HaveBullDogWillTravel

I rotated my tires this weekend and took the time to disassemble a few things for the benefit of those that will be changing out their own brakes. This has to be the easiest brake change ever. I'll skip over the obvious stuff like pad removal and replacement and correct torquing of the wheel lug bolts. If you cannot figure that out on your own you'd be well advised to let someone else deal with your brakes.

Removing the caliper spring clip is super simple and will NOT go flying into someone's eye or across the garage floor if you do it like this...
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/PdEOr1AmGhk?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

To replace the clip during re-assembly, do this. It is very important that you take care to center this clip against the caliper and leave just enough room for the locking tab to pass the face of the caliper. Correct postioning of the clip before pushing into place is paramount. Be advised, it does take some strength and a bit of finesse. Both of which I have been blessed...
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/u8AV6PgjMyU?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

In order to remove the caliper from the bracket one must remove the two bolts using a 13mm wrench. I choose a 6pt. box end because it's too simple to require a socket wrench and the 6pt box end is MUCH less likely to slip off and damage the bolt head. Once the bolts are out just pry the caliper up from the bottom and then pry it out and away from the top. Literally, it takes about one minute to get it off.
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OWr7eiSjHhc?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here are the tools I used to complete the task of changing front brakes:
Large and small Slot screwdrivers
13mm 6pt Combination wrench
21mm short 6pt socket and breaker bar
Click type torque wrench with 19mm lug socket
anti seize compound
anti-squeal compound
flashlight and droplight
floor jack
large slip joint pliars for squeezing the caliper piston back in place(mine were just large enough)
spray brake cleaner

Not shown:
Misc. rags and a pile of torn cheapazz nitrile gloves, 3/8" ratchet and T30 Torx bit to remove the rotor retaining bolt, 1 empty bottle of Abt 12. Concerning the rotor retaing bolt. It is snug, not tight. It's only purpose is to hold the rotor in position long enough to get the wheel bolted to the hub. Do NOT tighten past "snug". And do not remove it before removing the capliper bracket. If you do, the rotor will be flopping all over and make the caliper bracket removal a PITA.

I support the caliper with an empty paint can on top of an inverted oil drain pan...not pretty but it's easier than wiring it up with tie-wire


Removal of the caliper bracket is daunting because the bolts are TIGHT and you are working from behind the hub. I use a breaker bar and 21mm 6pt socket. The 6pt socket is very important because you do not want it to slip off and consequently wreck your knuckles as well as the bolt head. Re-assembly is also tough because you have to tighten them as much as you can. My torque wrench will not fit into the wheel well so I just tighten them as much as possible and that will have to do. There's no way I could ever tighten them enough to wring them off.


When working on the driver's side of the car you must remove the wear sensor from the inside pad by pulling it straight out. Remove the wire from under the retainer casting and then remove the sensor. I just use my fingers but you may want to use needle nosed pliars.


The sensor wire is tethered to the hub/strut unit and needs to be removed to make room for the 21mm socket to fit onto the top caliper bracket bolt. It is easily removed with a small slot screwdriver like so...
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/oBObDUX-VC0?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Lastly, I always apply a coat of anti-seize compound to the face of the hub where the wheel contacts it. Probably not necessary but it prevents the hub from rusting and oxidizing the wheel to the hub.


I create this thread not to diminish what has already been posted nor to insult those that already know all of this but to assist those here that are willing to take on this DIY but have little knowledge and experience with the Q5 front brakes. Sorry about the shizzy pics but they looked good on my iPhone. Carry on!

q5dave

Great job. Thats allot of effort to help others out. Much appreciated here.
how many miles did you have on your Q?

Reggie

Nice - you should send this to Kris and have him make it a tech bulletin

q5dave

Also how did you compress the piston? on other vehicles I use a BIG C Clamp.
I read somewhere that some pistons actually screw in and out. Maybe thats for the back brakes ??
Thanks

HaveBullDogWillTravel

front piston retracts with large ChannelLock pliars...they got to be BIG. C-clamp would also work.

Back brake pistons are only retracted electronically with Vag-Com. Works perfectly with Vag-Com...without, you're stuck.

Some vehicles do have screw in rear pistons that are forced in with a special tool(non-electronic retraction). My Mini had this.

HaveBullDogWillTravel

I'm at 34K.

q5dave

ok, thanks allot

Coolieman1220

This is AWESOME DIY!!!

1atlas

Awsome. Thank you so much!

lmariorod

Nice post. Question...did you need to replace them at 34K? Seems like the pads resting on the paint can still have a lot of meat on them???