PLEASE READ - Oil Consumption - Necessary Steps
11-18-2013, 04:51 AM
#51
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Q5 2011 2.0 model
I have read your document, very well written. However not sure why you are so confident 2012 model and later does not have the problem, I bought brand new 2013 Q5 2.0 Quartro around March this year, the dealer here is very nice, they follow exactly the process as you listed above, before 5000 miles, my oil lights on two times. After 5000 mile break-in period, it happens again within 1800 miles, and they started monitoring and oil consumption test, and soon they confirmed the oil test is failed. what is even worse, they told me that the German engineers told them the engine has to be completely replaced to solve the issue. is it possible that the old 2011 engine is misplaced on my 2013 Q5? Now I am deeply worried that my "brand new" car loses its value with the replaced engine. ouch! just like a new baby has replaced his heart after 7 month. You know how I feel.
11-19-2013, 09:25 AM
#52
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I solved my problem with my oil burner....I traded it for a Toyota with a good engine. My economic loss in doing so was substantial. The oil consumption test,to borrow a phrase,is like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. They did the oil test, replaced PCV Valve and seals to no avail. The oil light still came on because this defective engine burns oil. I knew something was wrong when I started carrying a funnel and two extra quarts of oil with me in the car. California already has class action law suits on this issue. Best of luck.
01-22-2014, 08:26 PM
#53
My '10 VW Tig 2.0 TSI 6M w/APR at 54k burns zero oil.
If you are using Mobil 1 0w-40 and are burning oil, try a 5w-40, especially a HD diesel oil like Shell Rotella. I'd also skip on the 502 oil for top-off, a 15w-40 HD will put things right for $2. It'll add a bit more visc and a good punch of additives.
Another was to reduce oil burning is to add a bit of 2-cycle oil to the gas. At 500:1 (3-4oz per 10G) it lubes everything in the system, and contains loads of the same additives already in gasoline. The common TCW-3 spec is ashless. I buy by the gallon at W*M, Supertech. Again TCW-3 is a strict spec and ST meets it. Use double extra the first time so it can coat the fuel system parts. It protects from ethanol corrosion in the process. Great stuff, for $12 it replaces a gallon of fuel anyway! Trust me. imo, it pays for itself with mpg. It costs about a quarter to treat 10G, you just need an extra mile or two to break even.
Intake cleaning, pref under load, thru a vacuum tube will clear and free the piston rings. Soaking the intake with a light oil and solvent mix allows deposits to detach from the metal, rather than trying to dissolve them. Marvel Mystery oil (stoddard solvent) is good for this. I think outboard "fogger oil" would be a very convenient application. Fog the **** out of it, let sit overnight, then do a normal intake "Seafoam" cleaning.
Yes, I now have a Q5....3.2 I got it low miles, so it's just getting basic maintenance. After 2k, no oil consumption. fwiw, I use a lot of light 5w-30 "A5" synthetics from jugs at WalMart or FLAPS. I have UOAs from Caterpillar to back it up...minimal wear, less than or equal to the "best" Euro oils. A5 oils are just as "good" as A3 oils, aka VW 502, but they are thinner, much thinner on cold start. I'll leave you with a graph and a link....
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/tdtgcetc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tdtgcetc.jpg"/></a>
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html
If you are using Mobil 1 0w-40 and are burning oil, try a 5w-40, especially a HD diesel oil like Shell Rotella. I'd also skip on the 502 oil for top-off, a 15w-40 HD will put things right for $2. It'll add a bit more visc and a good punch of additives.
Another was to reduce oil burning is to add a bit of 2-cycle oil to the gas. At 500:1 (3-4oz per 10G) it lubes everything in the system, and contains loads of the same additives already in gasoline. The common TCW-3 spec is ashless. I buy by the gallon at W*M, Supertech. Again TCW-3 is a strict spec and ST meets it. Use double extra the first time so it can coat the fuel system parts. It protects from ethanol corrosion in the process. Great stuff, for $12 it replaces a gallon of fuel anyway! Trust me. imo, it pays for itself with mpg. It costs about a quarter to treat 10G, you just need an extra mile or two to break even.
Intake cleaning, pref under load, thru a vacuum tube will clear and free the piston rings. Soaking the intake with a light oil and solvent mix allows deposits to detach from the metal, rather than trying to dissolve them. Marvel Mystery oil (stoddard solvent) is good for this. I think outboard "fogger oil" would be a very convenient application. Fog the **** out of it, let sit overnight, then do a normal intake "Seafoam" cleaning.
Yes, I now have a Q5....3.2 I got it low miles, so it's just getting basic maintenance. After 2k, no oil consumption. fwiw, I use a lot of light 5w-30 "A5" synthetics from jugs at WalMart or FLAPS. I have UOAs from Caterpillar to back it up...minimal wear, less than or equal to the "best" Euro oils. A5 oils are just as "good" as A3 oils, aka VW 502, but they are thinner, much thinner on cold start. I'll leave you with a graph and a link....
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/tdtgcetc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tdtgcetc.jpg"/></a>
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html
01-22-2014, 08:36 PM
#54
Another issue, imo, is the new VW 504 LOW additive oils. The containers claim they meet VW 502 as well, but their chemistry is unable to to deal with the high sulphur and alcohol in our USA fuels. M1 5w-30 ESP and Dealer OE Castrol SLX Pro come to mind. There is a M1 5w-40 ESP which may deal with the physical effects of fuel-dilution from out rich-tune NA cars (for low-NOx emissions). No stratified mode either.
A high additive oil deals with our dirty fuels better. The FAR and away easiest call is Mobil 1 HIGH MILES. 3000ppm Calcium and 300ppm of boron is crazy. The 10w-30 meets A3, so does the 10w-40, very stout oils. The 5w-30 is lighter and meets A5, I use it often.
I have Castrol Edge w/Titanium additives in my Tig now. (Ultra 5w-40/5w-30 in the A5) Ti additives are for real, it gets worked into the metal lattice....google it. Kendall Ti is pretty easy to find, AutoZone carries it here.
A high additive oil deals with our dirty fuels better. The FAR and away easiest call is Mobil 1 HIGH MILES. 3000ppm Calcium and 300ppm of boron is crazy. The 10w-30 meets A3, so does the 10w-40, very stout oils. The 5w-30 is lighter and meets A5, I use it often.
I have Castrol Edge w/Titanium additives in my Tig now. (Ultra 5w-40/5w-30 in the A5) Ti additives are for real, it gets worked into the metal lattice....google it. Kendall Ti is pretty easy to find, AutoZone carries it here.
01-22-2014, 08:48 PM
#55
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/vw502.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo vw502.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/9b7398ac.jpg" border="0" alt="9b7398ac photo 9b7398ac.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/VOA20Mobil120HM2010W30.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VOA20Mobil120HM2010W30.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/9b7398ac.jpg" border="0" alt="9b7398ac photo 9b7398ac.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/VOA20Mobil120HM2010W30.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VOA20Mobil120HM2010W30.jpg"/></a>
01-23-2014, 06:18 PM
#56
AudiWorld Super User
Audi Junkie, you still lurk around here????
My '10 VW Tig 2.0 TSI 6M w/APR at 54k burns zero oil.
If you are using Mobil 1 0w-40 and are burning oil, try a 5w-40, especially a HD diesel oil like Shell Rotella. I'd also skip on the 502 oil for top-off, a 15w-40 HD will put things right for $2. It'll add a bit more visc and a good punch of additives.
Another was to reduce oil burning is to add a bit of 2-cycle oil to the gas. At 500:1 (3-4oz per 10G) it lubes everything in the system, and contains loads of the same additives already in gasoline. The common TCW-3 spec is ashless. I buy by the gallon at W*M, Supertech. Again TCW-3 is a strict spec and ST meets it. Use double extra the first time so it can coat the fuel system parts. It protects from ethanol corrosion in the process. Great stuff, for $12 it replaces a gallon of fuel anyway! Trust me. imo, it pays for itself with mpg. It costs about a quarter to treat 10G, you just need an extra mile or two to break even.
Intake cleaning, pref under load, thru a vacuum tube will clear and free the piston rings. Soaking the intake with a light oil and solvent mix allows deposits to detach from the metal, rather than trying to dissolve them. Marvel Mystery oil (stoddard solvent) is good for this. I think outboard "fogger oil" would be a very convenient application. Fog the **** out of it, let sit overnight, then do a normal intake "Seafoam" cleaning.
Yes, I now have a Q5....3.2 I got it low miles, so it's just getting basic maintenance. After 2k, no oil consumption. fwiw, I use a lot of light 5w-30 "A5" synthetics from jugs at WalMart or FLAPS. I have UOAs from Caterpillar to back it up...minimal wear, less than or equal to the "best" Euro oils. A5 oils are just as "good" as A3 oils, aka VW 502, but they are thinner, much thinner on cold start. I'll leave you with a graph and a link....
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/tdtgcetc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tdtgcetc.jpg"/></a>
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html
If you are using Mobil 1 0w-40 and are burning oil, try a 5w-40, especially a HD diesel oil like Shell Rotella. I'd also skip on the 502 oil for top-off, a 15w-40 HD will put things right for $2. It'll add a bit more visc and a good punch of additives.
Another was to reduce oil burning is to add a bit of 2-cycle oil to the gas. At 500:1 (3-4oz per 10G) it lubes everything in the system, and contains loads of the same additives already in gasoline. The common TCW-3 spec is ashless. I buy by the gallon at W*M, Supertech. Again TCW-3 is a strict spec and ST meets it. Use double extra the first time so it can coat the fuel system parts. It protects from ethanol corrosion in the process. Great stuff, for $12 it replaces a gallon of fuel anyway! Trust me. imo, it pays for itself with mpg. It costs about a quarter to treat 10G, you just need an extra mile or two to break even.
Intake cleaning, pref under load, thru a vacuum tube will clear and free the piston rings. Soaking the intake with a light oil and solvent mix allows deposits to detach from the metal, rather than trying to dissolve them. Marvel Mystery oil (stoddard solvent) is good for this. I think outboard "fogger oil" would be a very convenient application. Fog the **** out of it, let sit overnight, then do a normal intake "Seafoam" cleaning.
Yes, I now have a Q5....3.2 I got it low miles, so it's just getting basic maintenance. After 2k, no oil consumption. fwiw, I use a lot of light 5w-30 "A5" synthetics from jugs at WalMart or FLAPS. I have UOAs from Caterpillar to back it up...minimal wear, less than or equal to the "best" Euro oils. A5 oils are just as "good" as A3 oils, aka VW 502, but they are thinner, much thinner on cold start. I'll leave you with a graph and a link....
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/AutoOil/tdtgcetc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tdtgcetc.jpg"/></a>
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html
Nice to see you back.........
Bob P.
01-27-2014, 07:26 PM
#58
AudiWorld Super User
By my calculation that is 1L every 25000 km, which is really good, assuming that by 80% full you mean as shown on the MMI. Top to bottom of the bar graph is 1 L.
01-28-2014, 07:02 AM
#59
AudiWorld Member
2013/03/16 - 2013/05/16 @ 4,500km (25% full via MMI).
***filled up and MMI shows (100%).
2013/09/16 8,100km service 1 (MMI 100%).
2014/01/27 13,200km - engine oil (MMI shows 80% full).
*** from now until my next service at 23,100km, I think the remaining engine oil (80% full via MMI) should last until then.
2013 Audi Q5 2.0T P+
