Help! Changed fuel filter after gas smell, now no power to fuel filter connector
05-25-2015, 08:25 AM
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Help! Changed fuel filter after gas smell, now no power to fuel filter connector
Hello from the noob. I have a 2008 Q7 4.2 with 75,000 miles. A month ago We started smelling gas in the garage. The truck runs great, but we took it to the local Audi dealer. After three days the tech found a pin hole in the fuel filter causing the smell. The dealer quoted $787.15 for the new part and install. The tech "informed" me that this was a pretty easy DIY fix if you were handy with cars. So long story short, I found a used filter online, changed the filter, and the truck ran smooth for bout 30 secs then died. I can hear the left pump running in the tank when I turn the key but nothing from the filter. I tested the 4 prong connector for current on the fuel filter. . . Nothing. The two local dealers are baffled but very helpful and curious. Sorry for the long thread, but I'm almost two weeks in and Indy Mechs are scared of this Audi. I'm thinking of throwing in the towel. I hope I explained enough. Thanx in advance!
05-25-2015, 01:38 PM
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Thanks for the response. Yup, IDK if taking out the relays means much, but I checked the fuses and everything is in tact. I disconnected and re connected the relays. I can hear things whirring around but my battery needs to be jumped so it does'nt die. should I keep trying to prime?
05-25-2015, 09:45 PM
#5
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You quoted a used fuel filter?
My opinion as a tech you never buy a used fuel part. The fuel system in the Q7 under the ECM computers is very sensitive. You do not know the conductions inside a used fuel filter. You aways buy new.
Now to your problem/
1. did you prime the system before you start?
2. did you up dated the computer (VAG) that you installed a fuel filter?
If you did not bleed the system then what the ECM did before any air locking the motor is shut down the power to the fuel pump.
By the ECM doing this also throw a code in the computer. Need to check codes before doing anything else. The more you do the more codes will come up.
The 30 sec then shutting down is the fuel that was all ready inside your rails not from the fuel system in your tank.
My opinion as a tech you never buy a used fuel part. The fuel system in the Q7 under the ECM computers is very sensitive. You do not know the conductions inside a used fuel filter. You aways buy new.
Now to your problem/
1. did you prime the system before you start?
2. did you up dated the computer (VAG) that you installed a fuel filter?
If you did not bleed the system then what the ECM did before any air locking the motor is shut down the power to the fuel pump.
By the ECM doing this also throw a code in the computer. Need to check codes before doing anything else. The more you do the more codes will come up.
The 30 sec then shutting down is the fuel that was all ready inside your rails not from the fuel system in your tank.
Last edited by smith2010Q7; 05-25-2015 at 09:48 PM.
05-26-2015, 03:37 PM
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To the Techs defence, he and highly recommended the fuel filter new from them. But I needed my truck asap. My criteria was cost, tested fast ship garunteed return, I bought a used one online. I thought I did my homework but Im clearly humbled with this one.
As for your questions
1. I didn't, I reconnected the hoses and turned the half way a few times.
2. I didn't use a VAG (I don't have one yet).
Do you mean the ECM shut the fuel filter shut down? Because I can still hear "whizzing" on the left side when I open the drivers door. I can assume that thats the actual pump running for a second or two. The ECM shutting things down makes alot of sense now.
So far no "Check Engine" light or codes thrown. The traction control and EPC warning light is on though.
I'm hoping for the best now. I have an Audi tech guy who lives in the area who offred to help me out. He's reliable but out for the week. Anything else I can do or say so I can limp this thing and my pride to the dealer?
Thanx man!
As for your questions
1. I didn't, I reconnected the hoses and turned the half way a few times.
2. I didn't use a VAG (I don't have one yet).
Do you mean the ECM shut the fuel filter shut down? Because I can still hear "whizzing" on the left side when I open the drivers door. I can assume that thats the actual pump running for a second or two. The ECM shutting things down makes alot of sense now.
So far no "Check Engine" light or codes thrown. The traction control and EPC warning light is on though.
I'm hoping for the best now. I have an Audi tech guy who lives in the area who offred to help me out. He's reliable but out for the week. Anything else I can do or say so I can limp this thing and my pride to the dealer?
Thanx man!
05-26-2015, 10:23 PM
#7
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Nothing else, Thanks for the update.
By reading the codes it will explain what is going on. Sometimes codes do not throw the CEL light.
I understand on the route you have taken, I know parts can hurt.
What your tech will do is check codes 1st, then check fuel pressure, then maybe have to replace the used part that was put in cause it was not working correctly. The seller knows it has no warranty, cause it was used.
go luck I hope it is just a broken wire to the harness, it is kind of tight in the area.
By reading the codes it will explain what is going on. Sometimes codes do not throw the CEL light.
I understand on the route you have taken, I know parts can hurt.
What your tech will do is check codes 1st, then check fuel pressure, then maybe have to replace the used part that was put in cause it was not working correctly. The seller knows it has no warranty, cause it was used.
go luck I hope it is just a broken wire to the harness, it is kind of tight in the area.
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05-27-2015, 09:20 AM
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Nothing else, Thanks for the update.
By reading the codes it will explain what is going on. Sometimes codes do not throw the CEL light.
I understand on the route you have taken, I know parts can hurt.
What your tech will do is check codes 1st, then check fuel pressure, then maybe have to replace the used part that was put in cause it was not working correctly. The seller knows it has no warranty, cause it was used.
go luck I hope it is just a broken wire to the harness, it is kind of tight in the area.
By reading the codes it will explain what is going on. Sometimes codes do not throw the CEL light.
I understand on the route you have taken, I know parts can hurt.
What your tech will do is check codes 1st, then check fuel pressure, then maybe have to replace the used part that was put in cause it was not working correctly. The seller knows it has no warranty, cause it was used.
go luck I hope it is just a broken wire to the harness, it is kind of tight in the area.
06-06-2015, 07:11 PM
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Hey Audiworld family, I've finally got my truck running!! I found a guy on line in my area who had a Vag-Com/VCDS computer to come out to the house and run a complete check on the system and prime the pumps for $60. No ominous codes detected, just junk codes from low voltages because of the dead battery. I saw there was fuel getting to the engine but very low pressure. Turns out, all of the fuel was in the left tank and without realizing it, the right tank was bone dry. I assumed I messed up the electric pump. So, I got a brand new one with the filter and replaced the both. I filled the right side with 3 gals of gas, turned the key and got a nice rush of fuel through the lines that goes to the filter. I connected the lines, turned the ignition to the on position a few times, then the ol girl started right up. I let the truck run for about 15 mins then started it again. Then, I hit the streets and highway for about 30 miles without a problem. I won't button her up for a few more days, but I feel great just to have her back. Shes off to the dealer for a checkup this week.
What I've learned:
Anyone with the "out of nowhere" gas smell that mysteriously goes away after a few mins, its 98% a pinhole in the dome of your fuel filter. It's fuel under pressure and fills the top of the filter flange while the fuel pressure decreases after about 10 mins.
1. Go to the dealer. Insist that they check fuel filter housing 1st (saves time. Get to the dealer ASAP). Give about a week and expect to pay $800.00 with loaner car included. maybe cheaper if you're lucky.
2. If you absolutely have to (the warranty ended,low dough etc.), keep it simple. Take out both rear seats. Both, not just the left, both. You should have low fuel in the tanks but just in case you have to trouble shoot, that parts done. Let the fuel pressure decrease(15-20mins), dry off any fuel and get yourself some JB Weld Marine because it's gas resistant (I tested the old filter and it held up. But do so at your own risk). Follow the direction on the package, apply and DO NOTHING MORE FOR 15 HOURS. This allows the epoxy to cure.
3. Like smith2010Q7 said in this tread, that run for only 30 secs is the fuel already in the system. You can avoid having my issues by not opening your filter at all. Patching the hole is only if you car was running fine before you smelled fuel.
4. Please note that If you open your fuel tanks yourself, YOU, ARE ON YOUR OWN! No shop (or dealer) will want the headache of fixing your handy work. So don't take it personal.
5. Don't waste your time and money on 2nd hand parts like on ebay (you just don't know what you're getting) there's no refunds! There are authorized online merchants that sell brand new http://www.parts.audiusa.com/www.aut....ecstuning.com.
6. As for tools, you'll need a triple square bit set with M-10 and M-12 for the rear seat bolts. I got mine for Northern Tools, $30!. A good socket set. getting the electrical connector is a pain to remove and will crack. To remove the fuel line from the filter housing you'll need curved-in fuel line clamp removal pliers from Harbor Freight for $13. Avoid having to remove anything and just patch with the JB Weld.
I hope I covered most of the important bits and you find this helpful. Good luck!
Please help out by adding helpful and constructive comments and critiques Please bump if at all possible.
Thanx!
What I've learned:
Anyone with the "out of nowhere" gas smell that mysteriously goes away after a few mins, its 98% a pinhole in the dome of your fuel filter. It's fuel under pressure and fills the top of the filter flange while the fuel pressure decreases after about 10 mins.
1. Go to the dealer. Insist that they check fuel filter housing 1st (saves time. Get to the dealer ASAP). Give about a week and expect to pay $800.00 with loaner car included. maybe cheaper if you're lucky.
2. If you absolutely have to (the warranty ended,low dough etc.), keep it simple. Take out both rear seats. Both, not just the left, both. You should have low fuel in the tanks but just in case you have to trouble shoot, that parts done. Let the fuel pressure decrease(15-20mins), dry off any fuel and get yourself some JB Weld Marine because it's gas resistant (I tested the old filter and it held up. But do so at your own risk). Follow the direction on the package, apply and DO NOTHING MORE FOR 15 HOURS. This allows the epoxy to cure.
3. Like smith2010Q7 said in this tread, that run for only 30 secs is the fuel already in the system. You can avoid having my issues by not opening your filter at all. Patching the hole is only if you car was running fine before you smelled fuel.
4. Please note that If you open your fuel tanks yourself, YOU, ARE ON YOUR OWN! No shop (or dealer) will want the headache of fixing your handy work. So don't take it personal.
5. Don't waste your time and money on 2nd hand parts like on ebay (you just don't know what you're getting) there's no refunds! There are authorized online merchants that sell brand new http://www.parts.audiusa.com/www.aut....ecstuning.com.
6. As for tools, you'll need a triple square bit set with M-10 and M-12 for the rear seat bolts. I got mine for Northern Tools, $30!. A good socket set. getting the electrical connector is a pain to remove and will crack. To remove the fuel line from the filter housing you'll need curved-in fuel line clamp removal pliers from Harbor Freight for $13. Avoid having to remove anything and just patch with the JB Weld.
I hope I covered most of the important bits and you find this helpful. Good luck!
Please help out by adding helpful and constructive comments and critiques Please bump if at all possible.
Thanx!
Last edited by Ceeblurry498; 06-06-2015 at 07:16 PM.
06-06-2015, 08:41 PM
#10
AudiWorld Member
That is good news; I am glad everything work out in the end. I can't count how many times I have learn my lesson when working on Auto's. The next filter change should be a simple fix now. Looks like your next investment is a VAG to proper way to prime your pump.
Good luck in the future
Good luck in the future
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