DUTCH VanAtlanta

I no longer have the 2010 Q7, and have not yet attacked the 2015.

I don't remember where I got the relay, but it was from someplace quite easy to find. Do a Giggle [sic] search.

cuatrokoop

FYI, some brake controllers cannot use the factory brake signal (at least on early models like my '07). If you find that out to be the case, you can jump the signal to the brake pedal switch. I had to do this with my Hopkins Insight. Otherwise it was very straight forward.

DUTCH VanAtlanta

The Tekonsha P3 works A-OK with the factory installed towing package.

cuatrokoop

There may also be a difference between '07-'09 and '10+ electronics, since they changed the tail lamps from incan to LED. I am fairly certain that people had issues on early cars with various Tekonsha controllers. I was just giving a heads up that it may not work, and if it doesn't that the brake switch itself works fine. You still use 3 of the 4 wires in the factory harness. Not a huge deal.

DUTCH VanAtlanta

Here you go.

1st pic shows the panel on the driver's side opened to the fuse blocks.

2nd pic shows the always hot socket (green arrow) and the blue arrow shows the ground point. The fuse socket immediately to the left of the green arrow is also always hot.

3rd pic shows the fuse tap (red arrow) with the right angle mounted 5 amp fuse.

I hope this helps.

goodechild

I just signed up to be able to post this. After being told "sorry, not going to touch that" by both the Audi dealership and 6+ different RV/Trailer places I stumbled across this write up and it was a massive help. I have a 2007 Q7 - Between this post and the two attached documents I was able to work my way though this process. I will say that on the 2007 and a Tekonsha P3 you MUST use a relay. If you try to use the provided Brake Signal cable in the 4 wire connector, the voltage jumps around like crazy and it will be unusable. I pulled power off of the fuse box to a relay, and used the screw holding the fuse box in place as the ground - exactly like the picture above, and as advised in the attached documents. Worked like a charm. My buy list is as follows:

From Audi:
- 7-way connection block (for installation by the hitch)- $70
- Wire harness housing as described by OP(1) - ~$8
- Wires as described by OP (2 and cut them in half) - ~$15 each

From Autozone:
- Black and red wire - 16 gauge, smallest amount was 30ft (~$7 each)
- Butt Connectors - blue for 16 Ga wire - ~$3
- Female crimp-on quick disconnects (Spade connectors) - Blue, medium size, for 16 ga wire - ~$3
- Insulated Ring Terminal - Blue - ~$3
- 5 AMP fuses - ~$6
- Fuse Tap - ~$5
- 4 prong 40 AMP 12V normally open relay - ~$20
- Shrink tubing - ~4

From Amazon:
- Tekonsha P3 - ~$145
- Hitch and ball - ~$26

Already had:
- Crimps
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Cable management spiral cut tube

I ended up mounting the P3 on the right hand side of the steering wheel, right below the break in the dash. Have had no issues with knee-knock, but I am tall, and have the seat pushed back pretty far anyway.

I am hoping that the next "me" will stumble across this and be able to accomplish what they need in one post.

TA


Tip 2 Volkswagen Touareg Porsche Cayenne.pdf

TB0021 Installing Electric Brake.pdf

goodechild

I should point out that I still used the Brake Signal Cable in the 4-wire connector, I just placed the relay between the Brake signal cable on the pigtail that I made from Audi parts, and the Brake signal cable on the pigtail provided by tekonsha, as advised in the document that I attached above.

cuatrokoop

Amazon also carries the 7-way trailer socket for MUCH less than $70 from the stealership. I think I paid about $15 for mine. It's a Pollak 11-893P.

goodechild

Nice to know, thanks. The next thing that I ran into is that the guy I am renting from has a tekonsha trailer emulator, and when he plugged it in, it started acting erratic. Apparently this will happen withiut an adapter cable. The one from Audi/VW is part number zVW-808-004. Unfortunately it is now obsolete and damn near impossible to find. Curt has one now, part number C57003 that does the same thing. It's a 7 way to 7 way for LED lights. Basically they add resistance in the cable to make up for the lack of draw from LED lights. I have ordered it and will update when it comes in.

cuatrokoop

I need to order one of those also, I had found a current Audi 7 to 7 adapter but just hadn't ordered it yet. Same thing as the Curt piece.