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DIY Oil Change on a Q7 TDI 3.0L CATA Diesel

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Old 12-31-2015, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lentiman
for those with a late 2015 TDI the filter lister in this thread is incompatible. The correct part number for the newer TDI oil filter is 059 198 405. They are completely different sizes with the new part number being about half the length.
It's also a lot easier to access without having to remove electrical plugs and wires.
Old 01-02-2016, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DUTCH VanAtlanta
It's also a lot easier to access without having to remove electrical plugs and wires.
I'd also like to add for the 2015 that a regular length 3/8 drive 6mm alen with a extension will work for the base pan plug. The long one pictured earlier is not needed but will still work fine if your looking for an excuse to get a new tool lol. And my dip stick showed full at 8 litres. Good write up to the original poster real informative for the first change!!
Old 01-02-2016, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by smith2010Q7
I did not want to high jack the last thread so here is mine

This article shows how to change the engine oil on a 3.0L V6 Audi Q7 TDI.

Introduction

First, always use VW spec 507.00 engine oil. This is currently the only oil specification approved for use on your engine. Long story short, the reason why is because it's low ash and will not shorten the life of the DPF filter. See 1000q: DPF FAQ for Touareg and Q7 for a detailed explanation. When using this oil, the recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles. If the dealer is changing the oil, make sure they use VW 507.00 spec oil. It's 5w-30 synthetic.


Oil extraction from the top is the factory approved method. I prefer to drain the oil from the bottom because it lets you inspect the stuff underneath. The pictures and the basic procedure.

Audi recommends that you replace the oil drain plug and washer every time you drain the oil. There have some been posts about the aluminum oil pan threads being stripped when you over torque the oil plug. That is one advantage to extracting; you will not have to replace the plug or chance stripping the oil pan threads.

This will be pretty brief, as most who will tackle this themselves most likely won't need any assistance, but thought it may be useful for someone who needs a bit of extra confidence before deciding to do it themselves.

1. Jackstand/ramp safety you know the drill.

2. Remove the splash shield by undoing all the screws around the perimeter. The ones up front are torx 20's, the ones on the sides and back are fast-drive types, they have a phillips head but I find it easier to just use a big slotted driver. You do not need to remove the line of torx screws a couple inches behind the front edge, they are for the stiffener for the shield.

The oil plug needs a 6mm hex driver/allen wrench. (about a 3/8" Dr. Extra Long Hex Bit Socket 6mm) cause the stab bar is in the way. Remove it and drain the oil(HOT,HOT OIL no stopping it.) Reinstall with a new oil plug washer (N0138157) and TQ to 22ft lbs.



Parts and tools to drain the engine oil
1 oil filter: VW# 057 115 561 m (057115561m)
32mm 6 point socket (or 1 1/4" socket)
oil extractor from pela or substitute device



9 Liters 5w-30 engine oil - some 507.00 approved types are:
Castrol SLX Pro. LL03 5w-30 (in the gold bottle)
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
Motul Specific VW 507
Total Quartz Ineo 5w-30 VW 507
AMSOIL European Car Formula 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Low-SAPS (507.00)
Total 504/507
Pentosin Super Performance III
Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200
Blauparts have oil change kits include (oil,filter,and lower plug)
IDPARTS also has change kits for 10,000 / and 20,000.

Engine oil change procedure on Audi Q7 TDI
On a warm but not hot engine, apply the parking brake, shut off the engine, and open the hood. About 45 minutes is enough to let the engine cool down a little.



Remove the plastic engine cover by pulling up on each corner. A warm engine also softens the rubber grommets that hold the cover's pegs (white arrows below). Set it aside.



There are two wires over the filter cap. You could just push them out of the way, but the original author chose to unplug to make things easier. Each plug has a little tab that locks the plug in place. Pull the tab back slightly to release the hook lock and push the plug "in" slightly before pulling it back because many times the hook sticks. Never pull by the wires, always pull by the plastic plug. (yellow arrows below).



Use a 32mm (6 point) or 1 1/4" socket to loosen counterclockwise the oil filter housing cap. As you loosen the cap, you may hear oil dripping from the filter housing back into the drain pan. Place a rag around the filter cap and lift it straight up and away.

Note - the reason why the factory says to remove the oil filter first is because there's some oil held in the filter housing by a valve. Draining the oil from the pan before removing the filter won't change the oil in the housing until the filter is removed.



The replacement oil filter unit comes with a new o-ring for its cap. Remove the old o-ring and slightly wet the new o-ring with oil when installing it. The new filter should snap into the filter cap with the extension facing down or away from the cap. Make sure the o-ring is seated correctly all the way around the cap.



Pour some oil into the filter housing just to wet it. It won't fill because the filter isn't in place.

Replace the cap/filter by using light down pressure to get the first few threads to engage. You'll notice that as you reinstall the cap, the filter rotates into position in the housing so that the cap will drop down to allow engagement of the threads. This is important as the filter has to be in the proper and correct position to allow this to happen - do not force the filter housing cap down with force as you may end up with a improperly installed filter or break the filter extension.

Don't overtighten it, let the o-ring do its job sealing. Overtightening will damage the o-ring. (On the cap is a TQ spec to follow)

Use a funnel to add 9 liters of new motor oil or until the dipstick shows full. After it shows full, replace the 2 plugs you removed earlier.



Start the engine and let it run for a minute. It may go down slightly as the filter housing fills up. Go for a test drive and check for any leaks. There should be none. The owners manual says wait a couple of min when the engine is off and check the oil. Used the picture in the book for the correct level.

Enjoy the results of your work and here is hoping that the above provided some helpful information. As usual, perform this at your own risk and only do it if you are comfortable working on your vehicle and you have access to all the proper and needed tools/equipment.

Old oil disposal: some towns have local hazardous waste drop offs. Most auto parts stores will take your used oil for free. If you still can't find a local waste disposal, Earth911.com can search for one.

If some oil spilled onto the driveway it can cause stains. First wipe up any excess and then pour a little spill absorber or basic kitty litter onto it. Step and crush the pebbles into dust and let it sit. It will absorb the stain. You can also use a piece of cardboard as a placemat.

Hope this helps
Hi, Thanks for this.

A quick (silly perhaps) question. You mention the oil extractor, and oil extraction from the top, but this is not what you do in your description? Also you first list the opening of the oil plug and draining, then you describe the need to remove the filter for all oil to drain. Is there a best order here? Plug first then oil filter so oil continues to drain? Sorry if this seems semantic.
Old 01-02-2016, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by barga
Hi, Thanks for this.

A quick (silly perhaps) question. You mention the oil extractor, and oil extraction from the top, but this is not what you do in your description? Also you first list the opening of the oil plug and draining, then you describe the need to remove the filter for all oil to drain. Is there a best order here? Plug first then oil filter so oil continues to drain? Sorry if this seems semantic.
An oil extractor from the top uses vacuum to suck the oil out through the dip stick tube. Much easier and cleaner than draining it out the bottom of the engine.

Just be sure to loosen and remove the oil filter before you either drain or extract all the old oil out.
Old 01-02-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DUTCH VanAtlanta
An oil extractor from the top uses vacuum to suck the oil out through the dip stick tube. Much easier and cleaner than draining it out the bottom of the engine.

Just be sure to loosen and remove the oil filter before you either drain or extract all the old oil out.
Hi, yes, thanks, I think I understand how an extractor works, but just puzzled why it is part of the tools required but then it's use it not mentioned? Maybe I am just being picky, as I read through the very good illustrated guide.
Old 01-03-2016, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by barga
Hi, yes, thanks, I think I understand how an extractor works, but just puzzled why it is part of the tools required but then it's use it not mentioned? Maybe I am just being picky, as I read through the very good illustrated guide.
I think he just included the "Audi service manual way" but chose to use the drain plug (the better way in my opinion).
Old 01-03-2016, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by meob
I think he just included the "Audi service manual way" but chose to use the drain plug (the better way in my opinion).
Got it...

Best suggested place to buy oil drain plug, seal and oil filter?
Old 01-03-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by barga
Got it...

Best suggested place to buy oil drain plug, seal and oil filter?
I'm in Newfoundland Canada so for me the easiest would be the dealer. But I just reused the old plug and seal. So far so good. Oil filter I got at the dealer I forgot about the plug when I got it.
Old 01-03-2016, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by meob
I'm in Newfoundland Canada so for me the easiest would be the dealer. But I just reused the old plug and seal. So far so good. Oil filter I got at the dealer I forgot about the plug when I got it.
You only need the crush washer for the drain plug. Using twice is not a major issue but might weep a bit. Just don't try to overtighten it to compensate. Crush washers are cheap compared to repairing oil pan threads.
Surprisingly my dealers price on Castrol LL03 oil was better than I can find online. I get it from them at about $7 per quart. Don't forget two 2 1/2 gal bottles of addblue (DEF) I get that from Advance Auto Parts for about $15. per bottle. It is not a bad job at all. Especially compared to a Mk1 TT oil change! :-)
Old 01-03-2016, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by meob
I'm in Newfoundland Canada so for me the easiest would be the dealer. But I just reused the old plug and seal. So far so good. Oil filter I got at the dealer I forgot about the plug when I got it.
Newfoundland? Holy smokes! I go up every March (to "Town") with friends from Halifax, he works for Corby Distillers, and works a deal with Linda at the Inn of Olde for a full night, it's an event for sure.

I guess I can get these parts from the dealer, wondered if there was a preferred online vendor everyone likes to use.


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