smith2010Q7

I did not want to high jack the last thread so here is mine

This article shows how to change the engine oil on a 3.0L V6 Audi Q7 TDI.

Introduction

First, always use VW spec 507.00 engine oil. This is currently the only oil specification approved for use on your engine. Long story short, the reason why is because it's low ash and will not shorten the life of the DPF filter. See 1000q: DPF FAQ for Touareg and Q7 for a detailed explanation. When using this oil, the recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles. If the dealer is changing the oil, make sure they use VW 507.00 spec oil. It's 5w-30 synthetic.


Oil extraction from the top is the factory approved method. I prefer to drain the oil from the bottom because it lets you inspect the stuff underneath. The pictures and the basic procedure.

Audi recommends that you replace the oil drain plug and washer every time you drain the oil. There have some been posts about the aluminum oil pan threads being stripped when you over torque the oil plug. That is one advantage to extracting; you will not have to replace the plug or chance stripping the oil pan threads.

This will be pretty brief, as most who will tackle this themselves most likely won't need any assistance, but thought it may be useful for someone who needs a bit of extra confidence before deciding to do it themselves.

1. Jackstand/ramp safety you know the drill.

2. Remove the splash shield by undoing all the screws around the perimeter. The ones up front are torx 20's, the ones on the sides and back are fast-drive types, they have a phillips head but I find it easier to just use a big slotted driver. You do not need to remove the line of torx screws a couple inches behind the front edge, they are for the stiffener for the shield.

The oil plug needs a 6mm hex driver/allen wrench. (about a 3/8" Dr. Extra Long Hex Bit Socket 6mm) cause the stab bar is in the way. Remove it and drain the oil(HOT,HOT OIL no stopping it.) Reinstall with a new oil plug washer (N0138157) and TQ to 22ft lbs.



Parts and tools to drain the engine oil
1 oil filter: VW# 057 115 561 m (057115561m)
32mm 6 point socket (or 1 1/4" socket)
oil extractor from pela or substitute device



9 Liters 5w-30 engine oil - some 507.00 approved types are:
Castrol SLX Pro. LL03 5w-30 (in the gold bottle)
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
Motul Specific VW 507
Total Quartz Ineo 5w-30 VW 507
AMSOIL European Car Formula 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Low-SAPS (507.00)
Total 504/507
Pentosin Super Performance III
Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200
Blauparts have oil change kits include (oil,filter,and lower plug)
IDPARTS also has change kits for 10,000 / and 20,000.

Engine oil change procedure on Audi Q7 TDI
On a warm but not hot engine, apply the parking brake, shut off the engine, and open the hood. About 45 minutes is enough to let the engine cool down a little.



Remove the plastic engine cover by pulling up on each corner. A warm engine also softens the rubber grommets that hold the cover's pegs (white arrows below). Set it aside.



There are two wires over the filter cap. You could just push them out of the way, but the original author chose to unplug to make things easier. Each plug has a little tab that locks the plug in place. Pull the tab back slightly to release the hook lock and push the plug "in" slightly before pulling it back because many times the hook sticks. Never pull by the wires, always pull by the plastic plug. (yellow arrows below).



Use a 32mm (6 point) or 1 1/4" socket to loosen counterclockwise the oil filter housing cap. As you loosen the cap, you may hear oil dripping from the filter housing back into the drain pan. Place a rag around the filter cap and lift it straight up and away.

Note - the reason why the factory says to remove the oil filter first is because there's some oil held in the filter housing by a valve. Draining the oil from the pan before removing the filter won't change the oil in the housing until the filter is removed.



The replacement oil filter unit comes with a new o-ring for its cap. Remove the old o-ring and slightly wet the new o-ring with oil when installing it. The new filter should snap into the filter cap with the extension facing down or away from the cap. Make sure the o-ring is seated correctly all the way around the cap.



Pour some oil into the filter housing just to wet it. It won't fill because the filter isn't in place.

Replace the cap/filter by using light down pressure to get the first few threads to engage. You'll notice that as you reinstall the cap, the filter rotates into position in the housing so that the cap will drop down to allow engagement of the threads. This is important as the filter has to be in the proper and correct position to allow this to happen - do not force the filter housing cap down with force as you may end up with a improperly installed filter or break the filter extension.

Don't overtighten it, let the o-ring do its job sealing. Overtightening will damage the o-ring. (On the cap is a TQ spec to follow)

Use a funnel to add 9 liters of new motor oil or until the dipstick shows full. After it shows full, replace the 2 plugs you removed earlier.



Start the engine and let it run for a minute. It may go down slightly as the filter housing fills up. Go for a test drive and check for any leaks. There should be none. The owners manual says wait a couple of min when the engine is off and check the oil. Used the picture in the book for the correct level.

Enjoy the results of your work and here is hoping that the above provided some helpful information. As usual, perform this at your own risk and only do it if you are comfortable working on your vehicle and you have access to all the proper and needed tools/equipment.

Old oil disposal: some towns have local hazardous waste drop offs. Most auto parts stores will take your used oil for free. If you still can't find a local waste disposal, Earth911.com can search for one.

If some oil spilled onto the driveway it can cause stains. First wipe up any excess and then pour a little spill absorber or basic kitty litter onto it. Step and crush the pebbles into dust and let it sit. It will absorb the stain. You can also use a piece of cardboard as a placemat.

Hope this helps

sjsuQ7

Nice write-up and pictures, this is pretty much the same for the 2011 Q7 TDI.

smith2010Q7

Thank You
It took me about three hours to upload.
I agree for your 2011, I think all the 3.0 TDI for 2010-2015 will be the same maintenance task. Maybe more, but do not know to much from 2009-2007?

Edd W

I got hold of a magnetic drain plug for my 4.2tdi - I guess pretty much all VAG engines use the same plug - I am not sure if it's really worth using but it is interesting to see how much material accumulates at each oil change.

maximq7

What kind of container are you using to hold 9 liters of used engine oil? My old drain pans don't hold that much...

smith2010Q7

I used the new Flotool 42004 oil pan drain 24qts.
I also have a F250 that holds 15qts of oil. Which this pan is also perfect.

Amazon has it on there site.

Also ECS tuning has a 10L one.
Audi Q7 TDI Search SiteSearch Oil Pan - ECS Tuning

smith2010Q7

Good Idea on the plug; I do the same, but on oil samples at every 10,000 oil change to see my material.

Are plug if interesting is the same (M14x1.5MM)

Homebrewbaker

Great info on the oil change. I really like the pictures. I bought a case of Amsoil 5w30 507.00 spec. and want to use it in my 2011 TDI (64K). I have Mobile 1 ESP in the crank right now. I did notice I have had to top off a liter over the 10K interval. I am hoping the Amsoil since it has a lower NOACK (Evaporation) than Mobile 1 or Castrol that I might see less topping off of the volume over the 10K interval? Anyone running Amsoil and noticing a difference?

smith2010Q7

Yes I run AMSOIL for my 2010, 507. I have 75,000 and my 9L last the whole 10,000 miles without adding oil for top off.
It also feels wonderful.

lentiman

for those with a late 2015 TDI the filter lister in this thread is incompatible. The correct part number for the newer TDI oil filter is 059 198 405. They are completely different sizes with the new part number being about half the length.