ago and as you may know...THINGS HAVE CHANGED!
This Amp is actually pretty small so there is plenty of room left or right of the donut spare I'd bet to mount it...tho I'm still working the exact placement out, because yes heat build up is a concern as always. I've got podcast filming to do today and a house warming part later, but I should have time to wrap up everything tomorrow (hoping) so I can finalize the placement for all the wiring and amp (etc) and I know what you mean about having been a while, I used to be pretty hard core into car audio. Back in the 90's I had a 1995 Chewy S10 single cab truck with 4 10" Eclipse Subs and about 1000 watts behind the seat. And a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage (Lancer) with a Memphis 15" Sub with about 2200 watts in the boot.
But I will say the system tuned pretty well. It's still a little loser than I wanted (tho expected since I went with a vented port and not a sealed box)...
Installed and tuned now...sorry for crappy iPhone photos, but the rain was coming and I didn't have time to get better images today. Also forgive the dirty liner (I didn't have time to clean it up before the rain came either. But now if I need to remove this sub I can either pull the left panel and pull the fuse or wirenut the speaker wire ends and simply pull the box.
Will try to take some more pix later.
So what I ended up doing was removing the air compressor and simply putting it in the "bucket" that's in front of the spare tire then removing it's bracket and mounting a new strap I could free stand the Subwoofer AMP on it's side then strap it down. I think with all the free space around it that heat should be fine.
I've tuned the box and amp to sound pretty much perfectly at one click above MIN on the remote punch (mounted on the left side of my steering column on the dash, this way I can listen to the system as I would 90% of the time with just the right amount of bass to support he B&O system. But when I wanna get crazy and crank the **** out of this thing I can simply turn the **** and hit hard (about 148 SPL) without really trying...I could (provided I turned the GAIN and INPUT on the AMP go as high as 153 SPL but really I'm not doing car comps with this thing so it's plenty loud.
Remote Punch Volume **** (Double-sided Stick Tape - no way I'm screwing into that dash)
On another note I may cover that blue power light up with electrical tape (it's super bright)
Amp in the Driver side boot compartment where the air compressor usually is. (vertically mounted with a strap)
I am firing the sub backwards for now, but that may or may not change as I continue to tweak the system.
Speaker wire goes down into removable floor then over to the amp. It's a pretty clean look without taking the time to actually CUT any holes. (which I refuse to so when I sell this car I don't have to deal with that mess)
How do you keep the sub from shifting around during spirited driving?
The box with sub weighs in at around 40 pounds (about 18 Kilograms) and that weathertech liner is rather tacky so to be honest it stays in place pretty well during "spirited" driving.
Now that said I am keeping an eye on things and will install a strap (attached to the boot anchors) or possibly a carpeted hallow box to use as a wedge system (I've done that in previous vehicles before with carpeted boots)....but for now I've had no issues driving for a little more than a week with this in the back...
Nice setup. I essentially did the same exact thing with the amp in place of the air compressor. I just don't know where in the Factory amp to tap into. I want to grab the yellow/white and brown/yellow wire (I believe) before it goes into the amp. Then using the high level input on the Fosgate, just tap into that.
Any help there is much appreciated.
Thank you.
Brian
Last edited by brian5s; 01-04-2015 at 07:12 AM.
Reason: Needed to be more specific
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I believe the signal coming from the head to the amp is pure digital, and you may need a processor to convert it to an audio signal. That's the way it was in my last two vehicles, and I assume that's the way itin on the B&O.
Originally Posted by brian5s
Hi Stephen,
Nice setup. I essentially did the same exact thing with the amp in place of the air compressor. I just don't know where in the Factory amp to tap into. I want to grab the yellow/white and brown/yellow wire (I believe) before it goes into the amp. Then using the high level input on the Fosgate, just tap into that.
Wasn't there someone around that had taken a Kicker setup and it fit right in back of the spare so it couldn't be seen at all. And it was said to sound amazing. I just cannot find anything about it.
I would love to get more bass out of my B&O, but I wouldn't want it sitting in the truck, but rather hidden under the truck deck.
08-16-2014, 03:16 AM
