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Broken EGR valve

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Old 01-24-2015, 04:38 AM
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Default Broken EGR valve

Hello!

My EGR valve (Q7'08 3.0 TDI) got broken this week. I have order the spare part (059 131 501H) to replace it. Do you have any idea if it is hard to do that? Any tricks?

Thank you in advance for any advices!
Paul
Old 01-24-2015, 09:32 AM
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Paul

Do not know this will help since the info is from a USA 3.0 CATA and not a Europe one.
This is what I have.

Q7 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Mot.pdf

Q7 Exhaust Gas Recirculation TQ.pdf

Q7 Procedures coolant.pdf

Mine 3.0 have coolant by-pass I do not think you have coolant erg system, but info is attach just in case.

Hope this helps
Old 01-24-2015, 01:55 PM
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Hi Smith!

I think it is very helpful information for me. Right, I am from Europe but seems that my engine has very similar infrastucture. It is CASA engine code. I appriciate your help and quick response.

Thanks again and have a niece weekend!
Old 01-24-2015, 02:23 PM
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Smith, sorry to bother you.

Maybe you have also info how to disassembly the whole EGR valve? The same like in the 1st link the motor exchange is shown?

Thank you in advance!
Old 01-24-2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul_Sz
Smith, sorry to bother you.

Maybe you have also info how to disassembly the whole EGR valve? The same like in the 1st link the motor exchange is shown?

Thank you in advance!
Paul

Sorry The manual does not break down the EGR motor. I read on other threads that no one has taken it apart, but just clean it as is.
Old 01-24-2015, 11:27 PM
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Anyhow, thanks a lot for your great support in this matter!

Kind Regards
Paul
Old 01-25-2015, 10:28 AM
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Hello again!

I would like to know your opinion. I have complete new valve but changing it of corse is much more complicated than replacing only the motor part. What should I do in your opinion? Disassembly from new part only motor and replace it with the broken part or try to change complete old valve with the new one? Looking to the manual from Smith I can see that motor I can remove only by disconnecting plug and unscrew 3 screws. To exchange complete valve is much more dificult. I know that better is to change complete but it is also more risky.

Thanks!

The valve is like that;





Old 01-25-2015, 03:01 PM
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Paul

Hate to say this, but you have to replace the hole thing. Problem by taken apart the new valve is that it is bench tested and adjusted by the repair manual. You are messing with the shaft and valve that is attach inside the tube.
The carbon is to great inside the tube which can cause by your old one to burn up.
I recommend to get new bolts and used antzie on the new bolts it will be easy to installed.

Recommend also a professional do the job if you might have a hard time, plus you can damage the engine if not done correctly.
Old 01-25-2015, 09:47 PM
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You are completely right. I will ask Professional to do the job because I am not skill enought and hope same special tooling is needed.

Thanks a lot for your opinion!
Nice day 4U!
Old 01-28-2015, 09:31 AM
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Dear,

I would like to share my expirience here, maybe someone in the future will have the same issue. The valve is already changed by my mechanic. I saw whole the process and I can say that it was not so dificult but anyhow needs same expirience. The most dificult for us was one small screw from bottom of the valve which assembly it to the bracket. Whole process took around 2 hours. As Smith mentioned, there was also cooling by-pass but it was not necassary to empty all the system and re-fill it again, only to add same partion of G13. It was needed to replace 3 seals, we keep the same assembly screws. Finally Engine Check Light error was cleaned. No addaptation of the new part was required. Now everything is working properly and I am happy again.

Kind Regards
Paul


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