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Sounds like a batery problem. at 8 years it's time to replace the battery if you haven't already done. But it could be the starter itself wearing out. Good luck. Keep us posted on your findings.
I didn't know about this App. Thanks a lot, I think that is the next step.
I have no idea, I've only owned the car for 5k miles, and haven't been done in my time.
What could be the relation to the engine not cranking?
DIESEL ENGINES - LACK OF POWER AND HARD STARTING
These are signs that not enough fuel is getting through to the engine to provide the required power from combustion. This indicates a partial blockage of the fuel system. The most likely place for a blockage is at the main fuel filter, situated on the fuel line between the fuel tank and the engine. The fuel filter is a bowl containing a disposable cartridge made of corrugated paper designed to remove dirt particles greater than 10 micron in diameter. Some filters will also remove water which is collected in a trap and must be drained at regular intervals.
The quickest way to resolve the problem is to get a sample of the fuel from the fuel tank before the filter in a clean glass jar and look at it in a good light. If the fuel is clear and bright then changing the fuel filter should fix the problem. If the fuel is hazy or has particles floating in it, it will block filters and it should be replaced before the filter is changed.
COLD START SOLVED - Hi there, i had the same problem with cold starting where first thing in the morning it would take a good 10 - 15 seconds of cranking before it would fire. There would be a hell of a lot of smoke each time which was a little embarrassing. Replaced the injectors and glow plugs with no change. I was then about to change the glow plug relay (as there turned out to be no power to the glow plugs when the key was switched each time) when disaster struck. I was returning from a long distance trip when the car 'overheated' and went into limp mode. Once i returned home, i went through and found that the engine hadn't actually overheated and that the temp sensor on the engine side (not radiator - yes it has two) was sending an incorrect signal. Once replaced I found that the car started immediately each morning and that the gauge now reads correctly. in fact the whole car seems to drive incredibly well after that with no low - mid speed flat spot - slow gear change that it use to have.
What was happening was the sendor was telling the vehicle that it was between 30 - 50 degrees each time, meaning that the computer wouldn't fire the glow plugs, as it was warm enough to fire the engine. anything below 30 degrees and the relay is activated to ignite the glow plugs
Easy to change, it sits behind (and below ) the top left intake pipe and is removed by a small clip. Cost me $50 and 15 mins time with most of that digging behind the engine to find it.
Hope that helps if you are having any of these issues
COLD START SOLVED - Hi there, i had the same problem with cold starting where first thing in the morning it would take a good 10 - 15 seconds of cranking before it would fire. There would be a hell of a lot of smoke each time which was a little embarrassing. Replaced the injectors and glow plugs with no change. I was then about to change the glow plug relay (as there turned out to be no power to the glow plugs when the key was switched each time) when disaster struck. I was returning from a long distance trip when the car 'overheated' and went into limp mode. Once i returned home, i went through and found that the engine hadn't actually overheated and that the temp sensor on the engine side (not radiator - yes it has two) was sending an incorrect signal. Once replaced I found that the car started immediately each morning and that the gauge now reads correctly. in fact the whole car seems to drive incredibly well after that with no low - mid speed flat spot - slow gear change that it use to have.
What was happening was the sendor was telling the vehicle that it was between 30 - 50 degrees each time, meaning that the computer wouldn't fire the glow plugs, as it was warm enough to fire the engine. anything below 30 degrees and the relay is activated to ignite the glow plugs
Easy to change, it sits behind (and below ) the top left intake pipe and is removed by a small clip. Cost me $50 and 15 mins time with most of that digging behind the engine to find it.
Hope that helps if you are having any of these issues
COLD START SOLVED - Hi there, i had the same problem with cold starting where first thing in the morning it would take a good 10 - 15 seconds of cranking before it would fire. There would be a hell of a lot of smoke each time which was a little embarrassing. Replaced the injectors and glow plugs with no change. I was then about to change the glow plug relay (as there turned out to be no power to the glow plugs when the key was switched each time) when disaster struck. I was returning from a long distance trip when the car 'overheated' and went into limp mode. Once i returned home, i went through and found that the engine hadn't actually overheated and that the temp sensor on the engine side (not radiator - yes it has two) was sending an incorrect signal. Once replaced I found that the car started immediately each morning and that the gauge now reads correctly. in fact the whole car seems to drive incredibly well after that with no low - mid speed flat spot - slow gear change that it use to have.
What was happening was the sendor was telling the vehicle that it was between 30 - 50 degrees each time, meaning that the computer wouldn't fire the glow plugs, as it was warm enough to fire the engine. anything below 30 degrees and the relay is activated to ignite the glow plugs
Easy to change, it sits behind (and below ) the top left intake pipe and is removed by a small clip. Cost me $50 and 15 mins time with most of that digging behind the engine to find it.
Hope that helps if you are having any of these issues
07-25-2016, 02:53 PM
