Bobby Kinstle

Both can be considered equal when the DVC 4 is wires in series.

Bobby Kinstle

When adding your own amp, it does not matter which speaker impedance you use, as long as it matches the amp you chose.

If you are going to do the sub swap and may consider adding your own amp later, then get a DVC4 because it can be wired as 2 ohms when wired in parallel and most add on amps are 2 ohm stable.

jw1977

What about people that don't have the B&O system? What upgrades can be done to the system?

Bobby Kinstle

Sorry I don't know enough about how that system is wired to be of assistance.

jazza08

I have copied this entire guide yesterday and it is fairly easy to do. The sound system still feels oem but with the kick it should have had. It's certainly not for those who want booming bass but it would suit people who classify themselves as a bit of an audiophile.

Only thing I have to add is the original cable will reach if you split it from the truck light it is connected to and I fed it through a small square hole next to one of the screw holes as it was closer and neater.

Thanks to the writer of the guide, much appreciated!

Bobby Kinstle

That's how I did mine. It's a bit of a pain to get it out of that sticky fabric wrap, but certainly ends with a very clean installation.

Glad it worked out for you. The bass will improve in a couple months after break in. Sometimes I still wish for an amp, but otherwise I'm extremely pleased about how it turned out.

jazza08

I couldn't find the JL audio sub new as it was a discontinued model so mine is second hand and I doubt there will be any improvements in bass but honestly I don't think there needs to be, I hate booming bass and this is still very tight whilst offering more kick and seemingly a wider frequency as I can hear some low frequencies that weren't there in the music before! I also have less rattles in the doors/windows which as the bass setting is now 2 clicks lower

Kachunkachunk

I'm having a hard time finding the 10W1v2-8 at all - you got fairly lucky there! It's been replaced by the 10W1V3-2 and 4.
Being a single voicecoil sub, it's not usable in this application, as they're just 2 and 4 ohms respectively and don't have anything to be rewired in series (at least not without needing a bigger another amp and second sub).

Edit: Well... I guess you could just do it anyway, but I'm unsure and haven't mismatched impedance before in my limited experience. Any thoughts?


Could anyone kindly suggest what would be a [better] alternative drop-in? I'm seeing mixed opinions on the Pioneer and Kicker mentioned so far.

I don't really want to take up trunk space, gut the car, or cause any usage complications, but if you think it's so much more worth dropping in your own amp, then I guess you can try to convince me. Sitting around, I have two 10" Alpine Type-R SWR-1042D subs (the previous generation that are 500W RMS each) and a few Alpine amps (PDX 1.1000, 2.150, 4.100) from my previous car. At least my amps are really small! Subs not so much.

I guess the most cost-effective option is to use my PDX 1.1000 and one of my SWR-1042D subs, more as a free-air dealio. Will this just sound crappy, though? I'd be perfectly happy just dropping in something that did the bottom-end better. The B&O has been pretty excellent otherwise.


Edit 2:
Okay, maybe opening up more to installing my PDX 1.1000 somewhere since it's so small. Just still debating what I'm doing about the subwoofer. A small/shallow box, drop-in-mounted like others have (and in such a case, should I be getting a new sub, or not). Decisions, decisions.

gflare

In your opinion: What would be the biggest advantage to adding the amp?

A. To add greater control / pure volume to the bass ?
B. To boost the extreme low end to aid in the balance?
C. Something else?


I can't believe I haven't done this upgrade yet (scared to tweak my stock baby), but I'm learning a lot by lurking on these forums.

Godfather | Jay

Ordered the Lanzar DCTOA10D. It's a DVC (dual voice coil) that can be wired as 8 ohm. It's designed for open-air/free-air/infinite baffle applications.

Lanzar - DCTOA10D - Open Air DVC Distinct Series 10-Inch High Power IB Open Free-Air 4 Ohm Subwoofer DVC, (1 Unit)

Highlights for why I chose it:
- Specified for free-air application
- Low power requirement (120w/240w)
- High sensitivity (90 dB)
- 4.61" mounting depth
- Exact hole pattern of the old JL Audio
- 8.86" cutout diameter (slightly smaller than the old JL Audio) - this was truly the kicker as many subs have a hard time fitting.
- Less than $60 shipped