DIY Spark Plugs - Spark Plug Replacement Write Up (for noobs like me)
06-01-2008, 03:41 PM
#21
Great write up... additonal tip within...
Just finished installation.... great write up... I found a couple of things; a 1/4" socket w/ the T25 does fit easier- but I just saw Magoo state that.... also, spend the additional two minutes to remove the air box cover; it allows more room for the back one on passenger side.. also - make sure to cluan out the air box; I had a ton of crap in mine...
04-12-2010, 03:19 AM
#23
Great Guide!
Thanks for the tips and great guide! I managed to replace all plugs plus installed a K&N OEM replacement filter plus cabin air filter in about 4 hours. Removing the air box made things a lot easier. The red/black wiring harness that attaches to the 8 plug packs is a bit frustrating and I managed to beak 3 or 4 of them but fortunately the screw hold thing in place just fine and the car runs perfect so I'm not sweating it. I wish Audi make a less breakable method of attaching these with a more durable clip but no biggie. Also there is an intake pre-filter (screener) that I pulled out (maybe will replace) that was totally clogged. It's located at the top of the air box where the 2 piece flat intake snorkel from the front attaches to. I would suggest cleaning this every oil change or perhaps just removing it. I will call the dealer about replacing the screener but I couldn't find it online. I did hit some snags so hopefully these tips will help noobs like me:
1. use a bit of lube on the spark plug socket. I used a small amount of spark plug boot lube that I applied using a Q-tip to the inside of the socket because wh3en installing the 4th plug I actually left the rubber liner attached to the plug inside the motor! I had to modify a pair of medial tweezers to dig into the rubber and extract the rubber boot!
2. use a T25 torx bit loaded into an offset bit driver. Sears sells one that is ratcheting and takes any 1/4 inch drive bit.
3. use the proper quality tools: locking extensions (as opposed to cheaper non-locking that can leave your socket attache tot he plug inside your motor), quality/calibrated torque wrench, etc. Go buy them it you need to. The cost of tools is easily justified when you look at what you are saving over bringing the car to a local shop (or dealer) for repair (my Audi dealer wanted $1700 for a 55k 'tune up' that was just oil change, plugs and air filters). Good tools will last a lifetime!
1. use a bit of lube on the spark plug socket. I used a small amount of spark plug boot lube that I applied using a Q-tip to the inside of the socket because wh3en installing the 4th plug I actually left the rubber liner attached to the plug inside the motor! I had to modify a pair of medial tweezers to dig into the rubber and extract the rubber boot!
2. use a T25 torx bit loaded into an offset bit driver. Sears sells one that is ratcheting and takes any 1/4 inch drive bit.
3. use the proper quality tools: locking extensions (as opposed to cheaper non-locking that can leave your socket attache tot he plug inside your motor), quality/calibrated torque wrench, etc. Go buy them it you need to. The cost of tools is easily justified when you look at what you are saving over bringing the car to a local shop (or dealer) for repair (my Audi dealer wanted $1700 for a 55k 'tune up' that was just oil change, plugs and air filters). Good tools will last a lifetime!
04-13-2010, 08:59 AM
#24
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$460 for changing plugs?!?
Another small tip from the old guys ... dip your finger in a bottle of motor oil and rub it on the threads of the new plug. It'll help you feel when you're putting too much torque against a cross threaded plug. Also helps in case you've got some grit in the threads (old motors, not really applicable here).
Another old-school tip (do NOT use this on spark plugs!) if you've got a bolt/screw that seems to be taking too much torque to go in, rub the threads on a bar of soap. Lubes the threads but acts as a tiny little bit of lock-tite once it's in.
Another small tip from the old guys ... dip your finger in a bottle of motor oil and rub it on the threads of the new plug. It'll help you feel when you're putting too much torque against a cross threaded plug. Also helps in case you've got some grit in the threads (old motors, not really applicable here).
Another old-school tip (do NOT use this on spark plugs!) if you've got a bolt/screw that seems to be taking too much torque to go in, rub the threads on a bar of soap. Lubes the threads but acts as a tiny little bit of lock-tite once it's in.
05-07-2010, 05:25 AM
#25
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the most greatest write up ever.. talk about clear and direct. Pics are great i used this write up to change the plugs on my a8 4.2l didnt need to remove the coolant tank due to a bigger engine bay.
02-14-2011, 10:29 PM
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Leather crafts Idea on the site
If you wants to any idea on Leather crafts here welcomes to you....
Working with leather is not difficult, and it only requires a few basic tools. The fundamentals are easy to learn. If you can measure accurately, cut carefully, punch holes, and learn to lace or sew, you'll be able to craft good-looking and functional items from a variety of leather hides. Get more Leather Craft Ideas here.
Working with leather is not difficult, and it only requires a few basic tools. The fundamentals are easy to learn. If you can measure accurately, cut carefully, punch holes, and learn to lace or sew, you'll be able to craft good-looking and functional items from a variety of leather hides. Get more Leather Craft Ideas here.
02-21-2011, 01:37 PM
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Inserting & Threading plugs tip
I've always started plugs by using a 15" length of fuel line hose of the right diameter to hold the plug insulator(shove the plug into the hose). This gives enough wiggle when fitting the plug so you can tell if the threads are crossed, and you can easily finger tighten the plug with it, then pull the hose off and finish with the torque wrench. Putting some anti-seize or motor oil on the threads helps.
11-30-2012, 10:42 AM
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How come there are no pictures? Is it because it's an old write up? What about adding something like this to the tech articles?
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/content_elec.shtml#s4
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/content_elec.shtml#s4
01-20-2015, 05:36 AM
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This is a "Noob" Guide to replacing the spark plugs on a B6 S4 (2004-2005.) I define this as a noob guide, because I will probably say some over obvious things (to some.)
Thanks to those of you in the past who have done some write ups (S4for5 & ESFO, et al), I used some of your photos.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/thanks.jpg">
I changed my plugs out last night with about 43,800 miles on my car. Audi recommends changing your plugs after 55K miles and they quoted me $460 to change mine. Forum members, including myself will tell you that you might as well change them after 35-40K miles as it will already make a big improvement (and you have to do it anyway.)
On my way home from work I specifically paid attention to the idle smoothness or shake and the throttle response, for a before and after comparison. I let the car cool for about 3 hours; you may need more or less depending on how long you drove the car. Make sure the engine is somewhat cool to the touch before you begin.
Tools I used: Have a few Phillips screwdrivers and a couple flat blade screwdrivers handy (I don't need to picture these I hope)
Vise-Grip Original Straight Jaw Locking Pliers - 7"
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/10r_lg.jpg">
3/8" in Drive T-25 Torx Bit and socket + a Ratchet that will accommodate a 3/8 drive
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/torx.jpg"> <IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/ratchet.jpg">
3/8" In Drive Locking Extension Set (Need about a 6 and an 8 inch extension.) If you already have extensions that don't lock that is OK
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/extension.jpg">
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (20-100lbs) (need a torque wrench that can do 22lbs)
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/torque.jpg">
3/8" Drive 5/8" Spark Plug Socket (has the rubber inside it)
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/socket.jpg">
Gloves - I used some hardware/automotive Custom Leather Craft gloves from Home Depot... First Step: Removing Induction Runner
Remove the two front screws shown in the picture:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/screws1.jpg">
Then pull the rubber accordion piece off of the front runner piece we just unscrewed, then pull the plastic runner out (towards back of car.)
It should now look like this:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/air.jpg">
Next - Remove the coolant tank screw:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/coolentscrew.jpg">
Next, I unscrewed the two large black screws from the airbox and then pulled it up a little bit, giving another inch or so from the T25 screw on the passenger side:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/airbox.jpg">
Next, Remove this hose from the clip, again, giving more room for the screw below it.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/hose.jpg">
Next Step! Remove all 4 T25 screws, two on each side.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/t25.jpg">
These are going to be very tricky. For 3 of them, I had to use the vise grip to hold the T25 bit (Make sure it is VERY tight, you don't want the bit to fall down the engine bay.) It is going to be very slow moving, sometimes only turning 1/8 of a turn or so each time.. Go slowly, take your time.
Here is a pic:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/vice.jpg">
I would do the drivers side front screw first, as this will be the easiest and you can just use a ratchet. This will give you an idea of how big/long the screw is and how it will come out.
When you get to the other three, slowly loosen with the vise grip/T25 bit combo (if you have a ratchet that fits, then perfect!) Test it occasionally when you think the screw should be getting loose to see if you can turn with your fingers. Once you can start turning with your fingers be very careful and remove without dropping into the engine bay.
Ok so you have removed the screws, now on to the coil packs!
First, unclip all four connectors before you unplug them, as they need to be unplugged at the same time (for the most part).
To unclip, grab a screw driver and lightly push down on the clip, pictured here:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/clip.jpg">
I heard clicking noises, some people don't. DO NOT FORCE IT, or it will snap. It may help to slightly push the plug in while you push down on the clip, and then pull the plug out just a little.
Again, do all 4 clips first, and then try to wiggle all the plugs out together (if you do one side, the other side will be at an angle and wont unplug. They are in snug, so just work at it.
Once the coilpacks are out:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/coilout.jpg">
You pull out each plug, just dig your fingers under them and pull slowly but hard, don't yank it.
I placed each plug in order so I knew where it went back, I don't know if it is necessary I just did it as a precaution.
REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS
Grab your 5/8" spark plug socket, and put it at the end of your extension/ratchet. Slide the socket into the hole and slowly turn counterclockwise until you feel it drop a little (catch the bolt) and then crank it loose, it should turn 6-10 times. Slowly pull out the socket, and the spark plug should be in the socket (held by the rubber). If it isn't, put it back in and turn it some more. Do this to all 8 and then you are halfway done!
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/noplugs.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/old.jpg">
Grab your torque wrench, set it to 22 lbs. and have it ready.
Place a new spark plug in your spark plug socket attached to your extension (not attached to the wrench or ratchet).
Thanks SirTrixMagoo for the following tip!
"Also, you should always make a habit when installing screws and ESPECIALLY spark-plugs, to seat the item before threading to prevent cross-threading. When installing spark plugs, gently lower the plug down into the hole, the rotate the plug COUNTER-clockwise until you feel the plug "seat", it'll square up and you'll feel it (kinda feels like a click), then without lifting the plug, gently turn clockwise to thread. if you feel resistance, STOP, and start over reseating the plug. This is a sure fire way to prevent cross-threading.... something that would be a VERY expensive mistake with plugs!"
Carefully lower the spark plug into the engine and use hand power to rotate it clockwise, keep rotating until you feel resistance (4-5 turns)... Then connect the torque wrench to the extension and finish the job. The torque wrench will click once when you are at 22lbs, stop when it clicks. PULL THE SOCKET OUT SLOWLY. If you do not have the locking sockets, then make sure you pull slowly so the socket does not come off the extension and get stuck in the engine.
Do this all 8 times. I had to finagle a little to get the rear passenger side one in, had to use an elbow connector...
Once all of the spark plugs are in, just firmly place each plug back into its place. Re-attach the coil packs, CAREFULLY screw in the T25 screws (don't drop them).
Screw the coolent tank screw back in.
Replace the hose on the air box.
Replace the two screws on the air box.
Replace the plastic runner intake piece; screw it in with the two screws.
And you are done!
Thanks to those of you in the past who have done some write ups (S4for5 & ESFO, et al), I used some of your photos.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/thanks.jpg">
I changed my plugs out last night with about 43,800 miles on my car. Audi recommends changing your plugs after 55K miles and they quoted me $460 to change mine. Forum members, including myself will tell you that you might as well change them after 35-40K miles as it will already make a big improvement (and you have to do it anyway.)
On my way home from work I specifically paid attention to the idle smoothness or shake and the throttle response, for a before and after comparison. I let the car cool for about 3 hours; you may need more or less depending on how long you drove the car. Make sure the engine is somewhat cool to the touch before you begin.
Tools I used: Have a few Phillips screwdrivers and a couple flat blade screwdrivers handy (I don't need to picture these I hope)
Vise-Grip Original Straight Jaw Locking Pliers - 7"
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/10r_lg.jpg">
3/8" in Drive T-25 Torx Bit and socket + a Ratchet that will accommodate a 3/8 drive
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/torx.jpg"> <IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/ratchet.jpg">
3/8" In Drive Locking Extension Set (Need about a 6 and an 8 inch extension.) If you already have extensions that don't lock that is OK
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/extension.jpg">
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (20-100lbs) (need a torque wrench that can do 22lbs)
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/torque.jpg">
3/8" Drive 5/8" Spark Plug Socket (has the rubber inside it)
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/socket.jpg">
Gloves - I used some hardware/automotive Custom Leather Craft gloves from Home Depot... First Step: Removing Induction Runner
Remove the two front screws shown in the picture:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/screws1.jpg">
Then pull the rubber accordion piece off of the front runner piece we just unscrewed, then pull the plastic runner out (towards back of car.)
It should now look like this:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/air.jpg">
Next - Remove the coolant tank screw:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/coolentscrew.jpg">
Next, I unscrewed the two large black screws from the airbox and then pulled it up a little bit, giving another inch or so from the T25 screw on the passenger side:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/airbox.jpg">
Next, Remove this hose from the clip, again, giving more room for the screw below it.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/hose.jpg">
Next Step! Remove all 4 T25 screws, two on each side.
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/t25.jpg">
These are going to be very tricky. For 3 of them, I had to use the vise grip to hold the T25 bit (Make sure it is VERY tight, you don't want the bit to fall down the engine bay.) It is going to be very slow moving, sometimes only turning 1/8 of a turn or so each time.. Go slowly, take your time.
Here is a pic:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/vice.jpg">
I would do the drivers side front screw first, as this will be the easiest and you can just use a ratchet. This will give you an idea of how big/long the screw is and how it will come out.
When you get to the other three, slowly loosen with the vise grip/T25 bit combo (if you have a ratchet that fits, then perfect!) Test it occasionally when you think the screw should be getting loose to see if you can turn with your fingers. Once you can start turning with your fingers be very careful and remove without dropping into the engine bay.
Ok so you have removed the screws, now on to the coil packs!
First, unclip all four connectors before you unplug them, as they need to be unplugged at the same time (for the most part).
To unclip, grab a screw driver and lightly push down on the clip, pictured here:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/clip.jpg">
I heard clicking noises, some people don't. DO NOT FORCE IT, or it will snap. It may help to slightly push the plug in while you push down on the clip, and then pull the plug out just a little.
Again, do all 4 clips first, and then try to wiggle all the plugs out together (if you do one side, the other side will be at an angle and wont unplug. They are in snug, so just work at it.
Once the coilpacks are out:
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/coilout.jpg">
You pull out each plug, just dig your fingers under them and pull slowly but hard, don't yank it.
I placed each plug in order so I knew where it went back, I don't know if it is necessary I just did it as a precaution.
REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS
Grab your 5/8" spark plug socket, and put it at the end of your extension/ratchet. Slide the socket into the hole and slowly turn counterclockwise until you feel it drop a little (catch the bolt) and then crank it loose, it should turn 6-10 times. Slowly pull out the socket, and the spark plug should be in the socket (held by the rubber). If it isn't, put it back in and turn it some more. Do this to all 8 and then you are halfway done!
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/noplugs.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://idisk.mac.com/nkivett/Public/aw/writeups/sparkplugs/old.jpg">
Grab your torque wrench, set it to 22 lbs. and have it ready.
Place a new spark plug in your spark plug socket attached to your extension (not attached to the wrench or ratchet).
Thanks SirTrixMagoo for the following tip!
"Also, you should always make a habit when installing screws and ESPECIALLY spark-plugs, to seat the item before threading to prevent cross-threading. When installing spark plugs, gently lower the plug down into the hole, the rotate the plug COUNTER-clockwise until you feel the plug "seat", it'll square up and you'll feel it (kinda feels like a click), then without lifting the plug, gently turn clockwise to thread. if you feel resistance, STOP, and start over reseating the plug. This is a sure fire way to prevent cross-threading.... something that would be a VERY expensive mistake with plugs!"
Carefully lower the spark plug into the engine and use hand power to rotate it clockwise, keep rotating until you feel resistance (4-5 turns)... Then connect the torque wrench to the extension and finish the job. The torque wrench will click once when you are at 22lbs, stop when it clicks. PULL THE SOCKET OUT SLOWLY. If you do not have the locking sockets, then make sure you pull slowly so the socket does not come off the extension and get stuck in the engine.
Do this all 8 times. I had to finagle a little to get the rear passenger side one in, had to use an elbow connector...
Once all of the spark plugs are in, just firmly place each plug back into its place. Re-attach the coil packs, CAREFULLY screw in the T25 screws (don't drop them).
Screw the coolent tank screw back in.
Replace the hose on the air box.
Replace the two screws on the air box.
Replace the plastic runner intake piece; screw it in with the two screws.
And you are done!
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