jjump

OK, all, after @ a month of research, I got a Dynavin N6-A5 and a Carsgadget backup camera.

I've traced over my research for wire routing, rear hatch removal, glove-box removal, etc, and feel ready to go for the install.

I would like to get a consensus on one issue I am trying to resolve that I got conflicting answers on....

Where do I get the ACC power for the camera? Directions are scarce for this, some say you use the reverse light for power AND trigger, but then I've read where there may not be enough juice for power and trigger.

Has anyone installed the camera that just ties into unit and not the AMI interface? How did you run ACC power for camera?

I thought about the mini-fuse tap shown in the original installation instructions, but this would give constant power to the camera while the ignition is on, and I am concerned that there should only be power to the camera when needed (in reverse).

Pictures attached....

THX

Wrex2008

I would personally use a relay to trigger from the reverse light. The "bulb out" system of the car causes some weird glitchy feedback across the power line when the reverse camera is powered directly from that circuit. Additionally, a small capacitor off of that relay would help with occasional sync issues from the camera powering up.

I ended up powering my Mercedes C-Class off of an accessory wire the last time I did one, so it was technically powered all the time, so I didn't have the sync problem, but in hindsight if I were really doing it the way I think is right, I would have used a relay on the reverse line, and then had 2 wires come off of that.

By doing both wires for cam power and trigger off of that relay, I know there's no transfer of interference, and the only thing to do is delay the trigger by just a hair (seriously a 10th of a second should do) so that the camera is fully powered up before the trigger makes the system look for the signal from the camera.

Does that make sense?

Wrex2008

^ This is what I'm talking about ^

Make that work with a small capacitor and everything should function flawlessly, without constantly powering the backup camera.

m1964

You can possibly tap into 12V outlet in the trunk? It is fused; or find an empty fuse slot that has 12 when ignition is ON (there is a fuse panel in the back (right side of the trunk).

waninae39

these are the fuses in the front
use a fuse tester to confirm which are powered with the key out





fuse block A




fuse block B & C

Bob Petruska

You need to use a relay to switch the 12V to the camera power. This is easy to do. First go buy Radio Shack relay 275-0031 (this is usually available in the stores all the time). This only requires 30mA for the coil current supplied by the backup light circuit and shouldn't throw warnings. You tap the camera supply 12 volts from the rear right side 12V accessory power connector. You will tap the backup light/relay coil 12V at that same right rear fuse panel. I believe it's a /black wire. Tomorrow I will tell you the exact wire and the position in the fuse panel connector. You are going to route the camera power and video cables from the hatch door down to the right rear fuse location anyway to get to the front of the vehicle so this camera supply power area is readily available to you. Your camera will only function when in reverse.

Remove the cargo left rear side panel.

Photo 1 shows where you will get the +12 volts for the relay "switched contacts" to power the camera power wire.

Photo 2 shows where the reverse back up light wire (white/black stripe) is located in the 17 pin connector (T17o), (it could be the other 17 pin connector on the top, I forgot which one it is). Check with a volt meter, You can turn on the car without the engine running and put the trans in reverse and check for the 12V at the white/black wire at the connector, there's enough pin metal at the wire end to make probe contact. Put trans in park and 12V should disappear. You tap into this wire for the relay coil control.

Good luck!

Andrea F

anybody know if they work fine together?

thanks