Q7 weird starting issue. Is it the battery or Q7?
#1
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Q7 weird starting issue. Is it the battery or Q7?
So I'm on my 3rd battery in a 2 year time period. First battery was what I believe to be the OEM battery that eventually started failing in fall of 2015. I decided to replace it with a duralast gold battery from autozone, I installed it. And it was perfect, just like new for most of 2016. Then the cold weather started hitting in September and the battery started getting weak again (same starting issue on first try, then second it worked fine). I lived with it until the battery died in December 2016 and left me stranded. I was able to get a new battery under Autozone's 3 year battery warranty. I replaced it again and now it's January and the car is doing the same thing. When I go to start it, I push the button, the engine cranks just a little and then stops. So I have to push the stop button and then push the start button again. It always starts the second time. My MMI system also doesn't come on immediatlly when the battery is like this.
Has anyone experienced the issue of their Q7 not starting on the first push of the button? I'm trying to figure out if this is an issue with the Q7 itself or the battery. I never recoded my battery because I don't have VCDS.
Has anyone experienced the issue of their Q7 not starting on the first push of the button? I'm trying to figure out if this is an issue with the Q7 itself or the battery. I never recoded my battery because I don't have VCDS.
#2
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The Q7 charges the battery more aggressively if its older and less so if it's newer. Since you didn't recode the battery management module, it must think the battery is much older than it actually is. Therefore, it trying to charge it more aggressively. I think this is what's killing your newest battery.
#3
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The Q7 charges the battery more aggressively if its older and less so if it's newer. Since you didn't recode the battery management module, it must think the battery is much older than it actually is. Therefore, it trying to charge it more aggressively. I think this is what's killing your newest battery.
#5
I Agree with all the posts above but will add that while rare, alternators do fail. You could have that battery charged and tested to see if it is really bad. Also you can test resting voltage vs running voltage. You should see 13- 14 volts when running.
How to Test a Car Alternator
How to Test a Car Alternator
#6
Your issue definitely sounds like it's being caused by the Battery Management system not being reset. The Duralast battery is made in Germany by Varta (the OEM producer). It even has the proper serial number tag on it so that it can be coded in the Battery Management system using VCDS. Here are pics of the Duralast I used in October; it's been perfect so far (and $80 cheaper than dealer cost for an Audi/VW branded one).
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#8
Just FYI, Autonation dealers have their house brand battery available with lifetime warranty including replacement for the original purchaser. The battery is made by Exide, and they have AGM/non-AGM options available. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, you might want to get one of these since it covers the labor including recoding for the battery.
#10
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I Agree with all the posts above but will add that while rare, alternators do fail. You could have that battery charged and tested to see if it is really bad. Also you can test resting voltage vs running voltage. You should see 13- 14 volts when running.
How to Test a Car Alternator
How to Test a Car Alternator