Q7 MK 1 Discussion Discussion forum for the Audi Q7 SUV built from 2005 to 2015

2011 Q7 trailer hitch install

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Old 08-17-2016, 04:39 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cmarshack
Thanks for all the info here and I am sure I will have more questions when my hitch gets here, but first question is:

Can I re-use the bolts that hold the non-hitch bumper reinforcement when installing the tow bar? I bought one from a salvage yard and it will likely not show up with the mounting bolts. I want to order them before I get into the job if i cannot re-use the ones holding the old part in place.

No, you can not use the non-hitch bolts. They are much shorter.


I ordered PN N91029202 for my 2011 Q7


https://www.ecstuning.com/ES471648/
Old 08-17-2016, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GTPlus
No, you can not use the non-hitch bolts. They are much shorter.


I ordered PN N91029202 for my 2011 Q7


https://www.ecstuning.com/ES471648/
That is what I suspected...thanks for validating!
Old 08-18-2016, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cmarshack
That is what I suspected...thanks for validating!
Do you have the trailer module already installed? You might need that as well. I will be installing my hitch this weekend. Take pictures and post them when you get done!
Old 08-19-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisw83
Do you have the trailer module already installed? You might need that as well. I will be installing my hitch this weekend. Take pictures and post them when you get done!
I do not have the module already installed and might have to add that after the fact...I am waiting to see what shows up with my hitch before I buy a module. I am hoping they send it with the harness, but either way I got a very good deal on the hitch and wire harness.

I will take pics when i do my install, if anyone has anything they want me to highlight that is not already covered in this tread...now it the time.
Old 08-19-2016, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cmarshack
I do not have the module already installed and might have to add that after the fact...I am waiting to see what shows up with my hitch before I buy a module. I am hoping they send it with the harness, but either way I got a very good deal on the hitch and wire harness.

I will take pics when i do my install, if anyone has anything they want me to highlight that is not already covered in this tread...now it the time.

I did my install tonight, took longer than expected but I work slower to make sure I brake nothing and do things right. A few notes.

I am stuck on the programming part, I have the vag-com but what is on page 2 just doesnt fit with what I see, must be an update to the software or something.

-Unhooking the battery is a bitch, it is under the driver seat.

-The pre-wire for the trailer module is right above the ecu. Its attached to a piece of plastic, you have to unclip it. Very simple.

-The piece that broke in the tutorial is easy to break, take your time with that. If you take 2 small flat head screw drivers you can wedge them in so the clips are easier to get out but you still have to be rough with it.

-You dont have to undo the wiring in the bumper, just prop it up and dont let it move or you will scratch it.
Old 08-20-2016, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pcoliver
As Promised, here are my settings based on my 2011 Q7 features. Your changes may vary based on additional features you may have like Lane Assist and Level Lontrol.

My specific changes are in Bold underline.
Trailer Hitch Retrofitting (4L)
From Ross-Tech Wiki Configuration
The following Activations are necessary to ensure that the newly fitted parts are properly recognized and are ready to use.

1-Update the Installation List in the Gateway (J533 / #19). Register the newly added 69 - Trailer Control Module via the Installation List Function. (I just checked the “Trailer” check box)
2-Update the Trailer Control Module (J345 / #69) Coding.(I set mine to “2”)-Not all Retrofitting Kits contain Diagnostic capable Trailer Control Modules, some Aftermarket Modules may even be pre-coded. This Step can be ignored for Modules which are not Diagnostic capable. Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS. If an Aftermarket Module is installed, check the Retrofitting Kit for further Instructions.
3-Update the Engine Control Module (J623 / #01) Coding. (not applicable to my Q7)
 Make sure that the Engine is NOT running, otherwise the new Coding will be rejected. Models equipped with Start/Stop System do have a Shutoff Switch/Button which will deactivate the Start/Stop Function.
 For Engines with a 2nd Engine Control Module (J624 / #11) this needs to be coded as well.
 As a Rule of Thumb, If the Engine uses conventional Short Coding (Coding is 7-digits like 0011312) the Long Codding Assistant does NOT apply. Modules using Short Coding typically do NOT support or require Trailer Configuration Coding. If the Engine Control Module uses a Long Coding the Activation is done in (Long) Coding itself through via Coding Assist. Please also note that there are different Coding Variants for Long Coding.
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS.
4-Update the Brake Electronics (J104 / #03) Configuration. (Did not change anything here)
 To enable the Trailer Stabilization Subtract 0000016 from the existing Coding (e.g. 0033937 - 0000016 = 0033921).
 Additional Information may be shown once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
5-Update the Level Control (J197 / #34) Coding, if installed. (Not applicable to my Q7)
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
6-Update the Parking Aid (J446 / #76) Coding, if installed. ( initial setting was 0221266 and changed it to 0231266)
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
7-Update the Rear View Camera (J772 / #6C) Coding, if installed. (initial setting was 1021101 and changed it to 1031101)
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
8-Update the Lane Change Assist (J769 / #3C) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
9-Update the Distance Regulation (J428 / #13) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
 Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
I am not sure if it is just me but this looks foriegn with my vag-com. Anyone done the install recently with a 2013+ and latest vag-com?

Here is my scan output: http://pastebin.com/gakY76M4

Thanks!
Old 08-24-2016, 10:39 AM
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Default Getting voltage output of 2.5v to 5v.

Hey, Glad to see an active thread for the Q7! I have an '07 4.2 and I recently installed the OEM prewired hitch. I also purchased the OEM Trailer Control Module. I have 12v power at the car wiring harness. When I hook up the module I am only getting a fluctuating reading of 2.5v to 5v on the output side of the module. I get the same fluctuating reading at the 7pin hitch plug once I hook the module up all the way.

I'll double check my coding to make sure there are no errors there....especially on the ROW setting?

Does the trailer actually have to be physically attached to the hitch to complete the ground and get the 12v reading?


Just want to see what I might be missing. If nobody knows the answer, maybe someone wouldn't mind checking the voltage at their 7pin plug on the hitch for me? Are you getting 12v there or this fluctuating 2.5v to 5v.

Also...I had bought a used module for $75 first....then bought one new because I thought that could be the issue but it's not......oops! One is going back! ha


Thanks in advance!!
Kyle
Old 08-24-2016, 10:54 AM
  #68  
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I believe the vehicle must sense the attached trailer wiring before it applies full power from the module.

Grey
Old 08-24-2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Greystoke
I believe the vehicle must sense the attached trailer wiring before it applies full power from the module.

Grey
Oh ok, I'll give that a shot. I'm actually testing the wiring on a '65 Airstream. So I had the Q backed up to the camper and hooked up the trailer plug but didn't have the car on the ball. I was still only getting 2.5v to 5v at the back of the camper where the junction box is. I also only have the lights partially hooked up since I'm still figuring out the LED markers and tail lights so I hope that doesn't throw things off as well.

If someone is able to check how many volts they have at their hitch without a trailer hooked up, that would be incredibly helpful!
Old 08-25-2016, 06:06 PM
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The Audi hardware will not drive LED turns/brakes, FYI. They must be incan or you must run an adapter. Otherwise it throws a light-out error during trailer light check (yes...) and they just blink due to the voltage cycling. I partially converted my small utility trailer and have left the other trailers incan. I do have the Curt 57003 adapter, however, to allow full trailer LEDs.


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