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Old 06-22-2014, 12:27 PM   #1
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Default Front tie-down points?

I was planning to put a canoe on the roof racks, and normally I'd secure that by cross-tying it to the front and rear tie-down points on a car, not just to the roof cross-bars, which are much less secure for a long load like that.

But of course, Audi doesn't have tie-down points, they've hidden the one front hard point behind a bezel, and with a tow hitch they delete the one rear hard point as well.

Has anyone found a good place to use, or to install tie-down points front or rear?

I'm thinking the simplest rear solution will be to put a 2" cross-bar into the trailer hitch, so there are points at both rear corners. But in the front...

Maybe removing the three outboard front screws from each side of the road pan, and fitting in a 1/4" plate to extend forward of the fascia and provide two convenient hard points up under there? Assuming what's under there is firm chassis metal, and that with proper bolts it will hold a reasonable load?
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:00 PM   #2
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Doesn't the Q5 come with a screw in tow hook for the front or rear? Why not just use that?
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:18 PM   #3
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Kris-
It comes with one of each, with complications. To use the one front tow point, you have to force out the right side fog lamp bezel. And risk breaking it. When I asked the service manager to show me how it pulled out, he couldn't do it, couldn't get a firm grip.
So to use the tow hook, you have to remove that bezel, if you can, and you know how "snap apart" plastic sometimes just breaks.
But assuming it does so without issues, that still leaves you with only one hard point. To secure a load from side-to-side shifting, you need two hard points, one on each side. If there's only one, it is best in the center, not off to one side. Yes you can "make do" with less, but there are proper ways to secure a load, and kludge jobs. I'd rather not kludge it.

Then there are the rear hard points. As I said, if you have a tow hitch, the factory DELETES THE ONE REAR TOW POINT entirely. So all I've got is the one centerline point, the hitch. I'll put a bar across that so it gives me two proper hard points, well separated, and not just one on the center. (If you have just the one factory tow point? You may also find that removing the plastic cover damages the paint on the bumper. Sometimes, it comes off with the cover, and then the cover stays loose and gets lost as well. Not impressive.)

Bottom line, if you have four good hard points, one at each corner, you can secure a load and KNOW that it is not moving, not shifting, not coming off. With just the factory cross bars? No really, does Audi think everyone who has ever loaded a pack mule doesn't understand how to secure a load? Audi are the only folks who don't even let you secure it from side to side. At all, with or without the bars.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redd View Post
I was planning to put a canoe on the roof racks, and normally I'd secure that by cross-tying it to the front and rear tie-down points on a car, not just to the roof cross-bars, which are much less secure for a long load like that.

But of course, Audi doesn't have tie-down points, they've hidden the one front hard point behind a bezel, and with a tow hitch they delete the one rear hard point as well.

Has anyone found a good place to use, or to install tie-down points front or rear?

I'm thinking the simplest rear solution will be to put a 2" cross-bar into the trailer hitch, so there are points at both rear corners. But in the front...

Maybe removing the three outboard front screws from each side of the road pan, and fitting in a 1/4" plate to extend forward of the fascia and provide two convenient hard points up under there? Assuming what's under there is firm chassis metal, and that with proper bolts it will hold a reasonable load?
Not that complicated...

I made two loops out of nylon strap and fastened them under the hood - one on each side. They stick out when I need them for the kayaks and I just fold them back when not needed. I do not use anything at the rear. I did this on the '11 2.0T and now the same on the '13 3.0T

I use the standard cross-bars with Yakima boat holders.

Have taken two kayaks over 85mph with this setup with no issues. The boats are an Epic GPX (13') and an Epic 16X (16').

I will take pics later and show.


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Old 06-23-2014, 09:03 AM   #5
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I did the same thing. Attaching to these:

Click the image to open in full size.

I padded the gap between the hood and fender with a strip of masking tape. Worked like a charm.


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Not that complicated...
I made two loops out of nylon strap and fastened them under the hood - one on each side. They stick out when I need them for the kayaks and I just fold them back when not needed. I do not use anything at the rear. I did this on the '11 2.0T and now the same on the '13 3.0T
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:46 AM   #6
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I made two loops out of nylon strap and fastened them under the hood - one on each side. They stick out when I need them for the kayaks and I just fold them back when not needed.
There are commercially available loops by Thule and Rhino. I see them quite a bit.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:03 AM   #7
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Interesting, thanks guys. I would never have thought of passing something up through the sides of the hood, would have thought it either wouldn't fit, or would damage the sides of the hood, pinching it.

Eric, Ford used to call those "K" arms, running from the shock towers back to the firewall usually, to stiffen the front end.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:03 AM
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