Rear Hatch Won't Close
05-08-2013, 07:30 AM
#21
AudiWorld Member
mines ok now........just got te dreadfull 'flicking' everytime it opens,tried positioning the latch,dont help.
05-08-2013, 01:09 PM
#22
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Happened on my MY08 Q7. Reading posts on how to fix this in the forum, tried WD40 on both latch and strike plate, tried resetting the height as well, but no luck. I finally found out that on mine, there was a spring that pulls the strike bar up when you the trunk is opened that broke at the hooks. Without the spring in place, the strike will not be positioned properly for the latch to grab hold, which causes the rear hatch to spring back up. I could eventually get the trunk to close by the fourth try but was a pain. I managed to repair the spring by bending the end to form a hook, this made it shorter than stock but was the best solution (this size spring was hard to find) Hoping this will hold for a while. Mounted the spring back and is good as new.
Hope above will help someone else.
Hope above will help someone else.
01-02-2014, 07:41 PM
#23
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Thanks ngoha,
On my '08 Q7, I had the exact same issue. The loop of the spring broke. I fashioned a new end on the end of the old spring and it's good as new.
Thanks so much!
On my '08 Q7, I had the exact same issue. The loop of the spring broke. I fashioned a new end on the end of the old spring and it's good as new.
Thanks so much!
01-05-2014, 10:07 AM
#24
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Seems a lot of folks have been having this problem. I think I just fixed mine, so I wanted to add some info to this thread.
So about 6 months ago my trunk latch started refusing to close. I removed the striker plate/motor mechanism, cleaned it out and lubed it as suggested in this thread. Then the trunk would close but then would pop back up about an inch because the helper motor wasn't pulling it all the way closed. It would latch, but not pull all the way in to seal. You couldn't pull it back open, but it definitely wasn't closed tight. If you gave the license plate a good shove, the motor would engage and the pull the trunk fully closed.
Occasionally, the car would not register the trunk as closed and this would drain the battery dead.
I ordered a new striker plate motor. It seems Audi updated the part number a few times. My original was 4F9-827-383 B. The new model is 4F9-827-838 E. There are a few slight differences. On the back of the part that plugs into the harness, the puller motor is now exposed and removable (hopefully serviceable). The new part was about $250 shipped.
Install is simple. Pull out the trunk cover and tray. On the inside of the trunk (backside of bumper) there are four T-25 Torx bolts holding down the silver trim piece that runs the length of the trunk. Pull this up. There are a few spring clips that will give tension and then pull out (but be careful because there is a wire harness plugged into it). No need to unclip the harness. Set the trim piece aside. Two 13mm bolts hold down the striker mechanism. Unclip the harness plugged into the striker mechanism. Install is reverse.
The other thing I noticed is that the spring everyone in this post was talking about had definitely broken and was missing. I've indicated in red where the spring should have been located on the old part.
The new part works great and the trunk closes like a dream. Hopefully this also solves my intermittent battery drain issue. I believe the micro-switch wasn't registering the trunk as closed and was keeping accessory power on, so I think this should do it.
The old motor probably works fine aside from the missing spring, so if anyone wants it, it's yours for cost of boxing and shipping (call it $30). Just e-mail me at mpclibmer AT AOL DOTCOM
So about 6 months ago my trunk latch started refusing to close. I removed the striker plate/motor mechanism, cleaned it out and lubed it as suggested in this thread. Then the trunk would close but then would pop back up about an inch because the helper motor wasn't pulling it all the way closed. It would latch, but not pull all the way in to seal. You couldn't pull it back open, but it definitely wasn't closed tight. If you gave the license plate a good shove, the motor would engage and the pull the trunk fully closed.
Occasionally, the car would not register the trunk as closed and this would drain the battery dead.
I ordered a new striker plate motor. It seems Audi updated the part number a few times. My original was 4F9-827-383 B. The new model is 4F9-827-838 E. There are a few slight differences. On the back of the part that plugs into the harness, the puller motor is now exposed and removable (hopefully serviceable). The new part was about $250 shipped.
Install is simple. Pull out the trunk cover and tray. On the inside of the trunk (backside of bumper) there are four T-25 Torx bolts holding down the silver trim piece that runs the length of the trunk. Pull this up. There are a few spring clips that will give tension and then pull out (but be careful because there is a wire harness plugged into it). No need to unclip the harness. Set the trim piece aside. Two 13mm bolts hold down the striker mechanism. Unclip the harness plugged into the striker mechanism. Install is reverse.
The other thing I noticed is that the spring everyone in this post was talking about had definitely broken and was missing. I've indicated in red where the spring should have been located on the old part.
The new part works great and the trunk closes like a dream. Hopefully this also solves my intermittent battery drain issue. I believe the micro-switch wasn't registering the trunk as closed and was keeping accessory power on, so I think this should do it.
The old motor probably works fine aside from the missing spring, so if anyone wants it, it's yours for cost of boxing and shipping (call it $30). Just e-mail me at mpclibmer AT AOL DOTCOM
05-06-2014, 07:42 PM
#25
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Thanks to everyone who posted previously in this thread. My 2007 Q7 rear hatch stopped latching completely. Now that I've fixed the problem, I think I know what was happening. Due to a broken spring in the helper mechanism attached to the bumper, the latching post wasn't extending upward as far as it should (the spring pulls the post up and toward the hatch). So when the hatch closed, I don't think the latch on the door was effectively grasping the post on the bumper. The primary motor would close the door and I could hear the helper motor trying to retract the post to pull the hatch tight, but the door wouldn't close all the way.
Here is what I saw when I removed the cargo tray and looked at the helper mechanism (notice the spring clearly out of place):
So here is the fix. I was able to salvage the existing spring and didn't need to purchase anything.
Step 1: Remove the entire long chrome trim piece lining the back of the hatch area. First, remove the four Torx screws facing the spare tire. Then pull upward on the trim until it pulls free. Lift carefully and pull up from one side to the other to avoid breaking the tabs that fasten it down or pulling it too far away from the bumper which could break the wiring harness connected to it. I broke one tab, but it still went back together OK. Pull the chrome trim away from the bumper, but don't bother disconnecting the wire. I left the weatherstripping in place on the bumper.
Here is what I saw with the chrome trim removed. Notice the spring is not visible where it should be located (attached to the small black hook near the left-hand silver screw head) and the post is not fully extended toward the hatch.
Step 2: Remove the helper motor assembly. Before loosening and removing the two large silver screws holding it in place (they look like 13mm bolt heads), make a note of the position of the helper motor assembly on the bumper. Mark it with tape so you know where to position it during reassembly. It can be adjusted up or down to loosen or tighten the door's final closed position. These two silver screws don't have nuts, so you can pull them out completely.
Step 3: Retrieve the broken spring if possible. The very end of my spring had broken off.
Step 4: Clean out the gunk that may be jamming up the mechanism. I sprayed WD40 from various angles and worked the post up and down until it moved more freely.
Step 5: Fix the spring and reattach. I used a utility knife to split off two coils from the end of the spring and needle nose pliers to bend these coils up. Reattach the spring as shown.
Fixed spring:
Reattached spring:
Step 6: Reinstall the helper mechanism and replace the trim. Before pushing the trim down into place, use your fingers to pull the edge of the weatherstripping over the lip of the chrome trim. This takes a few minutes. Push the chrome trim down into place and install the Torx screws.
Here is what I saw when I removed the cargo tray and looked at the helper mechanism (notice the spring clearly out of place):
So here is the fix. I was able to salvage the existing spring and didn't need to purchase anything.
Step 1: Remove the entire long chrome trim piece lining the back of the hatch area. First, remove the four Torx screws facing the spare tire. Then pull upward on the trim until it pulls free. Lift carefully and pull up from one side to the other to avoid breaking the tabs that fasten it down or pulling it too far away from the bumper which could break the wiring harness connected to it. I broke one tab, but it still went back together OK. Pull the chrome trim away from the bumper, but don't bother disconnecting the wire. I left the weatherstripping in place on the bumper.
Here is what I saw with the chrome trim removed. Notice the spring is not visible where it should be located (attached to the small black hook near the left-hand silver screw head) and the post is not fully extended toward the hatch.
Step 2: Remove the helper motor assembly. Before loosening and removing the two large silver screws holding it in place (they look like 13mm bolt heads), make a note of the position of the helper motor assembly on the bumper. Mark it with tape so you know where to position it during reassembly. It can be adjusted up or down to loosen or tighten the door's final closed position. These two silver screws don't have nuts, so you can pull them out completely.
Step 3: Retrieve the broken spring if possible. The very end of my spring had broken off.
Step 4: Clean out the gunk that may be jamming up the mechanism. I sprayed WD40 from various angles and worked the post up and down until it moved more freely.
Step 5: Fix the spring and reattach. I used a utility knife to split off two coils from the end of the spring and needle nose pliers to bend these coils up. Reattach the spring as shown.
Fixed spring:
Reattached spring:
Step 6: Reinstall the helper mechanism and replace the trim. Before pushing the trim down into place, use your fingers to pull the edge of the weatherstripping over the lip of the chrome trim. This takes a few minutes. Push the chrome trim down into place and install the Torx screws.
Last edited by Burke; 05-07-2014 at 05:47 AM.
06-25-2014, 02:53 PM
#26
Part 4F9-827-838 E
Seems a lot of folks have been having this problem. I think I just fixed mine, so I wanted to add some info to this thread.
So about 6 months ago my trunk latch started refusing to close. I removed the striker plate/motor mechanism, cleaned it out and lubed it as suggested in this thread. Then the trunk would close but then would pop back up about an inch because the helper motor wasn't pulling it all the way closed. It would latch, but not pull all the way in to seal. You couldn't pull it back open, but it definitely wasn't closed tight. If you gave the license plate a good shove, the motor would engage and the pull the trunk fully closed.
Occasionally, the car would not register the trunk as closed and this would drain the battery dead.
I ordered a new striker plate motor. It seems Audi updated the part number a few times. My original was 4F9-827-383 B. The new model is 4F9-827-838 E. There are a few slight differences. On the back of the part that plugs into the harness, the puller motor is now exposed and removable (hopefully serviceable). The new part was about $250 shipped.
Install is simple. Pull out the trunk cover and tray. On the inside of the trunk (backside of bumper) there are four T-25 Torx bolts holding down the silver trim piece that runs the length of the trunk. Pull this up. There are a few spring clips that will give tension and then pull out (but be careful because there is a wire harness plugged into it). No need to unclip the harness. Set the trim piece aside. Two 13mm bolts hold down the striker mechanism. Unclip the harness plugged into the striker mechanism. Install is reverse.
The other thing I noticed is that the spring everyone in this post was talking about had definitely broken and was missing. I've indicated in red where the spring should have been located on the old part.
The new part works great and the trunk closes like a dream. Hopefully this also solves my intermittent battery drain issue. I believe the micro-switch wasn't registering the trunk as closed and was keeping accessory power on, so I think this should do it.
The old motor probably works fine aside from the missing spring, so if anyone wants it, it's yours for cost of boxing and shipping (call it $30). Just e-mail me at mpclibmer AT AOL DOTCOM
So about 6 months ago my trunk latch started refusing to close. I removed the striker plate/motor mechanism, cleaned it out and lubed it as suggested in this thread. Then the trunk would close but then would pop back up about an inch because the helper motor wasn't pulling it all the way closed. It would latch, but not pull all the way in to seal. You couldn't pull it back open, but it definitely wasn't closed tight. If you gave the license plate a good shove, the motor would engage and the pull the trunk fully closed.
Occasionally, the car would not register the trunk as closed and this would drain the battery dead.
I ordered a new striker plate motor. It seems Audi updated the part number a few times. My original was 4F9-827-383 B. The new model is 4F9-827-838 E. There are a few slight differences. On the back of the part that plugs into the harness, the puller motor is now exposed and removable (hopefully serviceable). The new part was about $250 shipped.
Install is simple. Pull out the trunk cover and tray. On the inside of the trunk (backside of bumper) there are four T-25 Torx bolts holding down the silver trim piece that runs the length of the trunk. Pull this up. There are a few spring clips that will give tension and then pull out (but be careful because there is a wire harness plugged into it). No need to unclip the harness. Set the trim piece aside. Two 13mm bolts hold down the striker mechanism. Unclip the harness plugged into the striker mechanism. Install is reverse.
The other thing I noticed is that the spring everyone in this post was talking about had definitely broken and was missing. I've indicated in red where the spring should have been located on the old part.
The new part works great and the trunk closes like a dream. Hopefully this also solves my intermittent battery drain issue. I believe the micro-switch wasn't registering the trunk as closed and was keeping accessory power on, so I think this should do it.
The old motor probably works fine aside from the missing spring, so if anyone wants it, it's yours for cost of boxing and shipping (call it $30). Just e-mail me at mpclibmer AT AOL DOTCOM
06-25-2014, 05:37 PM
#27
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01-29-2015, 06:06 AM
#28
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Mine just started to do this over the weekend. I thought the locking-mechanism was frozen due to the cold weather and the recent snow storm.
Just cleaned and lubed the parts inside the garage, the hatch still pops back up 6-12". Now it is a safety issue with my taillights/directionals are not working (since it is not closed properly).
Bringing the Q to the shop this afternoon, wish me luck!!!
Just cleaned and lubed the parts inside the garage, the hatch still pops back up 6-12". Now it is a safety issue with my taillights/directionals are not working (since it is not closed properly).
Bringing the Q to the shop this afternoon, wish me luck!!!
01-29-2015, 06:49 AM
#29
AudiWorld Senior Member
Chigger, look at my post from last week, 30 min to fix tops!
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...trunk-2877974/
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...trunk-2877974/
Last edited by B490MTL; 01-29-2015 at 07:01 AM.
01-29-2015, 07:38 AM
#30
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Chigger, look at my post from last week, 30 min to fix tops!
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...trunk-2877974/
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...trunk-2877974/
I am bringing it to a reputable VW/Audi place, and I will bring this information with me. Thanks again!
